Italian brands hats

[Daniele Tanto]

Steve when do you think the Homburg hat "Fausto" by Muttinelli Milan has been done?
Do you know that in Italy there exists a variant of the Homburg hat, slightly different, called Lobbia?
In Milan there is another hatmaker, as well Melegari, which builds custom-made hats. It's called Cabella http://www.cappelleriacabella.com/.
The two hats that I put the photos yesterday are too small for my head, I'm sorry, but I think I'll sell them.

 

[mayserwegener]

I believe it was made in the 1960s. Here is a e-mail I received from Matteo Mutinelli back in April 2011.

"I received photos of your Homburg hat. After a careful consideration of it, I can say that your hat has been produced in the sixties. The lining is marked "Fausto", the name of the hat shop founder and the line has been produced by Dante Mutinelli, founder's son and my grandfather, died at the end of the sixties.
We have yet today in our shop hat similar to your Homburg in wool and rabbit felt.
Greetings and best reguards,"

Yes I am aware of the Lobbia (Italian term). I no longer have the Muttinelli but it probably would be considered a Lobbia in Italy. They (Lobbia - Homburg) could have become similar styles over time or where similar from the start (you see similar style soft felt hats in northern Italy, Austria, Germany going back to the mid to late 19th Century). By the way I have never come across the term Homburg in any pre WWII German or Austrian hat trade publications (actually one export ad for Möckel of Bad Homburg the producers of Edward VII's Homburg) or hat company catalogs. Homburg is an Anglo term for the hat style that Edward VII brought back from Bad Homburg. Edward's Homburg was gray an had a very tall tapered crown, center crease with extreme brim (with binding) curl / flange so the style changed over time (also became more formal).

Edward VII

This is an interesting thread to take a look at regarding the Fedora and Homburg (Anglo and American terms). Homburg and Fedora pretty much described (in America) the same style hat (a pre WWII Fedora would be considered Homburg or Lobbia like today) up to WWII. In a America Fedora or Alpine crease = center crease (see Homburg and Lobbia).

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?48956-Fedoras-in-the-19th-Century

Thanks for the Cabella link. I think I might have come across them in one my past searches. How is their current work?

 

[mayserwegener]

I found this website with photo and video tours of the Museo dell'Arte del Cappello Ghiffa (located in the old Panizza factory).

http://www.artescanitalia.it/index.php?pg=opere&obid=31

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Very interesting. I planned a visit in the next weeks to that Museum, the historical Panizza factory.
Could be amazing. I want to find a fellow lover of hats, there are not so many of my knowledge :eusa_doh:
Many thanks Wilkes, your post make me more eager to go on the "Lago Maggiore"!

 

[ManofKent]

Daniele - if you get to the museum please try and take some pictures. I bought a couple of Panizzas from RMR earlier this year and they're beautiful hats.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Richard I will do pictures of the Panizza old factory now the "Museo del cappello" in Ghiffa Lago Maggiore.
The Panizzas you bought from RMR are a batch of the last production made before the brand was merged in Cappellificio Falcus. The new Panizza are good to excellent, but no so seen also in the few Italian hat shops

 

[new2hats]

I am interested in buy a vintage Panizza or Barbisio hat. I run between US 7 1/8 (57 cm) and US 7 1/4 (58 cm) (actually 7 1/8 LO is about right). When I order one of these hats, do I want to order up, down? i.e do these brands run larger? Any size advice when ordering one of these hats?

 

[ManofKent]

I'm between a 60 and 61 and went up with the Panizzas - I found them slightly on the small side like vintage Borsalinos.

 

[ManofKent]

Richard I will do pictures of the Panizza old factory now the "Museo del cappello" in Ghiffa Lago Maggiore.
The Panizzas you bought from RMR are a batch of the last production made before the brand was merged in Cappellificio Falcus. The new Panizza are good to excellent, but no so seen also in the few Italian hat shops

I love the old factory ones (give me a choice between them and Borsalinos and I'd take the Panizza every time). I've only handled the wool ones from the new Panizzas which seem as good as any wool hats, I might try one of the fur felt ones sometime (I know someone who stocks the wool ones and can order the fur felt in).

 

[Chepstow]

The second flea market find from today!
A old Barbisio Extra Quality. You can see the moth nibbles under the brim.
It should be a 59 but I come on a 58.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Really an excellent creation form Sagliano Micca.
I like the "off tradition" in the design and finishes of this Barbisio

 

[ManofKent]

Lovely Manfred!

 

[alanfgag]

Lovely Manfred!

agree... beautiful.

 

[Chepstow]

Daniela, Richard and Alan , thanks a lot gentlemen ! It's a lovely old Barbisio, maybe I find a nice new Home for him!



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[mayserwegener]

Manfred, You had another great Flea Market day! Super Barbisio! You don't see many of these older ones. It has a great form.

 

[Chepstow]

Thanks Steve, I like the form too. A pity that he doesn't fit!



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[Daniele Tanto]

This a post dedicated to everyone that wants to check the situation of Italian hatters, today.
From the history of this historic shop:
".....In 1961 , together with the work of construction of Metro Line 1 is replaced with the decor of the store that has remained unchanged over the years. At the death of the owner happens to the now " adopted son " Luigi in business management. The descendant of the latter, Giancarlo gets used very young air of the store ; in his spare time studying the grants behaves as a typical " shop boy " ; helped his father in the small routine chores and enjoys playing "to do the hatter " in the back room .
In 1988 he succeeded his father in the family business and the idea is he want to block as well as market hats. Today Cabella 's Hat is one of the few activities of this industry sector remained in Milan. In a friendly environment , Giancarlo and his wife Orietta offering customers the numerous articles of their range , providing their expertise and experience of more than thirty years .
Here the link of Cabella handmade hats:
http://www.cappelleriacabella.com/it/default/25334-0-0/manifattura.aspx

 

[ManofKent]

Daniele - they certainly make some bold looking hats!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Yes I agree with you Richard. The ribbons are so much complex and sometimes too heavy.
The shapes of some porkpies are really elegant, but with some more simple ribbons and other choice of colors.

 

[gear-guy]

I own a Guerra and it is a wonderful hat. Only the ribbon could be better. It is ok but not attached great.