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  1. Orgetorix

    Two or Three Button

    Just a few comments: The fronts look a little shapeless and could use more waist suppression. The back doesn't look too bad in this regard. It looks like you have a low right shoulder and a low left hip, neither of which has been corrected for. The shoulder issue can be fixed either with...
  2. Orgetorix

    Thom Browne-Say It Ain't So!

    While this news is being widely reported, FWIW, Browne himself denies it.
  3. Orgetorix

    Long term vest fit

    No, it won't help your vests that are already too tight. I suggested it for future, larger vests. As I said already, there's no way to make your current vests larger except possibly with a whole new back.
  4. Orgetorix

    Hugh Jackman hosting the Oscars - Black / White Tie

    Maybe, but I doubt it for one significant reason: white tie, more than any other form of dress is about rules. It's as close to a uniform as a civilian gets, and there is virtually no leeway regarding the details if one still wants to be correct. Modern individualists dress abominably in...
  5. Orgetorix

    how to make a bespoke Jacket (Darren Beaman)

    Not necessarily. It may indicate that the jacket was bespoke, but bespoke makers often put their own labels inside jackets, anyway. More likely it was just removed by a previous owner at some point.
  6. Orgetorix

    Button placement on morning coat?

    Looks good! I think the vintage standard, and what this would originally have been worn with, would be trousers with a much higher rise and a significantly shorter vest. The result is that less of the vest shows below the morning coat fronts, like so: Still your coat looks great, and...
  7. Orgetorix

    Long term vest fit

    A dart is a tapered seam that is let into a piece of fabric to shape it. Your suit coat probably has them in front, running from the lower chest down to or through the pockets; your dress trousers probably have them in back above each pocket. The dart I mentioned is placed at the armhole...
  8. Orgetorix

    Long term vest fit

    First, I wouldn't worry about a custom vest losing its fit, unless you lose your fitness. Neither wool (the front) nor rayon (the back) stretch much, and if your vest is tight enough you'd be more likely to rip the seams out than to have it lose its shape. Second, if you're buying a vest...
  9. Orgetorix

    Tailcoat

    Most, though not all, of the tailcoats I've seen illustrated in Apparel Arts/Esquire have been without breast pockets. Of course, that may not tell us anything more than that Lawrence Fellowes didn't like them.
  10. Orgetorix

    SOLD--Florsheim Imperial longwings, 9D

    SOLD--Florsheim Imperial tan scotch-grain longwings, size 9D. Leather soles and heels with the v-cleat, fully leather lined. Classic American gunboats. They're in great condition, with light wear to the soles and uppers. No major scratches or nicks. $45 shipped in the CONUS. Paypal...
  11. Orgetorix

    A Package from Pasadena, or How to Get from Savile Row to Ames, Iowa in Only 13 Years

    Are all four of the buttonholes on the sleeves working? Some Savile Row houses only cut through the lower two, for just this situation. The faux stitching on the upper two can be picked out, the sleeves lengthened, and one or two new buttonholes made in the proper location below. Even so, I...
  12. Orgetorix

    The Double Breasted Silhouette

    That's exactly what I did with my brown DB pictured above. Well, mine was 4x1 and I had my tailor add another buttonhole, converting it to 4x2. Before: After:
  13. Orgetorix

    The Double Breasted Silhouette

    Take a look at this photo of a single-breasted suit. The principle lines of emphasis are marked in red: the lapels and the single buttoning line along the front of the jacket. This is simple, and all the lines go basically in one direction. That's why many people say they're more flattering...
  14. Orgetorix

    Hugh Jackman hosting the Oscars - Black / White Tie

    It's not so much a matter of what I think people should or should not wear, as much as a recognition of the state of things in the modern world. There is a consistent trend in menswear that has been in operation for two centuries or more. What is considered standard attire moves to the realm...
  15. Orgetorix

    Hugh Jackman hosting the Oscars - Black / White Tie

    Not so much a joke as a costume. He demonstrated perfectly why white tie is, for all intents and purposes, dead as serious formalwear in the modern world. Don it, and everyone immediately knows you're going to do a song-'n-dance routine. It's sad, but it's true. Note that he wore black tie...
  16. Orgetorix

    Oxxford Spring '09--beltback jacket

    Oxxford Clothes, the highest of high-end American clothing manufacturers, is showing a jacket in their spring line that has a shirred belt back and three slit-pleated patch pockets. Other looks over at Styleforum: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=105041
  17. Orgetorix

    '40s DB Blue Jacket, 38-40R

    Price drop. Now $25 shipped.
  18. Orgetorix

    Two or Three Button

    You're right. It is SB. I posted not because it could shed light on the DB-vest aspect of the discussion, but because I think it is an example of a well-proportioned two-button jacket with peak lapels.
  19. Orgetorix

    Two or Three Button

    Just personal preference. I'd say it looks better to button your jacket when you are not wearing a vest, though the vest gives you the option of leaving your jacket open. It's never wrong to button your jacket.
  20. Orgetorix

    Two or Three Button

    I've always thought the proportions of this suit were just about perfect. You could raise the top button a little--an inch or so--but not too far.

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