French Hats and makers.

[TheOldFashioned]

Hello, on Sat 20 Jul 2024, I purchased this velvet fedora for 6 euro at a garage sale in Annoville, Normandie, France. After many searches on the web, I still cannot figure what this inscription "BF première marque" stands for in the inner lining. Does anyone know? Could it be that this inner lining is not the original one that came with hat? As usual, any hint on a date range is welcome.

Top view, pinched.

Front view, pinched.

Rear view, pinched.

Left side view, pinched.

Right side view, pinched.

Bottom view.

Inner lining,, with inscription "BF PREMIÈRE MARQUE" (?).

Sweatband, right side, with inscription "GAUQUELIN 107, Rue Torteron SAINT-LÔ".

Sweatband, left side, with owner's initials "GR".

Sweat band, rear with bow knot.

Tag behind sweatband, with inscription "3", "Ref 2548" "g90", "Qte GUIB" (?).

Top view, not pinched.

Front view, not pinched.

Rear view, not pinched.

Left side view, not pinched.

Right side view, not pinched.

On new owner.

Can't help with dating, but I just wanted to say thank you for joining the forum and sharing your finds. You've showcased some really interesting hats. I wish I could find hats like the ones you have found at garage sales!

 

[steur]

Hello, on Sat 20 Jul 2024, I purchased this velvet fedora for 6 euro at a garage sale in Annoville, Normandie, France. After many searches on the web, I still cannot figure what this inscription "BF première marque" stands for in the inner lining. Does anyone know? Could it be that this inner lining is not the original one that came with hat? As usual, any hint on a date range is welcome.

Top view, pinched.

Front view, pinched.

Rear view, pinched.

Left side view, pinched.

Right side view, pinched.

Bottom view.

Inner lining,, with inscription "BF PREMIÈRE MARQUE" (?).

Sweatband, right side, with inscription "GAUQUELIN 107, Rue Torteron SAINT-LÔ".

Sweatband, left side, with owner's initials "GR".

Sweat band, rear with bow knot.

Tag behind sweatband, with inscription "3", "Ref 2548" "g90", "Qte GUIB" (?).

Top view, not pinched.

Front view, not pinched.

Rear view, not pinched.

Left side view, not pinched.

Right side view, not pinched.

On new owner.

Very cool find and for €6 it's a steal whatever the brand is. I think it is a Fléchet actually. The early Fléchet hat had B. Fléchet on the crown patches or sweatbands. Like these ones:

The label is the same as well. Here's an example of a Fléchet label on a homburg:

They did use the "première marque" designation as well and the decorative double stripe on the sweatband at the retailers' name looks like something they used now and again in their designs.
Very nice; never seen this liner and logo before.

 

[steur]

Picked this one up in Tours, France, while on vacation there. Had a few dings and bumps, but nothing that couldn't be easily fixed.
JB Zephyr bowler in a size 56. Brim at 5cm and the crown at 13 cm. It is indeed "zephyr" in weight as it only weighs 103 grams. Not entirely sure about the maker though. The JB Zephyr points toward Jean Bourrel, but the size label has the letters BSF or SBF on it, which doesn't ring a bell. Sold by Eugene Butscher of La Rochelle.

 

[batankyu]

Picked this one up in Tours, France, while on vacation there. Had a few dings and bumps, but nothing that couldn't be easily fixed.
JB Zephyr bowler in a size 56. Brim at 5cm and the crown at 13 cm. It is indeed "zephyr" in weight as it only weighs 103 grams. Not entirely sure about the maker though. The JB Zephyr points toward Jean Bourrel, but the size label has the letters BSF or SBF on it, which doesn't ring a bell. Sold by Eugene Butscher of La Rochelle.

Note: a photograph of Eugène Albert Butscher can be found on the web, as he was also a fighter pilot during WW1 and was photographed inside his Spad VII biplane, named "Bubu Lolo".

His past as a pilot and the existence of two photographs showing him inside and ouside his biplane were found at page:

Butscher, Eugène Albert (1896-1982 ; chapelier ; La Rochelle). Deux grands tirages photographiques encadrés représentant Eugène Albert, le premier devant son appareil biplan et le second à l'intérieur de son biplan nommé "Bubu Lolo" [1916-1918], brev

francearchives.gouv.fr

The photograph showing him inside the biplane was found at page:

Alfred Pelton: Canada`s Man in the Lafayette Flying Corps — espritdecorps

www.espritdecorps.ca

I did not find the second photgraph online.

 

[steur]

Note: a photograph of Eugène Albert Butscher can be found on the web, as he was also a fighter pilot during WW1 and was photographed inside his Spad VII biplane, named "Bubu Lolo".

His past as a pilot and the existence of two photographs showing him inside and ouside his biplane were found at page:

http://[URL]https://francearchives.gouv.fr/fr/facomponent/57636fdeb2bc72a55b034612600813d3048846c8

[/URL]

The photograph showing him inside the biplane was found at page:

http://[URL]https://www.espritdecorps.ca/alfred-pelton-canadas-man-in-the-lafayette-flying-corps

[/URL]

I did not find the second photgraph online.

Great research! I could not find any information on him or the business.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

I went in blindly taking a gamble.
The label indicated that it was the oldest Morreton I had ever encountered in my life as a hat hunter

The shape was that of a hat from the beginning of the last century

The saleswoman was aware of its value and so I pressed the button hoping for good luck, also a little deluded by the measurements given to me...

Morreton made in France, I think a hundred years ago, maybe more.
The size, unfortunately, is 56 centimeters and its state of conservation is perfect. I add that I was afraid it was a woman's hat but it is not.

In my opinion it is a hat for young men also because I have seen some worn in France at the beginning of the last century.

Chapeu Francais Morreton - Marque Deposée, there are no other indications except the size 56 centimeters

The measurements of this beauty are: raw brims at 9.5 centimeters, ribbon at 5 centimeters and the lowest point of the crown is at 13 centimeters.

The felt is thick and very solid.
Notice to sailors in the sea of hats, if for someone this hat is a siren with a mischievous charm, write to me.
Seeing it and not being able to wear it is torture. It can arrive in new homes.

 

[mayserwegener]

I went in blindly taking a gamble.
The label indicated that it was the oldest Morreton I had ever encountered in my life as a hat hunter

The shape was that of a hat from the beginning of the last century

The saleswoman was aware of its value and so I pressed the button hoping for good luck, also a little deluded by the measurements given to me...

Morreton made in France, I think a hundred years ago, maybe more.
The size, unfortunately, is 56 centimeters and its state of conservation is perfect. I add that I was afraid it was a woman's hat but it is not.

In my opinion it is a hat for young men also because I have seen some worn in France at the beginning of the last century.

Chapeu Francais Morreton - Marque Deposée, there are no other indications except the size 56 centimeters

The measurements of this beauty are: raw brims at 9.5 centimeters, ribbon at 5 centimeters and the lowest point of the crown is at 13 centimeters.

The felt is thick and very solid.
Notice to sailors in the sea of hats, if for someone this hat is a siren with a mischievous charm, write to me.
Seeing it and not being able to wear it is torture. It can arrive in new homes.

Daniele, Great find! Like to see the old treasures!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Daniele, Great find! Like to see the old treasures!

Grazie Steve. As always I try to do my best

 

[steur]

Fléchet Smart Foulard lords hat in a reddish brown colour called "Diola" (I think). Size 57 with the brim at a good 6cm and the crown at a generous 11,5cm at the center dent. Looks unworn and the felt feels fantastic. Not lightweight at 148 grams and it is large for me being a size 57. I want to keep it, but I don't know if I will.