I'm going to make a pair of Flannel Trousers - suggestions welcome

[Edward]

Personally, I like having the option of either braces or belt on trousers - I'd do that by dropping the side-adjusters, putting the buttons on the inside, and having a back buckle just below the loops. If dropping the loops, I'd still have just the one attached for hooking my keychain to.

 

[Two Types]

Simon: Have you identified a pattern to use yet?

 

[Nyah]

As Nyah says, side adjustor straps with belt loops can be a bit "belt and braces".

Actually, that's a totally different issue. I was trying to point out that the side-adjusters shouldn't be located in a place that allows a belt to cross over them. A belt over the adjusters will eventually abrade their straps. It looked like the O.P. wanted to have the option of belt or braces so, I was trying to help with that.

 

[Tomasso]

Personally, I like having the option of either braces or belt on trousers .

For me it's an 'either/or' proposition as I've found that the combo option weakens both systems. The beauty of the brace/suspender system is that the waistband can be eased (an inch or so) for maximum comfort while still allowing the trousers to hang properly. Trousers worn with a belt need to have the waistband fitted close to stay put. Therein lies the rub. Wearing a belt with a waistband that has been eased will have a negative effect on how the trousers hang and have an unsightly appearance to boot. So to have a workable combo system the waistband needs to be fitted close, which IMO, renders the use of braces/suspenders superfluous.

 

[simonc]

All three fastening methods does seem a lot, however perhaps the trousers were made that way for individual to chose, who knows? BK doesn't like both, I imagine he's suggesting pirate pants and I agree that would be wrong on classic flannel trousers. However Edward would prefer the option for either when he fancy's, so would I. For myself I am a member of the less is more school on just about everything. I'd whip off the loops, use the side adjusters to greater effect and employ braces. But that would create a very formal looking cut in my mind and I don't want that. I want 10/10 smartest casual the essence of grey flannel trousers. Belt loops suggest a sexy thin brown crocodile belt. Perhaps lose the side adjusters? I am familiar with heavy cloths and the issue is this cloth is so heavy it will most certainly need holding up some way shape or form. Right now I am open to suggestions. Btw are belt loops sewn into the waistband? No pattern yet TT.

 

[GHT]

Is this the sort of thing, that you have in mind? They are called 'Pegs' and were popular in the 1950's prior to the drainpipe look that came in with the advent of rock and roll.

 

[simonc]

That's pretty close. I want a flatter front, and closely shaped small back, less "grrr", more "oh I say".

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I think AC Lyles puts it well - if you want braces the trousers will be cut differently. I know from experience that wearing a belt with trousers intended for braces use will lead to bunching of excess fabric at the side seams (or wherever you choose to distribute the excess. Unsightly. With a pair of trousers cut close to the waist the suspenders become superfluous, as they are no longer suspending. They're just sitting there as a fashion statement.

My favourite combination is suspenders with side adjustors, or better a rear adjustment strap. The straps perform the function of a belt should one choose to go without suspenders. Trousers for belt loops would forego suspender buttons and side adjustors.

BK doesn't like both, I imagine he's suggesting pirate pants and I agree that would be wrong on classic flannel trousers.

 

[simonc]

I agree with you (BK), you know that, my issue is a sartorial question. Work wear and formal wear ironically support suspenders. But what of smart flannel trousers?
Are these worn with braces?

 

[Two Types]

I think side adjusters would be best suited for wear in those circumstances.

 

[simonc]

We are talking about 17oz flannel here.
Side Adjusters with belt loops?
Side Adjusters with suspender buttons?
Or Side Adjusters no buttons no loops, below?

On a different front what do you think of employing a one inch widening from the knee to the hem?

 

[Tomasso]

If you decide on side adjusters I would recommend the 'Daks top'. And have rubber (patches or strip) afixxed to the waistband. It will cling to your shirt and help the waistband stay put . That's the only adjuster system that has worked for me and I've tried them all.

 

[simonc]

Thanks AC.

 

[Nyah]

If this were an election, my vote would be for side-adjusters with suspender-buttons. I most-prefer suspenders but, not all of my shirts work with them and, I don't like belts.

 

[Two Types]

On a different front what do you think of employing a one inch widening from the knee to the hem?

You mean flares?

Side adjusters and brace buttons - yes.
Flares - No.

 

[simonc]

No, not flares. At all. Conical shape to the knee slightly widened from there to the hem by half inch.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

It was certainly done in the 30s, mostly for "collegiate"-style strides.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Another option appears on a pair of 20s/30s flannels/bags I have - a DAKS type waistband but instead of buttons it has an adjustor buckle. Same elasticated setup as in other DAKS-type arrangements.

 

[simonc]

Yes that's what I've settled on too, although thicker elastic, slightly more robust but flush side adjuster buckles, (suggestions welcome on interesting deco ones), rubber plasters, with suspender buttons. But so far so good. Thanks again guys.

Now to the back pocket shape, thoughts on early US Pinks pocket flap? Also I am considering rear darts or pleats, I really want the backside although loose to obtain a clean fitted and pert form into the waist.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Standard rear darts will do the job so long as the rest of the construction & sizing is right.