I'm going to make a pair of Flannel Trousers - suggestions welcome

[simonc]

I am going to have a pair of Flannel Trousers made.

I'm using this cloth http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/208/suiting-and-jacketing-lengths/heavy-fox-flannel-soft-grey

I like heavy but beautiful and I'm going for this shape.

The Question is:
What weight/cloth to use on pocket bags?
Interesting button suggestions?
Stitching for such fabric? Thread?
High waist is essential, as are relatively wide legs but what kind of pattern, early 1950's?
Forward facing (British style pleats) one or two?
Tailoring tricks I should be aware of?
Side adjuster types, shapes, nickel, stainless steel, brass?
Single rear pocket with flap/lined?
Side pockets on the side seam.
Turn ups 1.5 inch, heel piece?
Minor nuances to take note of?
Any or all features that you'd like to see in your iconic pair of grey flannels.
Thanks.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Do you have a pattern? or a draft you're going to utilise? Have you made trousers before? If not, that's awfully expensive cloth to be jumping into the deep end with.

I'd advise sourcing a copy of Clarence Poulin's "Tailoring Suits the Professional Way". His instructions and descriptions are excellent, especially for trousers.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Baron is right... start off with the low end stuff first and cut through the mistakes, then when you have it down, go for the expensive dense wools.

 

[simonc]

Edit above. I will use a tailor to cut the cloth. I just want to go deep on the features. But thanks for the book suggestion I will get it.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Cutting is quite trivial for a trouser. It's just that putting together (esp. fork) can be tricky and the first few efforts might be a bit, erm. "home made" lookin'. Honestly, I cannot recommend enough making several pairs in cloths that you will wear but will not set you back £200 if you have a failure. You clearly have the skills (see shirt) required. I too wanted to just hump straight in with lovely fabrics, but took the advice of almost everyone to rein in my overconfidence and start out with drill cotton. The difference between the fourth pair of trousers and the first is astonishing.

I've been looking around for nice deco cinch buckles and can't find any I fancy, so good luck!

 

[Nyah]

I don't have much experience with braces (having started using them for the first time, just a couple months ago) but, it seems to me that the belt loops (if offered) should be low enough for a belt to clear the buttons. Likewise, couldn't the side-adjusters be at the same height as the brace buttons? It's hard to determine if a belt, when used with the pictured trouser, would clear the side-adjusters.

 

[Barmey]

1930s draft from the Cutters Practical Guide

 

[simonc]

BK when I say cutting I mean making from top to bottom. I am not tailoring these. They will be done by fine fingers. I am just discussing features here. Barmey the pattern looks awesome.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Ah! Title is misleading (and then I didn't bother to go back and read your EDIT. Apologies.

As Nyah says, side adjustor straps with belt loops can be a bit "belt and braces".

Barmey's pattern will of course produce a pair of trousers that look not much like the American ones you posted pictures of!

 

[simonc]

Yes that's pretty funny, I didn't notice the model I've shown offers every way possible to keep them from falling down.
It is my goal to remove all features to make the trousers as elegant as possible.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

It's not too uncommon! I have a few pairs that have all the features, both American and European.

 

[Two Types]

Avoid belt loops if you want the elegant look. But i think brace buttons are essential. Side adjusters are always good and offer that little bit extra comfort - especially for summer when braces can get a bit sweaty.

 

[simonc]

Thanks BK.
Great stuff will look to that TT - only the fabric is so heavy I wonder if that will be an issue? I guess it would then be braces or nothing.

 

[Nick D]

I think double forward-facing pleats look and work best.
There are buttons made specifically for trouser flys and braces, so a tailor will most likely be using them.

 

[simonc]

Cheers Nick.

 

[simonc]

Someone we all know performing last night in some flannel bags
http://youtu.be/SM11X9RuY44

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Good lord, those are awful!

 

[herringbonekid]

they look like saggy old track suit bottoms !

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Exactly! Pleated tracksuit bottoms. Man got some styled up strides, blud.

 

[simonc]

Yes the jewellery is also rather questionable. However back on track just received the flannel invoice. If you have any points you think I should consider with the flannels now's the time to chime in. Thanks.