Well, my default answer is Bob at Black Sheep. The wait list is long (I didn't even ask Bob how long the line was, I just sent a deposit). Bob has reproduced a vintage Borsalino Torino of mine for one of his customers...I sent it in for a new sweat, somebody saw it when he posted on FB and...
IMHO, beaver is generally superior for dress and western hats. We can add many caveats, such as vintage hare and rabbit velours (and I happen to really like my rabbit heathered felt from BSHW), but if we are talking getting a custom hat built in the now, I think you should go beaver.
The...
If it's not in the current catalog it's because it's been discontinued. I'm fairly certain I remember seeing them in one of the spring listings. JJ still has a handful.
When I was at the outlet a few years ago, the Whippet Panamas were far and away the nicest straws they had that day. I've...
When Justin posted originally, he titled the thread "1900's Stetson Catalog." Maybe he knows for sure, but I didn't see a specific date in the scanned pages. It does seem to be from very early in the 20th century.
No. 1 Quality is a felt grade.
It's not clear to me exactly where on the spectrum it fit, but I believe it was on the lower echelon of Stetsons. Check out this page from a reprinted Stetson catalogue that Justin posted a while back:
"The genuine Boss Raw Edge Kettle Finish hats are not made...
I mean, you say 40's, but the subtext here I think Brent had pegged earlier. If the Cavanagh is a style you like, you're looking for a 60's -ish stingy brim. eBay is your friend.
The illustration probably is modeled off a hat more like a Fed or a whippet. The Fed is more or less a Indy hat...
I doubt that Cav is 50's based on the plastic liner top and lack leather sweat, both of which were common in the 60's.
As far as styling, do you want a "40's style" hat? I tend to associate the 40's with the 'classic ' Stetson models like the Whippet, Open Road, and Stratoliner (these are my...
Ha! I figured on someone pointing out the eagle in the Stetson crest.
I know the comment is somewhat facetious, but it does illustrate the point...kitten finish hats were marked with "finish." I can't think of any other hat embossment that would be so ambiguous as "beaver" = "beaver finish."...
Among the current Stetson lineup, 4x is wool or buffalo, 5x I think is a wool/fur blend. I'm not even sure that the 6x is even still marketed as "6x beaver," just "6x." I don't want to know what's in the 3x hats if 4x is buffalo....
Historically, I'm inclined to believe that if a hat was marked...
Stetson Japan seems to be under the impression that the Royal Deluxe line is 10% beaver.
Though I also recall at the time that @Jedwbpm said he didn't know who told them that because he didn't even know, and that he could neither confirm nor deny.
Just personally, I find the "beaver is the...
Good felt should not shrink much. Mostly when we on the lounge talk about shrinkage in hats, we are primarily referring to Akubras. They use a lower quality grade of leather for their sweatbands which is notorious for shrinkage.
Modern felts - which are not felted as densely as in years past -...
I'd be very interested to know his opinion on the excellent quality felt vs the el Presidente. My experience matches with moon, the excellent quality is among the best modern felts. Still no match for vintage, but quite nice indeed.
I think he sources them from Tonak, but I might have just assumed that. I quite like mine and I've actually worn it in plenty of rain to no ill effects.
Awesome! A Stetson San Fran has been on my want list for obvious reasons, but I'm not sure if they were ever marked as such on the sweatbands. Nice example of the mid-century western/fedora hybrid.
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