What are the makers that DO NOT 'skiv their leather or use glue'?

[born113]

Aero has pattern issues for sure but their workmanship is as good as it gets.

You often praise Aero. Maybe you can help me?
The first thing that I notice every time in Aero on the web is that in all the photos the jackets are lying somewhere or the jackets are hanging on people who are not the most attractive to me.
Where can I find photos of Aero jackets without filters on slender wide-shouldered men in full height? I've been digging through this forum and other places for more than a month for several hours a day and I don't find almost anything I need.

Sorry for the offtop.

 

[Monitor]

You often praise Aero. Maybe you can help me?

I honestly have no idea. I'm not actively looking for pics of Aero jackets and don't think I ever was. Aero jackets are mostly seen on older, often chubbier guys, not sure who'd you want to see in one?

 

[born113]

I honestly have no idea. I'm not actively looking for pics of Aero jackets and don't think I ever was. Aero jackets are mostly seen on older, often chubbier guys, not sure who'd you want to see in one?

Among other things, I recently saw your idea that the HWM looks perfect on young people. But the main thing is that, as I expected, my figure is not yet fully compatible with Aero.

 

[MrProper]

Where can I find photos of Aero jackets without filters on slender wide-shouldered men in full height?

Broad-shouldered I am not, but tall and slender. lol
I have with three Aero but too few to give a good overview. Otherwise I could already make full height pictures.

 

[Monitor]

Among other things, I recently saw your idea that the HWM looks perfect on young people. But the main thing is that, as I expected, my figure is not yet fully compatible with Aero.

I just happen to saw two young(er) guys wearing black HWM jackets IRL & I thought they looked extremely cool. I was surprised how such a... Well, let's say conservatively styled leather jacket, stood out so much, enough for me to immediately ID it.
Highwayman is a very good looking jacket when correctly sized but all these UK jackets of the era that it is based off, are.

 

[born113]

Broad-shouldered I am not, but tall and slender. lol
I have with three Aero but too few to give a good overview. Otherwise I could already make full height pictures.

Thank you. It's not obligatory. I have already studied almost everything about your jackets and on all forums And it was very useful for me.

 

[Rgcards]

I posted before that I have well fitting jackets from several makers including aero. That doesn't mean I haven't had poor fitting jackets from multiple manufacturers. I had two freewheelers wich I parted with, and my sunset looks good but is quite uncomfortable. Early real McCoy is literally unwearable. Elmc didn't look right

The first thing that I notice every time in Aero on the web is that in all the photos the jackets are lying somewhere or the jackets are hanging on people who are not the most attractive to me.
Where can I find photos of Aero jackets without filters on slender wide-shouldered men in full height?

.

Well I'm not attractive. Many people would say I'm down right ugle. But I am 6' 1 with relatively broad shoulders. I'll post some pics

 

[Carlos840]

You often praise Aero. Maybe you can help me?
The first thing that I notice every time in Aero on the web is that in all the photos the jackets are lying somewhere or the jackets are hanging on people who are not the most attractive to me.
Where can I find photos of Aero jackets without filters on slender wide-shouldered men in full height? I've been digging through this forum and other places for more than a month for several hours a day and I don't find almost anything I need.

Sorry for the offtop.

I'm 6'2" 185lb, 42" chest, 33" waist, 19.5" shoulders:

Edit: the Cafe Racer is actually a very early Alexander Leathers, but it was made at a time where they still used exact copies of Aero patterns.

 

[Rgcards]

Everything looks good on Carlos

 

[Bfd70]

You often praise Aero. Maybe you can help me?
The first thing that I notice every time in Aero on the web is that in all the photos the jackets are lying somewhere or the jackets are hanging on people who are not the most attractive to me.
Where can I find photos of Aero jackets without filters on slender wide-shouldered men in full height? I've been digging through this forum and other places for more than a month for several hours a day and I don't find almost anything I need.

Sorry for the offtop.

Really? Surely there are a few pics in the what jacket are you wearing today thread.
Here’s my 30’s 1/2 belt....which is in the thread.

 

[Canuck Panda]

What's the orange-ish hide?

SB / Horween Lux Cognac. It's more of a reddish tan. Hard to capture the color.

 

[Aloysius]

Only one of my jackets is an Aero, but I *do* own multiple military jackets of different kinds and know their fits and patterns, so I'll just comment on these.

Let me give some examples:

Here is me in my Aero jacket, about 30 pounds heavier than I am now. It not only makes me look even fatter than I was at the time, but also was horribly tight and uncomfortable feeling in the chest and shoulders, despite not being small in those areas measurements-wise. If that isn't proof of a bad pattern, I don't know what is.

On the other hand, here is me in my old Mulholland. This is an off the rack jacket and the measurements were actually less ideal than the Aero, but look how nicely it fits me here.

The A-1 is meant to fit like a drapey leather cardigan, not like the usual jacket. This is at least a size too small. This may be on Aero, if they told you to order the wrong size, but I don't know. Certain jacket types lend themselves to up- and down-sizing, which just give a different look– others do not.

I'd also add that repro designs don't tell us much about Aero's pattern development skills, for better or for worse, because they are an already-existing pattern.

If the Highwayman pattern doesn't work on you, that's on Aero. If it's something like an A-1 or 42-18775-P A-2 or Indian Ranger, those are patterned on originals.

The Mulholland looks very nice but you don't seem trimmer in it.

If you want to pull the "it's an A1 jacket, it's not going to be as slim as a motorcycle jacket" card, I have that covered. Here is fat me in my RMC A2. Looks a million times better than the Aero, was off the rack, and was more comfortable than the Aero.

The A-2 here looks very nice, but you don't look any smaller than in the A-1… it's just a different type of jacket, which doesn't seem to be downsized like the A-1 above. And the shot itself is framed from further away.

I'm not telling you to do this, but if you wanted to do a fair comparison, A-1 to A-2 is not it. Even within A-2s there are dramatically different construction techniques and patterns, depending on the maker in contract.

I'm not saying Aero makes objectively bad jackets. I just think their patterns need work and that their propaganda about skiving is just that- propaganda.

On that basis, Buzz Rickson's and Real McCoy's redeveloping now-defunct fabric weaving and stitch slippage to be accurate to the techniques used in midcentury military jackets is "propaganda"; after all, people who buy those jackets will sometimes complain about this. Japanese sweatshirts and tees being knitted on 80 year old loop-wheeling machines is "propaganda"; after all, the tubular knit used by even Costco feels very good on the body already. The mills weaving denim on shuttle looms are doing 'propaganda'; after all, non-shuttle loomed denim can be just as strong and hardwearing and non-selvedge allows for better pattern tweaking!

I happen to appreciate all of these things, even though I don't need them in every garment. If you're going to take this line of attack on Aero for preserving a more labor-intensive method that is, I agree, unnecessary– you need to apply this to the Japanese too.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

So here's a comparison shot and maybe someone can pick up on the variables, but I'm leaning towards some sort of human error and variance when constructing. As far as the sheene/cafe racer, it's a very unforgiving pattern.

Sheene 23 ptp 18.5 shoulder
Racer 23.25 ptp, 18.75 shoulder and gussets

Is that slightly bigger racer the difference? They both have same issue but sheene is extreme and comfort wise it's not even close, the racer feels completely different with the weight distribution.

Is the overlap of the seams the key?

 

[ton312]

One more time, with feeling….

 

[ton312]

One more time, one more time again. I loved all my Aero’s. My interests have shifted but I still will say that if I buy anything new, ever again, it’ll be from Aero.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Only one of my jackets is an Aero, but I *do* own multiple military jackets of different kinds and know their fits and patterns, so I'll just comment on these.



The A-1 is meant to fit like a drapey leather cardigan, not like the usual jacket. This is at least a size too small. This may be on Aero, if they told you to order the wrong size, but I don't know. Certain jacket types lend themselves to up- and down-sizing, which just give a different look– others do not.

I'd also add that repro designs don't tell us much about Aero's pattern development skills, for better or for worse, because they are an already-existing pattern.

If the Highwayman pattern doesn't work on you, that's on Aero. If it's something like an A-1 or 42-18775-P A-2 or Indian Ranger, those are patterned on originals.

The Mulholland looks very nice but you don't seem trimmer in it.



The A-2 here looks very nice, but you don't look any smaller than in the A-1… it's just a different type of jacket, which doesn't seem to be downsized like the A-1 above. And the shot itself is framed from further away.

I'm not telling you to do this, but if you wanted to do a fair comparison, A-1 to A-2 is not it. Even within A-2s there are dramatically different construction techniques and patterns, depending on the maker in contract.



On that basis, Buzz Rickson's and Real McCoy's redeveloping now-defunct fabric weaving and stitch slippage to be accurate to the techniques used in midcentury military jackets is "propaganda"; after all, people who buy those jackets will sometimes complain about this. Japanese sweatshirts and tees being knitted on 80 year old loop-wheeling machines is "propaganda"; after all, the tubular knit used by even Costco feels very good on the body already. The mills weaving denim on shuttle looms are doing 'propaganda'; after all, non-shuttle loomed denim can be just as strong and hardwearing and non-selvedge allows for better pattern tweaking!

I happen to appreciate all of these things, even though I don't need them in every garment. If you're going to take this line of attack on Aero for preserving a more labor-intensive method that is, I agree, unnecessary– you need to apply this to the Japanese too.

Actually, the A2 is downsized from the A1. Yet I still have better range of motion in it.

I'm not arguing that I actually look slim in any of those photos, that's why I got in shape afterward. I'm saying the Mulholland is far more flattering. No, it's not a 1 to 1 comparison and I'm not saying it is. I'm just trying to give some visual examples of how I felt about that Aero jacket.

I am also clearly not the only one who feels this way about their jackets. Others like Aero's patterns and that's fine as well. I'd still be open to getting a non-military Aero jacket, but I'm not seeking one out either.

 

[MrProper]

So here's a comparison shot and maybe someone can pick up on the variables, but I'm leaning towards some sort of human error and variance when constructing. As far as the sheene/cafe racer, it's a very unforgiving pattern.

Sheene 23 ptp 18.5 shoulder
Racer 23.25 ptp, 18.75 shoulder and gussets

Is that slightly bigger racer the difference? They both have same issue but sheene is extreme and comfort wise it's not even close, the racer feels completely different with the weight distribution.

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Is the overlap of the seams the key?
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I do not think it is the seams.
My 5* has the same seams and also gussets and I have no crease.
I think the pattern of the Cafe Racer/Sheene is not meant to wear it really tight. My too large Cafe Racer had the creases significantly less.
I still maintain that the neck to shoulder angle is too shallow. This causes the shoulder to sag and the "excess" material, combined with the small armholes, compresses into a crease.
If you raise or pad the shoulders, the crease becomes less.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

I do not think it is the seams.
My 5* has the same seams and also gussets and I have no crease.
I think the pattern of the Cafe Racer/Sheene is not meant to wear it really tight. My too large Cafe Racer had the creases significantly less.
I still maintain that the neck to shoulder angle is too shallow. This causes the shoulder to sag and the "excess" material, combined with the small armholes, compresses into a crease.
If you raise or pad the shoulders, the crease becomes less.

yes, the excess material gathering is the problem. That's why when the jacket is closed, it's not as bad because there's pull to keep things taut. I'm going to try some padding in the shoulder to give some lift to see what happens (great idea, thanks). Wondering if a tailor can tweak without ripping everything apart, i.e. maybe adding some padding underneath or a little pull or tuck. I love the jacket overall, leather is incredible, but I always consider selling because it's not the usual "perfect" fit LOL.

 

[high-maintenance]

One more time, one more time again. I loved all my Aero’s. My interests have shifted but I still will say that if I buy anything new, ever again, it’ll be from Aero.
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You sir have a magnificient collection.
Which aero jacket do you think is most comfortable and non-restricting?
And is your J106 motorcycle jacket comfortable around the waist (bottom hem)?
I have some excessive girth so bottom hem is an important factor for me when choosing the size but Aero does not provide the bottom hem measurements... (my size 44 cafe racer fits well in the chest and shoulder but too tight around the torso when zipped up)

 

[red devil]

already wanted to use this expression 100 times, but I did not know if it was possible to do it in a tolerant society

I think you should use it if you want to, I personally think there is no alternative to this expression when you want to convey just that

On that basis, Buzz Rickson's and Real McCoy's redeveloping now-defunct fabric weaving and stitch slippage to be accurate to the techniques used in midcentury military jackets is "propaganda"; after all, people who buy those jackets will sometimes complain about this. Japanese sweatshirts and tees being knitted on 80 year old loop-wheeling machines is "propaganda"; after all, the tubular knit used by even Costco feels very good on the body already. The mills weaving denim on shuttle looms are doing 'propaganda'; after all, non-shuttle loomed denim can be just as strong and hardwearing and non-selvedge allows for better pattern tweaking!

The Japanese are not pretending that their technique is superior to others. And they are not saying something along the lines of "our jackets are superior to Scottish made jackets because of this feature" whereas Aero...

One more time, with feeling….
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@ton312 , you are not fair, you make any jacket look good lol

Case in point the Five Star I made looked like a sack of potato on me and it looks great on you.

Edit: @born113 , don't be shy about using that expression lol