Well, I'm not a hatter, but I can offer some insight. The snap is a function of the flange of the brim. It's a wooden oval with the desired curvature, over which the felt can be steamed to retain the shape. In production this is customarily done with both steam and pressure.
You should always...
Just nabbed this 1922 Stetson no. 1 Quality, may or may not be a Park Ranger hat. A little dirty and a few moth tracks, but I mostly wanted it because it's also from Berkeley. Seller says ribbon is intact under the band, so it seems this may be a BOP style...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323399931258
Umm, what? Stiff and soft felts are two delineations of hats (this is clearly illustrated by said catalogue and other sources such as Scientific Hat Finishing). The stiffness being determined by the amount of shellac applied, not the composition of the fur felt itself.
1924 catalogue listing...
Yes, you can see what others wore behind Tom and they are not stingy brim hats.
As to what they were called, "fedora" isn't really it either. What we are discussing, are soft felt hats. And those came in a variety of widths. See, for example,this turn of the century Stetson catalog...
I tend to think our modern perceptions of popular hat styles through the decades is something of a caricature. Brim sizes varied through all decades.
As far as "stingy" vs "excess," in terms of sun protection , there is nothing "excess" about a 3" brim.
This guy has some interesting dies which were apparently bought out from a former liner manufacturer?
I of course, don't have any practical need for this, less I start counterfeiting hats, but it's a cool piece of Stetson ephemera
https://www.ebay.com/itm/263890513902
If you're not going to remove the sweatbands, you'll probably have an easier time with a block that is a size under your hat size. Which can also be used for a pork pie:
https://www.instagram.com/p/0YAUEKwS5t/
Oof....ok.
So, in general, there's just not as many shades as there used to be. Check out the felt swatch samples in the felt color selection thread. That looks close to winchester's charcoal to me, but that also looks like a velour finish.
If you move forward with Art, or really, any custom...
Blue smoke is probably the closest color you'll find, Art should have it. He also has tapered blocks.
Akubra has carbon grey, which is technically a blue grey, but not really like that Stetson.
The new Stetson Renegade doesn't have a pencil curl, but it's a similar wide brim with a pinch.
https://www.sheplers.com/stetson-mens-renegade-royal-deluxe-felt-hat/2000256635.html?dwvar_2000256635_color=115#prefn1=size&prefv1=7&start=36
Just to be clear, I'm talking about the length of the entire brim, including the curled part. The kettle curl on my Boss Raw Edge, for example, gives the visual appearance of about 3.5", but if you unrolled the felt and measured it, the brim is cut to 4".
It's more than 3", because it is surely...
There's a place for modern production fedoras, we're just a picky a bunch - and we're not the market for most of these hats anyways.
The Premiere Strat is a good hat that looks good on a fair variety of face shapes and builds (its one of those designs that's versatile like that). I hope Hatco...
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