Italian brands hats

[Daniele Tanto]

Certainly the industry of caps in Italy has a large preponderance. Every day I see old men (older than me, I'm only sixtyone ) wearing peaked cap, a kind of weed even in the older generations now! The hat factories are about five active in Italy, and all produce for other brands. For example Cervo-Barbiso did not have a catalog for two years, is now out of the summer hats! Employees are not many in these "factories" that are much more similar to family firms , except Borsalino whose production is certainly broader view of its international recognition.
It 's true that in the Marche hat tradition is that of straw. Museum of the straw hat in Montappone http://www.museodelcappello.it/ Here you have an example of the straw " Iervecella " typical of Montappone http://www.sorbatti.it/negozio/articolo.cfm?cat=panama&id=495 . Sorbatti made ​​very good felt and fur felt hats (I have some of them) and prices are really interesting for the quality. Another district of straw hats are Florence and surrroundings. In Signa you can also visit the local museum http://www.museopaglia.it/sezioni/museo.php/ . In Florence proudly consider themselves the inventors of "paglietta o magiostrina" known in Anglo-Saxon countries such as boater .

 

[mayserwegener]

I saw that Sorbatti goes back to the early 1920s. They started later than most of the famous felt hat makers from farther north. Do you ever come across vintage (especially pre WWII) Sorbatti or any the other smaller makers (not Borsalino, Barbisio, Cervo, Panizza). It is rare to see any here on the FL. Occasionally one will pop up like this G. Moltene.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?75436-1940-s-Homburg-G-Moltene

My focus is on vintage German and Austrian makers so not up on the Italian vintage scene.

 

[besdor]

The Borsalino museum( now closed) has examples of other Italian hats pre WW II. I picked one up the last time I was there. It was from the original Vanzina factory. I remember the felt was so nice, it felt like butter. Almost like a Vimenet hat.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Mayserwegener I found and bought two hats, I presumed, were built in the 40's or 50's. There are two rare examples of hatters that have long disappeared from the Italian scene. A hat (in wool felt) is marked Grosso Valtz & Co., they were located in Andorno Micca which is the small village before Sagliano Micca (​​now there is continuity between the two areas) home of Barbiso, the first archeological factory that you meet on the road, after 200 meters there is another historical factory Cervo. The other is a Princeps manufactured by Cervo in a beautiful Velour called inside the hat "chamois". This was the surprise for you, although I see you are focused on the German and Austrian hats, they are often beautiful when not so much "Tyrolean". As soon as I get the chance I'll put the photos. It is not easy to find hats Italian before the Second World War, it is easier to find after this period even if most of the Italian hats from the 50's, 60's and 70's seems vanished.

 

[mayserwegener]

The Borsalino museum( now closed) has examples of other Italian hats pre WW II. I picked one up the last time I was there. It was from the original Vanzina factory. I remember the felt was so nice, it felt like butter. Almost like a Vimenet hat.

Alan has an old Vanzina which is one of the rare ones here (see link below). Robert (RLK) has a few old ones by less known Italian makers but I would have to do some searching.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?52652-Black-Beauties&p=1129965&viewfull=1#post1129965

Do you know when the Borsalino museum will reopen?

 

[mayserwegener]

Mayserwegener I found and bought two hats, I presumed, were built in the 40's or 50's. There are two rare examples of hatters that have long disappeared from the Italian scene. A hat (in wool felt) is marked Grosso Valtz & Co., they were located in Andorno Micca which is the small village before Sagliano Micca (​​now there is continuity between the two areas) home of Barbiso, the first archeological factory that you meet on the road, after 200 meters there is another historical factory Cervo. The other is a Princeps manufactured by Cervo in a beautiful Velour called inside the hat "chamois". This was the surprise for you, although I see you are focused on the German and Austrian hats, they are often beautiful when not so much "Tyrolean". As soon as I get the chance I'll put the photos. It is not easy to find hats Italian before the Second World War, it is easier to find after this period even if most of the Italian hats from the 50's, 60's and 70's seems vanished.

Would be great if you could post some photos of both hats. Grosso Valtz (Swiss or Austrian?) & C. (Andorno) is listed in the 1915 and 1925 Kelley's Directories I posted. I have a fairly large collection of pre WWII German and Austrian hats including a few Borsalinos made for the German market. One of my main focuses are pre WWII fine Austrian Velours. I am always looking but it's rare to find the old ones.

 

[besdor]

The Borsalino museum closed because the commune of Alessandria went bankrupt. I hope they will have funding soon.

 

[mayserwegener]

Sad to hear that. I am hoping too!

Update: It must be open on a limited basis because someone (Tripadvisor) visited the museum in December 2013.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Another area of Piedmont is famous for its hat factories is certainly the Biella area. Workshops often planted in the house existed here since the early nineteenth century, but the real transition to industry came with the birth of the company in 1862 and Rolando Barbisio Milanaccio . The hat must Barbisio his prodigious spread to the quality of work entrusted to the expert hands of the workers ' children and grandchildren of hatters . " Specializing in the production of exotic hats , his models were appreciated and exported to the markets of South America. In 1897 was founded the Cappellificio Cervo hat factory in Sagliano Micca linking its name to the famous " Princeps " synonymous with elegance and quality. In Adorno, a company was formed in 1885 by fifteen hatters: Grosso Valtz. In 1921 three are the entrepenaurs: Charles Rappa Verona, Charles Merlin and Ramasco Maggiorino Guasco to led the Grosso Valtz. The life of the factory Grosso Valtz ended with the bankrupt in 1958, a company that still in 1949 employed 138 employees.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! It doesn't mention anything about the founders. Valtz sounds Germanic so thought there might be a Swiss or Austrian connection.

 

[besdor]

You seems to know your hat history Daniele....maybe you can find me some new sources for felt hats!!!!!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Thank you Besdor of your appreciation. I have the competence of a buyer of hats that speaks and writes in Italian, this is a plus to know the Italian market. You have huge competence of those in the field of hats since he was born. Your knowledge of Italian hatters is one of the largest sellers of Borsalino in the world and this is a super plus. I'm sure you know the sources in Italy and Europe more and more better than me. When you come to Italy we can drink a glass of wine together talking about hats, of course :cool2:

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Super Princeps Front crown 10 cm. side crown 12.5 cm. Brim 6 cm. Ribbon 3.5 cm. Size EU 56
It is made (around the 50's) in Velour brilliant Gray with ribbon lighter gray by Cappellifficio Cervo. Super Princeps was the top production line.

 

[ManofKent]

Daniele - that's a beauty.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Grosso Valtz Front crown 10 cm. Brim 6.5 cm. Ribbon is the same material of the hat. Size EU 57
It is made in fur felt mixed with wool felt, tipical of Italian hats of medium quality. I guess it was from late 40's. Made by Cappellificio Grosso Valtz very near to Barbiso and Cervo factory.

 

[mayserwegener]

Super!

 

[mayserwegener]

Mutinelli "Fausto"

This Homburg was produced by Dante Mutinelli son of the founder of Mutinelli Cappelleria.

 

[Chepstow]

Lovely hat's Daniele and Steve!



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[ManofKent]

Steve, Daniele - Please keep them coming!

 

[besdor]

Very nice!!!!