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Stick with vintage high price point hats if possible.
Second Cervo with surprise: it is a Tonak!
It is clear from the inside paper label that the hat was made in Czechoslovakia
The felt is very similar to others TONAK I have
I had a suspicion when I tried to shape it, it had the same "reactions" of Tonak.
I looked under the sweat band and so it was.
The green felt is very dense with a suede finish, very pliable.
Size 58 or 7 1/4 US with crown at 11 cm (4.35 inches) and overwelt brims 5cm (2 inches)
The mark on the lining and on the sweatband are out of the usual graphics used by Cervo
The question I have asked to myself is: why does a company like Cervo build the hats from a European competitor? When was this Czech production for one of the average Italian manufacturers of hats?
it's definitely from the communist time (see czechoslovakia) period. I wonder if week "85" is actually the production year? Probably finish rand price related. They could source a complete hat with antelope finish at a low price point.
Thought Guerra was using FEPSA? Guess they use both? I bought a Guerra GQ (NOS) stamped 2007 inside the sweatband and now I'm wondering who manufactured the body...?TONAK was also known for this type of finish so price + finish makes sense. When I visited TONAK in 2011 I saw a Guerra hat. JHS made complete hats for British makers (others) up to WWII and TONAK did the same post WWII. They both also supplied felt Stumpen and Capeline.
I just noticed a Guerra hat when I visited the TONAK factory back in 2011. I would guess Guerra is sourcing from different suppliers (making some hats in house and sourcing others). They are a small operation. TONAK also sells raw and processed fur (hare and rabbit).
Bob your Guerra could be 100% Italian.
Italian felt is still produced and some years ago more than now.
The biggest regret of the few remaining hatters in Italy, excluding Borsalino, is not to find the most excellent Italian production of felts, starting from the beautiful wool hats Monza exported all over the world and the fur felt produced in Piedmont that did great the Italian hatters.
There is not only FEPSA in Italy ;-)