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  1. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    The trousers for my suit are done, here are Parts Four, Five, and Six: http://vestisferrea.tumblr.com/post/69820406831/tailoring-a-vintage-inspired-suit-part-four http://vestisferrea.tumblr.com/post/70255989344/tailoring-a-vintage-inspired-suit-part-five...
  2. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Thanks, BK. Would it be possible to include the American draft as well? It would be very interesting to see the two together for the Vintage Tailoring thread.
  3. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Fantastic! That fishtail is perfect. Could you share the draft? I think it would be perfect for a suit I'm planning.
  4. Nick D

    Found some really interesting Moustache Wax

    Yes, most moustache waxes hold better than Murray's or any other pomade.
  5. Nick D

    Found some really interesting Moustache Wax

    I've got All Nighter in my 'tache right now. It has a pleasant scent, but you'll have to judge for yourself. Very hard in the tin but surprisingly easy application and very good hold in either tight or natural styles. I'm very pleased with it.
  7. Nick D

    I'm going to make a pair of Flannel Trousers - suggestions welcome

    I think double forward-facing pleats look and work best. There are buttons made specifically for trouser flys and braces, so a tailor will most likely be using them.
  8. Nick D

    Detachable Collars

    No, every advertisement and photo and film that you can see how they're worn, the collar is invariably on the outside of the shirt's collar band. How are you even attaching the back? The hole for the button is on the outside, unless it goes all the way through. That being said, I have seen...
  9. Nick D

    Holy grail? 1929 suit

    Yes, I'd wear this a few times a month in the cooler months (so, September-May.)
  10. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Home sewing patterns are drafted so that there doesn't have to be any manipulation with the iron. It doesn't mean you can't, but it isn't necessary and even in the '30s and '40s I think they assumed the home sewer wouldn't. In David Page Coffin's Making Trousers he discusses shaping a little...
  11. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    The '40s EvaDress pattern was my go-to pattern for quite a while. I started this thread with the EvaDress '30s trousers, which were not my first garment but my first attempt at vintage menswear. I have made a lot of trousers, each one is a little better than the last. I just got a new shirt...
  13. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    I'm working on a new three piece suit. It will be in brown wool (lighter weight than I'd like but I have to use what's available). Trousers and waistcoat from '40s patterns, the jacket will be a double breasted from a '40s Weldon reproduction new from EvaDress. Three patch pockets, I'll add a...
  14. Nick D

    Holy grail? 1929 suit

    Damian, it's a good thing we're not the same size or we'd be each other's only competition, apparently :lol:
  15. Nick D

    Holy grail? 1929 suit

    Okay, I like it. I'd wear it. It would be even better with a matching waistcoat. I'd like a couple louder suits in my wardrobe, though with the measurements and price it isn't going to be this one.
  16. Nick D

    Irony in the misconception that people who wear fedoras look ridiculous

    The defect would be begging the question. You have included the conclusion in the argument. It also seems to be a false dilemma. It's not purely black or white, it wasn't in the 30s and it isn't now. Placing inherent value on the choice of headgear is ad hominem. There is little 'health'...
  17. Nick D

    Non symmetry ties

    Ties are cut on the bias of the fabric, which allows them to stretch but can cause twisting and such over time if not cared for. The asymmetry can be corrected (don't just lay it out and iron it!), or if it's not too much it can be left alone. I rarely pass on ties just because they're a...
  19. Nick D

    Show us your TIES

    Laundry tag maybe, but then why 'storage'? If wardrobe, then why no other markings? The tag is held on by a plastic tab, the kind that are used with price tags, but it goes through the tag and the tie twice.
  20. Nick D

    Show us your TIES

    Yesterday's thrift find. Tag says Hand Made, paper tag on the end says Los Angeles Storage 755. Does it mean anything?
  21. Nick D

    FS: 1946 3-piece suit

    Ending today! 1946 dated 3-piece suit, from a British military tailor, navy blue with a double pinstripe. It's seen a lot of use but there is no mothing, the fabric's in good condition. Waistcoat and sleeves have been relined. Backs of the trouser cuffs have been mended, not visible when...
  22. Nick D

    No Front Dart

    Is this the EvaDress pattern? If so, when I made it I added front darts to the fronts and canvas. You could make a mockup and try it without, or with one.
  23. Nick D

    Show us your TIES

    Some recent buys Two Palm Beach ties. The burgundy one is Beau Brummel and has a $1 price tag. Wembley Three unmarked Richley. This one I bought for the fabric. Very odd nubby rayon.

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