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  1. Nick D

    My First Trouser Project

    I think it was first published in 2009. I also use Cabrera, I found the jacket directions especially useful. I haven't read Poulin, I'll have to find him on ILL (though I have seen his jacket pocket directions). No, I double welt my flap pockets, I started doing that after reading the jacket...
  2. Nick D

    My First Trouser Project

    For the welts, either double or single, the distance from the slash of the opening to the seam is about 3/16" to 1/8". You can make the double welts according to Coffin and then slide the pocket flap in, which is what I do. A tip for making the flap, make a paper mockup of the finished flap...
  3. Nick D

    My First Trouser Project

    I always lengthen side pockets vertically, just because I like literally deep pockets. Finishing the edge of the pockets using Coffin's method is a little tricky but not as difficult as some vintage directions I've read. When joining the side seam, make sure the pocket bag doesn't get caught...
  4. Nick D

    My First Trouser Project

    Make the pocket bag wider, so that it covers the ends of the opening when finished. The inner part of the bag, against the back, only has to go to the opening, it's the outer part that you see that carries up to the waist, as you have it here. Widening the pocket bag will also give you more...
  5. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    I finished the waistcoat of the suit I'm working on: These are the posts on sewing it: http://vestisferrea.tumblr.com/post/70725507941/tailoring-a-vintage-inspired-suit-part-seven http://vestisferrea.tumblr.com/post/72699440870/tailoring-a-vintage-inspired-suit-part-eight...
  7. Nick D

    "Norman Davis" DB Suit

    I was looking at this suit last night. I really like it but it's a bit too big for me. It doesn't strike me as very bold look, so I'd think it would be fine for a '30s look. It's actually very similar to some suits in the earlier Thin Man films.
  8. Nick D

    What do you use to shave?

    I just received a Gillette super adjustable that belonged to my wife's grandfather, probably from the '70s. A really nice razor and a step up from the smaller travel Gillette I've been using the past few years.
  9. Nick D

    Bold Look, only German-made and from the 30's?

    I suspect it's a professionally done alteration, perhaps to resize or maybe there was damage to the front that was removed. The square fronts are unusual, but perhaps they were more common in Germany?
  10. Nick D

    1935 dated bespoke 3 piece suit

    Great button stance, nice fabric. The trouser tops are interestingly old-fashioned it seems. According to tailoring master Whife (I believe in The Art of Garment Making), "Trousers with plain tops-no waistband and no pleats-were at one time regarded as standard. Now, after a long period of...
  11. Nick D

    Show us your TIES

    That's why you need several of each! :)
  13. Nick D

    1932 Dated check pattern 3 piece suit

    Quite the suit. I really like the buttons, too.
  14. Nick D

    Show us your TIES

    Top notch!
  15. Nick D

    Show us your TIES

    Here's a find off eBay, it wasn't listed in any clothing category, I found it quite by accident. Onyx N' Gold by Resisto The lining is embossed: Resisto Tie "Sterling" Perfect Knotting, Wear Resisting Cravat Supreme Quality and Construction The wool tie interfacing is marked: This is the...
  16. Nick D

    Suit Quality Assistance?

    Red herring these days, just like a slanted breast pocket. An extra step on the machine. I've had a lot of jackets with working cuffs, all they've ever been is a pain and I've never unbuttoned them.
  17. Nick D

    Show us their suits

    I think it's more than the long exposure times in early photography, and there are certainly photos of smiling Victorians. Portraiture was a more formal thing than today, and especially when compared to what we think of photography in the digital age. It means nothing for a hundred photos to...
  19. Nick D

    1930's French 3 piece brown pinstripe High Stance 3 piece SB peak lapel suit

    I didn't see those photos (my internet connection is iffy at the moment). The fly buttons have been moved, you can see the original placement for the lower two visible, and the darts are way too close to the back seam.
  20. Nick D

    1930's French 3 piece brown pinstripe High Stance 3 piece SB peak lapel suit

    A man with a trim waist and well-muscled upper torso, or perhaps a fair bit of ease in the underarms or drape in the shoulders. Or poor measurements. The joy of buying online.
  21. Nick D

    1930's French 3 piece brown pinstripe High Stance 3 piece SB peak lapel suit

    It is a vest, just double breasted. Very nice, I'd love to have this suit. Too big for me, though.
  22. Nick D

    What Was The Last Movie You Watched?

    "Madhouse" (1974) with Vincent Price and Peter Cushing.
  23. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Thanks, gents :) Annixter, I tried machine finishing the seam edges a couple times and never cared for the results, but I don't have a serger. If I did I might do that by machine. The suits I've had that were tailor-made have always been hand overcast. As for buttonholes, as someone once...

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