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  1. jlee562

    Snap brim and rain

    Well, I'm not a hatter, but I can offer some insight. The snap is a function of the flange of the brim. It's a wooden oval with the desired curvature, over which the felt can be steamed to retain the shape. In production this is customarily done with both steam and pressure. You should always...
  2. jlee562

    Ebay Hats: Victories, Defeats, Gripes & Items of Interest

    Just nabbed this 1922 Stetson no. 1 Quality, may or may not be a Park Ranger hat. A little dirty and a few moth tracks, but I mostly wanted it because it's also from Berkeley. Seller says ribbon is intact under the band, so it seems this may be a BOP style... https://www.ebay.com/itm/323399931258
  3. jlee562

    Stingy brims???

    Umm, what? Stiff and soft felts are two delineations of hats (this is clearly illustrated by said catalogue and other sources such as Scientific Hat Finishing). The stiffness being determined by the amount of shellac applied, not the composition of the fur felt itself. 1924 catalogue listing...
  4. jlee562

    Stingy brims???

    Yes, you can see what others wore behind Tom and they are not stingy brim hats. As to what they were called, "fedora" isn't really it either. What we are discussing, are soft felt hats. And those came in a variety of widths. See, for example,this turn of the century Stetson catalog...
  5. jlee562

    Stingy brims???

    Again though, define "the norm." Because this is also 1925: And no, not just Tom Mix. Look at the hats behind him. Nary a stingy brim to be seen.
  6. jlee562

    Brim up or brim down

    I'm brim up about 80% of the time, actually.
  7. jlee562

    Stingy brims???

    I tend to think our modern perceptions of popular hat styles through the decades is something of a caricature. Brim sizes varied through all decades. As far as "stingy" vs "excess," in terms of sun protection , there is nothing "excess" about a 3" brim.
  8. jlee562

    The STETSON WAY, Advertising and ephemera of the Golden Era

    BIN'ed this on ebay the other day, probably my favorite Stetson ad, for one of my favorite Stetson models.
  9. jlee562

    Ebay Hats: Victories, Defeats, Gripes & Items of Interest

    This guy has some interesting dies which were apparently bought out from a former liner manufacturer? I of course, don't have any practical need for this, less I start counterfeiting hats, but it's a cool piece of Stetson ephemera https://www.ebay.com/itm/263890513902
  10. jlee562

    Buying hat blocks--what does one need to know?

    If you're not going to remove the sweatbands, you'll probably have an easier time with a block that is a size under your hat size. Which can also be used for a pork pie: https://www.instagram.com/p/0YAUEKwS5t/
  11. jlee562

    Ask a question, get an answer

    Oof....ok. So, in general, there's just not as many shades as there used to be. Check out the felt swatch samples in the felt color selection thread. That looks close to winchester's charcoal to me, but that also looks like a velour finish. If you move forward with Art, or really, any custom...
  12. jlee562

    Ask a question, get an answer

    Blue smoke is probably the closest color you'll find, Art should have it. He also has tapered blocks. Akubra has carbon grey, which is technically a blue grey, but not really like that Stetson.
  13. jlee562

    whats the name/type of this hat?

    The new Stetson Renegade doesn't have a pencil curl, but it's a similar wide brim with a pinch. https://www.sheplers.com/stetson-mens-renegade-royal-deluxe-felt-hat/2000256635.html?dwvar_2000256635_color=115#prefn1=size&prefv1=7&start=36
  14. jlee562

    Ask a question, get an answer

    Looks like another unremarkable stingy brim from the 60's. Well, that might be a felted edge, hard to tell from the photos.
  15. jlee562

    whats the name/type of this hat?

    No, no, not at all!
  16. jlee562

    whats the name/type of this hat?

    In any event, @Seelsk is certainly set with some good ballpark specs, which is the point!
  17. jlee562

    whats the name/type of this hat?

    Just to be clear, I'm talking about the length of the entire brim, including the curled part. The kettle curl on my Boss Raw Edge, for example, gives the visual appearance of about 3.5", but if you unrolled the felt and measured it, the brim is cut to 4". It's more than 3", because it is surely...
  18. jlee562

    Quintessential modern production fedora.

    There's a place for modern production fedoras, we're just a picky a bunch - and we're not the market for most of these hats anyways. The Premiere Strat is a good hat that looks good on a fair variety of face shapes and builds (its one of those designs that's versatile like that). I hope Hatco...
  19. jlee562

    whats the name/type of this hat?

    Yes. Again, I am guesstimating 3.5" - 4" brim. A typical "wide brim" fedora is generally 2.5"+. But the classifications are somewhat arbitrary.

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