Long term vest fit

[Macheath]

I generally have some degree of difficulty finding suits, shirts, and sport coats that fit properly. I'm only 5' 6", have a 40 inch chest and a 29 inch waist, and though 38 short usually looks fine, it's still at bit too roomy and usually still too long for my tastes.

These are things that I can easily get over. What I cannot tolerate, though are vests that fit too loosely, and that's a problem because I've been incorporating them into my attire with increasing regularity.

Generally, the proper chest size translates to oodles of uneeded room everywhere else, and it's usually too long. The ones that I do have that fit just right really constrict my chest during certain times of the day and certain days of the week (depending on which days I go to the gym), and since my chest size is still expanding, I expect that in no time, they will be way too tight to wear.

Basically, I'm wondering if there are any amateur bodybuilders here with the same problem, and if anyone knows if there are any alterations that can be done to the vests that I do have to improve the fit aroud the chest. I'm not too keen on vest with belt adjustments(and as I said above, if they fit right around my chest, they'll probably be longer than I want), and I cannot justify the cost of a bespoke vest knowing that it will likely lose its fit after a short while.

EDIT:
I just had an idea, although quite possibly a horrible one. Would longer armholes solve this problem? Cost effective or no? Would altering that part of the vest make it look awkward/ruin the overall fit?

 

[Orgetorix]

First, I wouldn't worry about a custom vest losing its fit, unless you lose your fitness. Neither wool (the front) nor rayon (the back) stretch much, and if your vest is tight enough you'd be more likely to rip the seams out than to have it lose its shape.

Second, if you're buying a vest off the rack, you should buy one that fits your chest comfortably. A good tailor can take in the lower part of the body at the sides to fit your torso. He may need to put a couple of darts at the sides of the chest/armhole area in order to reduce the excess fabric in the drop from chest to waist.

I'm afraid I don't know of any alterations that can be done to your existing vests, except perhaps having the backs replaced with larger ones. This would be a difficult, and therefore expensive, job, and you'd probably be better off buying or commissioning new ones.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Before buying anything new, i'd wait until you've got to the size where you'll stop expanding. Buying new stuff - unless it's super cheap - would be money down the pan.

As for existing wardrobe, there is no doubt some room for expansion but this will be limited before 1) you run out of excess fabric, 2) it starts to look badly ill-proportioned.

bk

 

[H.Johnson]

Age-related weight loss

How 'long term' is 'long term' in your view?

There is a well-known phenomenon where a person who has developed his or her physical build through muscular activity and achieved a certain size and weight will lose that size and weight as they get beyond a certain age.

I call this 'age-related weight loss'. With me it happened after about 50 and for the last 14 years I have been losing about two pounds weight per year and have gone from a 44" chest/32" waist to a 36"chest/30" waist. It would probably have happened anyway (muscle wastage) but in my case was almost certainly linked to a change of sports and leisure pursuits. You don't need the same muscles whan running a marathon or doing a 50 mile walk.

If you are thinking in the very long term - middle age and beyond you may wish to consider this. I have closets full of clothes that map out my life but are no use to me now!

On the other hand, I can now once again get into the same clothes I wore as a teenager. If you take a long term view, just wait. Your vests will fit you well again, sometime...

 

[Macheath]

How 'long term' is 'long term' in your view?

There is a well-known phenomenon where a person who has developed his or her physical build through muscular activity and achieved a certain size and weight will lose that size and weight as they get beyond a certain age.

...

On the other hand, I can now once again get into the same clothes I wore as a teenager. If you take a long term view, just wait. Your vests will fit you well again, sometime...

Well, since I'm only 20, and still quite motivated, I don't expect to start to lose my physical fitness until well into my 30's. I'm afraid waiting until I'm middle aged to fit into some of the clothes I have now isn't feasible .

I'm still making decent gains, so I don't know if I've reached my upper limit yet. I suppose I could wait until my gains start to taper off and then plan to go custom, but that might not be for quite some time.

Perhaps I'm being a bit unreasonable expecting to be able to enjoy well-fitting clothes while I'm still growing at an accelerated rate, but I do still wonder if there is some sort of middle ground in terms of cost and sacrifices in comfort.

 

[Macheath]

He may need to put a couple of darts at the sides of the chest/armhole area in order to reduce the excess fabric in the drop from chest to waist.

Query: Darts?

I don't want to seem like a complete rube, but I'm unfamiliar with the term.

 

[Son_of_Atropos]

Have you thought of changing your work out routine? Instead of building mass perhaps you could tone. Tone = higher reps lighter weight rather than build mass higher weight, lower reps.

 

[Tomasso]

I second the opinion of keeping a lean and toned physique. Excessive muscularity brings with it several unresolvable tailoring issues. In addition, adding mass serves to visually reduce a person's height, something you should probably consider.

 

[Orgetorix]

Query: Darts?

I don't want to seem like a complete rube, but I'm unfamiliar with the term.

A dart is a tapered seam that is let into a piece of fabric to shape it. Your suit coat probably has them in front, running from the lower chest down to or through the pockets; your dress trousers probably have them in back above each pocket.

The dart I mentioned is placed at the armhole like this, allowing the chest of the vest to be shaped around your pecs:

 

[H.Johnson]

Well, since I'm only 20, and still quite motivated, I don't expect to start to lose my physical fitness until well into my 30's. I'm afraid waiting until I'm middle aged to fit into some of the clothes I have now isn't feasible .

I wouldn't neglect the pleasures that fitting once more at 60+ into clothes you wore in your 20s can bring a vintage clothing enthusiast. I'm enjoying being reacquainted with some 'old closet friends' such as the Wranglers my favourite Aunt bought me for 41 years ago.

Also, please don't associate reduced muscle bulk with losing your physical fitness, as you put it. Typically, by many aerobic and endurance measures long-distance runners are physically fitter than weight lifters.

 

[Macheath]

A dart is a tapered seam that is let into a piece of fabric to shape it. Your suit coat probably has them in front, running from the lower chest down to or through the pockets; your dress trousers probably have them in back above each pocket.

The dart I mentioned is placed at the armhole like this, allowing the chest of the vest to be shaped around your pecs:

Seems like darts would only work when there is surplus fabric in that area. How about a reverse dart of sorts? Cut a notch into the site and transplant a matching fabric to expand the fit around the pectoral area, that is.


Or would that be too distasteful?

Not that it matters in my quarters. Dress standards are so relaxed here in NC that no one would see the difference.

I might suggest that to my local tailor if she tells me there is no other way to fix it.

 

[Orgetorix]

Seems like darts would only work when there is surplus fabric in that area. How about a reverse dart of sorts? Cut a notch into the site and transplant a matching fabric to expand the fit around the pectoral area, that is.


Or would that be too distasteful?

Not that it matters in my quarters. Dress standards are so relaxed here in NC that no one would see the difference.

I might suggest that to my local tailor if she tells me there is no other way to fix it.

No, it won't help your vests that are already too tight. I suggested it for future, larger vests. As I said already, there's no way to make your current vests larger except possibly with a whole new back.

 

[Macheath]

I showed my vests to my tailor yesterday, and according to her, there is hope for them. She said she can salvage enough extra material along the top halves of the sides, which would be about an inch and a quarter per side.

The fit is a bit deceiving, and I had to explain to her WHY it doesn't fit. I can button them up just fine, but taking a full breath isn't possible, since they're so snug that expanding my chest pulls on the top buttons.

I'll find out come Wednesday if it worked. *crosses fingers*

 

[reetpleat]

I showed my vests to my tailor yesterday, and according to her, there is hope for them. She said she can salvage enough extra material along the top halves of the sides, which would be about an inch and a quarter per side.

The fit is a bit deceiving, and I had to explain to her WHY it doesn't fit. I can button them up just fine, but taking a full breath isn't possible, since they're so snug that expanding my chest pulls on the top buttons.

I'll find out come Wednesday if it worked. *crosses fingers*

If you go to a thrift store or vintage shop, you can buy cheap vests. Take the back off a bigger vest and you can have all the room you need.

I went from a 31 waist to a 34 over the last few years and am considering what I can do with all my too tight vests.

 

[Macheath]

If you go to a thrift store or vintage shop, you can buy cheap vests. Take the back off a bigger vest and you can have all the room you need.

I went from a 31 waist to a 34 over the last few years and am considering what I can do with all my too tight vests.

Thanks. I've considered starting with bigger vests, but (and I think I mentioned this in some form above), since I'm a short fella, most vests that are big enough around to fit are too long.

That said, I'd probably benefit from frequenting thrift shops more, umm, frequently, anyway.

Although being in NC, common thrift shop fare isn't all that impressive. Which is why I often turn to the internets.

 

[Tomasso]

A competent tailor equipped with a yard of bemberg will solve the problem.

 

[Macheath]

Well, the alterations worked, and I am pleased!

They still hug my torso closely like a properly fitting vest should, but I could now take a full breath without being restrained around the chest.

Wore one to a dance last night and I didn't feel any of the previous discomfort. I'll take some pictures the next time I wear them.