Two or Three Button

[Orgetorix]

I was under the impression that you do not button a single breasted suit when you wear a vest. This picture proves otherwise. Is there an actual rule here or just personal preference?

Just personal preference. I'd say it looks better to button your jacket when you are not wearing a vest, though the vest gives you the option of leaving your jacket open. It's never wrong to button your jacket.

 

[Orgetorix]

Is that actually a DB vest in that illustration? It looks SB to me, although it is a bit tough to make out the details.

You're right. It is SB. I posted not because it could shed light on the DB-vest aspect of the discussion, but because I think it is an example of a well-proportioned two-button jacket with peak lapels.

 

[AlanC]

I think the illustration Orgetorix posted is just the thing.

For notch lapel suit I would strongly advocate a so-called '2 1/2 button' suit, a three button where the top button rolls gently and only the second is buttoned. However, I think three buttons is too much for a peak lapel suit, and since you are going with a waistcoat I think a one button would be just the thing.

Make sure you get side vents with a peak lapel.

 

[Feraud]

I like the proportions of this suit.

I've always thought the proportions of this suit were just about perfect. You could raise the top button a little--an inch or so--but not too far.

 

[DOUGLAS]

This is a fantastic looking suit. I especially like the pattern. Even though the illustration is exaggerated to make the man taller given my proportions I think I need the jacket to be a wee shorter and the lapels not as wide. I still want the top button a tad higher.

I looked at many tweeds today as well and found quite a few I would love to have suits made from. They were heavier fabric and I thought that it might be too much for a DB vest. I will stick with my original plan and get a fabric that will accommodate the type of vest I want. Maybe It will look ridiculous given my waist size but I am going to try anyway.I thought perhaps it would be prudent to have a second vest made single breasted.

I spoke with a second tailor today who came recommended and after I explained what I wanted ;

a two or three buttoned single breasted jacket
with peaked lapels, high armholes,working cuff
buttons,silk lining and no rear vent or a inverted
pleat as a substitute.
a double breasted vest with peaked lapels.
High waisted trousers with dropped belt loops and
a single front pleat.

I told him that I could give him examples of details I wanted. He said that I should have a belted back and center inverted pleat at the back but I think I would prefer not to have that detail for this one. No need for the kitchen sink to be thrown in. I will try to keep it as simple as I can given the details I want.

 

[Chrome]

That picture is great.

I just love my black single button suit. I guess I'm arrogant and care free

 

[resortes805]

I don't know if three buttons are considered vintage, but they just strike me as very 1990's.

Great The Dark Knight reference...

 

[DOUGLAS]

Chrome, your suit looks great on you. I can see why you are an advocate for the single button.

 

[Rhabryn]

Please have him put in vents!

Douglas,

A personal Request:
Please, please, please don't go ventless...

Just my own opinion of what I like to see.
For example, if I saw an otherwise well-constructed suit, that obviously had alot of thought put into it by the wearer, but was ventless... I believe I would be depressed for days.

I greatly prefer double-vent suits (especially when they are combined with peak lapels). But, single-vent is great too.

Additionally,
If your Tailor can handle it, you might check out other threads on the forum dealing with back-belted suits. Inverted Pleat above the belt, then the belt at the most surpressed portion of the waist, then the vents starting immediately below the belt.


Finally,
I vote for a 2 button suit... The proportions, to me, are always more elegant on a 2-button than a 3 button. If you did want 3-button, go with a "2-roll-3" as described above.

Thank you,
Rhabryn

Oh, P.S. - with regard to Mr. Bown's advice... He seems to present himself as an extreme snob, and, in addition, he seems to do so in a direction that, at least to my eye, is not visually pleasing. However, I should disclose that I've always disliked high-gorge peak-lapel suits, as the lines of the lapel have to be too exaggerated and aggressive, given the short amount of space they have, to be elegant.

 

[Tomasso]

Please, please, please don't go ventless...
if I saw an otherwise well-constructed suit, that obviously had alot of thought put into it by the wearer, but was ventless... I believe I would be depressed for days.

My, my, such high drama over vents.

 

[resortes805]

I personally prefer the ventless look. If you are going for a more iconic vintage look, you may choose to go ventless. Of course you also need to take into account what you plan to do in your suit (Fred Astaire often wore suits with vents), or if need to use your pants pockets alot; in those cases vents are quite useful.

Beware of combining a belted back suit with open vents. Combining vents and belts will result in either a 1920's or a 1970's look, depending on the overall all appearance of your suit. Just be really conscious of the look you are going for.

You may want to consider going with deep pleats in lieu of vents; they serve the same purpose but still provide that great vintage look.

 

[Tomasso]

if need to use your pants pockets alot; in those cases vents are quite useful.

I've always considered the pocket access complaint a specious argument. I have never found it to be an issue. And, aesthetically, I kinda like the somewhat dishevelled look it presents.

 

[DOUGLAS]

My reason for not wanting vents is that my body is not model-like. My back end is not small. I have a long torso and short arms and legs. Every suit I own with a vent be it single or double regardless of cut or roominess tends to billow out. For me this just accentuates the back of the jacket in non flattering way. If I need more room I would go for an inverted pleat . The jackets I have from the Forties and Fifties without vents sit well and for me look better. I have decided against an action back,rear belt or a center pleat. I want a simple sharp jacket. I am not specifically looking for a period look. If it turns out that way I will be fine but it is not my main impetus.

All the opinions here are valid and I have considered them all. My point is to cull as much info as possible in order to make the best informed choice.

 

[BellyTank]

That picture is great.

I just love my black single button suit. I guess I'm arrogant and care free

Yours is fantastic.


B
T

 

[Sefton]

That picture is great.

I just love my black single button suit. I guess I'm arrogant and care free

I don't want to completely hi-jack this thread, but I love that suit and would like to see more pics and have some info on it. Could you post it in the "Show Us Your Suits" thread? Great Hi-Fi too!

 

[BellyTank]

Vents can give a flared, skirt effect, which may be more apparent on a shorter person. Re pocket use- I believe that the open-ness of the jacket front,
below the last button allows ample trouser pocket relief.


B
T

 

[carldelo]

Yep

Vents can give a flared, skirt effect, which may be more apparent on a shorter person. Re pocket use- I believe that the open-ness of the jacket front,
below the last button allows ample trouser pocket relief.


B
T

I agree with no vents - I'm a no-vent guy, and don't seem to have much trouble getting into my pockets. I like the way the jacket drapes when I slouch around with my hands in them. Plus, you've got to give Douglas credit for knowing what does and does not look good on himself.

As to the original question, I would go with 3 buttons, leaving the top unbuttoned while wearing the vest. A higher-gorge 3 button jacket with no vents helps lengthen vertical lines, making us medium height guys look a little taller.

 

[Son_of_Atropos]

 

[Fletch]

I'm a 3B guy. I like the graceful interruption in the curve of a shorter lapel when it's buttoned in the middle, and the extra barrier against wind and muss when it's buttoned up top. The 3B look also makes me look higher-waisted than I really am, and that's a real plus.

So many 2Bs (mid priced 1980s-90s style) button low and bow out. It takes the eye away from the jacket shape and focuses it downwards, along the long stiff (usually fused) curve of the lapel. It says (to me), "I am no longer a flattering yet functional layer. I am a front, made to save costs and fill a role-function."

If a 2B doesn't look good with both buttons fastened, I won't wear it. The latter day, higher-buttoned 2Bs can work that way, but then again, some of them buckle (no good).

3 roll 2? Forget it. That's a 3B designed to work like an 80s 2B. Even a plain 2B would be better than having a 3rd button designed to be unusable.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Great photo! And Sir Anthony Eden is indeed wearing a double-breasted vest with the suit. He was (in)famous for sporting that kind of vest.