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  1. jlee562

    Lets talk about hat shrinkage

    Not withstanding everything else in the post about the sizing of vintage hats.... The "vintage" most of us care about is 60's and earlier. If we are talking a "vintage" 1980's hat, sure, I would not be surprised if a 'genuine leather' sweatband shrunk up. But I'm going to go out on a limb and...
  2. jlee562

    Help with {date or identify} a hat please.....!

    Just spitballing but I don't think there's much you'd be able to tell comparing it to the model names of the modern Borsalino lineup. There's not a whole lot of consistent model names from the original factory. If you want to know because you want that specific 70's Borsalino, you might just be...
  3. jlee562

    Western, anyone?

    Pardon the photos of my TV screen, couldn't find better screen caps online. The crease is actually pretty involved. I can never remember all the cowboy creases, so anyone feel free to chime in if they know this one. But the hat does have some little ridges that pop out from the creased areas...
  4. jlee562

    Western, anyone?

    Well now I have to watch Liberty Valance again...which is great, because it's one of my fave westerns. It's a good story, so good that someone else had it on an episode of Pawn Stars. The embossment makes it more probable, but I dunno that I'd just buy that hat off Facebook marketplace based on...
  5. jlee562

    Help with {date or identify} a hat please.....!

    Can't tell you anything without pictures, but if the brim is that short, it sounds like a 60's hat, which are not exactly the pinnacle of Stetson hats.
  6. jlee562

    H’oly Grail Westerns and Fedoras

    Nutria makes a good hat. I'll get back to you on the beaver/mink felt whenever I get mine back from BSHW.
  7. jlee562

    Ask a question, get an answer

    100% speculative, but I'm thinking fabric wax. I used Otter Wax on a canvas jacket once and it kinda looks like that as you begin to apply it. I don't really get this kind of distressing though. Like, what is it supposed to be? An old, dirty hat (for lack of a better term) doesn't look anything...
  8. jlee562

    Western, anyone?

    This limited edition Optimo is stunning: Now I really think I really should send in my Nutria Quality BRE for that Optimo renovation.
  9. jlee562

    Help with {date or identify} a hat please.....!

    Well, we have divided opinions on whether or not it 'counts' if it doesn't say Open Road. I tend to be in the 'has to say it' camp, but at the same time my Stetson 100 doesn't say Open Road anywhere, but the tag does. So you see the issue. My initial impression on this one is not an OR. Mainly...
  10. jlee562

    H’oly Grail Westerns and Fedoras

    We are getting way off topic, but as the resident San Franciscan, I assure you, nobody cares if you use he/him as your pronouns.
  11. jlee562

    H’oly Grail Westerns and Fedoras

    The long and short of it is that the felts are denser. The mercury solution altered the texture of the individual fibers such that they felted together tighter. I can't swear to it, but I thought I remember reading somewhere around here that mercury felts were advantageous for black hats...
  12. jlee562

    H’oly Grail Westerns and Fedoras

    For further context regarding the 20/25/50 hats, that pricing existed when the lower price points might have been, say $11.95 for Royal Quality, or $15.95 for 3x, which are generally considered pretty good hats around here. There's quite a difference between mercury processed felts and those...
  13. jlee562

    Ask a question, get an answer

    The above linked Stitch awl guide from Brad Bowers is very helpful, it's what I used to learn. In lieu of a basting stitch, you can also pin it into place, but as you might imagine, that involves dodging the pins as you go. I'd also just take the ribbon off, especially it it has Hatco's...
  14. jlee562

    Akubra Overload

    Yes and no, but basically no. The binding can add a bit of structure to a brim, but the "reason" is aesthetics.
  15. jlee562

    What Hat Are You Wearing Today ?

    Aloha from the family vacation on Maui. One of the Hyatts out here has African penguins for some reason. With my #1 travel hat, the shantung Open Road. Sure, it's not as elegant as a natural Panama, but it takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'.
  16. jlee562

    Playboys on Parade!

    Store imprints were much more common back in the day. Check out the very excellent 'Show us your Vintage Hat Store' thread where we've connected certain hats to particular stores.
  17. jlee562

    Justified FX Hat

    Golden Gate Western Wear isn't too far from me, so I've seen the Knudsen one from across the counter. Can't speak to other elements of the build quality, but whenever I'm in the store, the Knudsen hats look like they're finished really well.
  18. jlee562

    What Hat Are You Wearing Today ?

    Try a bit of steam on the ribbon.
  19. jlee562

    hats in the heat : with or without liner ?

    With the standard, I am not a doctor and this is not medical advice caveat... I'm not sure that a liner is necessary for a Milan weave. I have two modern Milan hats and two vintage. The modern ones have a looser weave, and I don't think they're the 'proper' Milan wheat straw. And while they're...
  20. jlee562

    Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

    Yeah, I wonder what the science behind the felting is with the small increments like this. I was also just thinking about this because of the Ask a Question thread.....even if we knew that, for example, a 6x was y% Beaver....what are we really going to do with that information beyond having a...

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