Stetson No. 1 Quality

[alanfgag]

Stetson No.1 Quality Western. Block 52, 3" bound edge brim x 6" open crown.

That's an interesting hat!

 

[Hurricane Jack]

That's an interesting hat!

I thought so too, thought it was probably rare & was excited to get to put it back as it should be.

 

[Winston Carter]

Western: Stetson #1 followed by Resistol in #2. The only problem with new Stetson's and Resistols they don't have many color options. Same true with their Fedora's. Thanks for sharing these old Stetson's !!

 

[jlee562]

Very cool to see the #52 block on a Western!

 

[jlee562]

Well, the "Ranger" hat came in today. The good? The sweatband is still fairly soft, despite the hat showing signs that it was not stored in the most ideal of conditions. I was able to gently turn it out to document the innards. The brim is still very stiff, the crown much less so. The original owner, Mr. Griffin, added his name on the inside and the outside of the sweat, and there seems to be the faint shadows of a once artistic design at the top of the crown. The bad? Pretty significant mothing hiding under the leather band. I was hoping to have Art clean this one up a bit, but now not so sure it would survive the process. Although the felt does feel substantial...I'll send some pics over and see what he says.

I've been yet unable to find out any substantial information about this hat. Tracking down the store addresses for Herbert Jones wasn't much of a problem. They seem to have had three stores at different points over the decades, two in downtown Berkeley and one across the street from the UC Berkeley Campus on Telegraph Ave. 1922 is too early for this to be an NPS band, as those bands weren't officially adopted until the 1930's (apparently, aside from setting the regulations from brim width, and color, and specifically a Stetson, the band was up to the wearer). It's possible it's related to the California State Parks service in some way, but the fact that the year is stamped on the band made me think it was something more commemorative, perhaps tied to the university. Alas, nothing has turned up so far.

Brim is 3", crown seems to be 4", looks like block 186. Sweat is stamped B406121 and then also looks like a "1 7/8" stamp next to 163 and the lot 5066 stamp.

First outdoor photo shows truest color representation (all photos link to larger versions):






Hatband detail:


Without band:


Moth buffet:


Innards and such:

 

[splintercellsz]

turned out to be a great piece!!

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[hatophile]

Well, the "Ranger" hat came in today. The good? The sweatband is still fairly soft, despite the hat showing signs that it was not stored in the most ideal of conditions. I was able to gently turn it out to document the innards. The brim is still very stiff, the crown much less so. The original owner, Mr. Griffin, added his name on the inside and the outside of the sweat, and there seems to be the faint shadows of a once artistic design at the top of the crown. The bad? Pretty significant mothing hiding under the leather band. I was hoping to have Art clean this one up a bit, but now not so sure it would survive the process. Although the felt does feel substantial...I'll send some pics over and see what he says.

I've been yet unable to find out any substantial information about this hat. Tracking down the store addresses for Herbert Jones wasn't much of a problem. They seem to have had three stores at different points over the decades, two in downtown Berkeley and one across the street from the UC Berkeley Campus on Telegraph Ave. 1922 is too early for this to be an NPS band, as those bands weren't officially adopted until the 1930's (apparently, aside from setting the regulations from brim width, and color, and specifically a Stetson, the band was up to the wearer). It's possible it's related to the California State Parks service in some way, but the fact that the year is stamped on the band made me think it was something more commemorative, perhaps tied to the university. Alas, nothing has turned up so far.

Brim is 3", crown seems to be 4", looks like block 186. Sweat is stamped B406121 and then also looks like a "1 7/8" stamp next to 163 and the lot 5066 stamp.

First outdoor photo shows truest color representation (all photos link to larger versions):






Hatband detail:


Without band:


Moth buffet:


Innards and such:

Very cool Jared, looks like you've done a lot of research.

 

[jlee562]

turned out to be a great piece!!

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Very cool Jared, looks like you've done a lot of research.

thanks gents, it's a real treat to handle these old felts. I spent some time last night with steam, hat brush, hat sponge, and some jojoba oil. Turned out better than I thought it would, wearable even! Though I've given a thought to seeing if the Oakland Museum of California would want it as a donation (Indiana Jones is always in the back of my mind: "it belongs in a museum!") It would be nice to figure out what the hat band is....possibly related to scouting as well?

 

[hatophile]

thanks gents, it's a real treat to handle these old felts. I spent some time last night with steam, hat brush, hat sponge, and some jojoba oil. Turned out better than I thought it would, wearable even! Though I've given a thought to seeing if the Oakland Museum of California would want it as a donation (Indiana Jones is always in the back of my mind: "it belongs in a museum!") It would be nice to figure out what the hat band is....possibly related to scouting as well?

Looks like maybe CA state park band:

https://www.lawuniform.com/UMSS.cfm...UMSession=76700CF7-F619-EAA9-3900713650486946

 

[Rogera]

Stetson No.1 Quality Western. Block 52, 3" bound edge brim x 6" open crown. After many yrs creased in a teardrop & a wonky brim, brought back to her former beauty.

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Continued

Simply wow!

 

[Rogera]

I have to stop looking at this thread, the "new hats" and Ebay threads, I'm trying to quit...

Me too!

 

[Wyldkarma]

What really defines a No. 1 quality Stetson? They all look so different. Strats, Whippets, Playboys all have similarities. No. 1's are all so different What does No. 1 quality mean? I searched for old advertising but did not find any for them.

 

[jlee562]

What really defines a No. 1 quality Stetson? They all look so different. Strats, Whippets, Playboys all have similarities. No. 1's are all so different What does No. 1 quality mean? I searched for old advertising but did not find any for them.

No. 1 Quality is a felt grade.

It's not clear to me exactly where on the spectrum it fit, but I believe it was on the lower echelon of Stetsons. Check out this page from a reprinted Stetson catalogue that Justin posted a while back:

"The genuine Boss Raw Edge Kettle Finish hats are not made in less than Nutria quality at the prices herein given...We, however, make an imitation of these shapes in the No. 1x and No. 1 qualities."

This other page shows the increasing prices from No. 1 Quality to Real Beaver.

 

[Bamaboots]

It's not clear to me exactly where on the spectrum it fit, but I believe it was on the lower echelon of Stetsons.

I believe you are right, Jared. Both of my # 1's are from the late 50's and one still has the $13.95 price tag, dated 02/58 behind the sweat. A fairly low price point, even for that era. Relative to say a 3X, it was a couple of dollars below that and more as you went up the number scale.

 

[Wyldkarma]

I believe you are right, Jared. Both of my # 1's are from the late 50's and one still has the $13.95 price tag, dated 02/58 behind the sweat. A fairly low price point, even for that era. Relative to say a 3X, it was a couple of dollars below that and more as you went up the number scale.

Wow great info Jared, exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks! The "Mad Men" of advertising were on the top of their game back then. To sell more Stetsons just tell the masses the lower end Stetsons are No1.....but in reality they are really No6's on a quality scale.....that advertising strategy is alive and well in both marketing and politics today. Long live the "Mad Men", But, I must say that new white No1 I just got is truly No1 in my eyes. Amazing feel in the hand, soft like butter, and the brim still snaps like a new hat.

 

[Wyldkarma]

I believe you are right, Jared. Both of my # 1's are from the late 50's and one still has the $13.95 price tag, dated 02/58 behind the sweat. A fairly low price point, even for that era. Relative to say a 3X, it was a couple of dollars below that and more as you went up the number scale.

 

[Wyldkarma]

You must've gotten the high end No1 Bama...the 50's No1 I just got has a price tag sticker of $7.50. lol.

 

[Bamaboots]

Amazing feel in the hand, soft like butter, and the brim still snaps like a new hat.

That's another thing about the, no.1's, the different configurations. Both of mine are stiff felt, straight up cowboy hats. Yours is soft. @Hurricane Jack got one not long ago that the crown appears to be very soft and it has a bound brim.

 

[Bamaboots]

You must've gotten the high end No1 Bama...the 50's No1 I just got has a price tag sticker of $7.50. lol.

I saw that. Sale hat? Maybe everyone was afraid of white.

 

[Wyldkarma]

I saw that. Sale hat? Maybe everyone was afraid of white.

lol....bargain bin white.