Show us your suits

[Jovan]

Some alterations tailors have probably been doing normal (~1.5") cuffs for a long time. I've found it's only people like us that usually want 2" cuffs, a specific lapel width, etc. with their suits. Maybe he didn't ignore it so much as forgot?

 

[Nonchalant]

My tailor was quite an old hand, and had been in the business since 1957.

He was impressed with the high waisted trousers I brought him, in fact he told me he remembered making them that way back in the 1950's.

I asked him to keep the cuffs at 2" and let the trousers down another inch using the more than sufficient material in the hem, for just a slight brake, or none at all. I explained to him that's the way they were worn in the 1930's and 1940's...

He was interested in my story, and listened attentively...

Unfortunately, he then proceeded to do what he wanted, eliminating the cuffs altogether and letting the trousers down as much as possible. The end result looks alright for a modern pair, but far too long for the 1940's. I think he was trying to do me a favor. Besides, I don't want to look like I stepped out of a time machine, right?

I suppose it's harder to tell a tailor what to do when they've been around so long. Some of them are quite firmly set in their ways as to what looks right!

 

[Jovan]

That is the case sometimes, too. iammatt has told stories about how some bespoke tie makers haven't gone any smaller than 3.75 inches. I personally think forcing your own aesthetic to that extent is ridiculous, as such a width doesn't work on everyone. Someone I know from another forum has added something because it had popular demand for his clothing line, despite that he doesn't like it himself. I would do the same, personally. (Short of baggy-ass jeans and the like. )

 

[Fletch]

There's a difference here between the customer and the tailor. The customer knows what's right for him, but the tailor, especially an old-school individual, know's what's right, period, and won't easily deviate from it.

I'm not surprised Non had trouble with a tailor who had come up in the 50s. The pre-war styles were thought to be in embarrassingly bad taste then, and there really was a very limited "right" way to dress. He obviously learned that lesson well and never forgot it in the years after.

 

[Nonchalant]

My tailor was sort of an "Organization Man" type, come to think of it.... I should have been wary of him after he told me how he always does things the correct way, even when a costumer comes in with (according to him) an outlandish request. Until I brought him the vintage suit trousers I only had him make alterations on modern designer suits, so there was never a problem.

In his opinion, if people didn't like things done in the proper fashion, they could go to some younger tailor who probably didn't know what he was doing anyhow.

Of course, I thought he and I were pals. I never realized he might do something like that to me! :eusa_doh:

 

[Nonchalant]

Baron Kurtz's late 1940s-early 1950s 2 button suit

As requested, a great suit which was picked up by the expert eye of Baron Kurtz and then purchased by me on the forums. You can read his description (and see more pictures) here: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=225927&postcount=584

Single breasted, 3 piece suit in light brown with an orange windowpane pattern. I had never owned a vintage SB suit before this one, as I've always been partial to double breasted suits. I suppose this is because a DB suit is somehow more "vintage looking" (which isn't necessarily true). BK's suit, with it's fabric and cut, is the kind that just screams vintage. I've worn it several times since I bought it from him -- it's quickly become one of my favorites.



Here you go, Fletch (playing trumpet in it, badly):


Now where's my baton...

 

[Feraud]

My tailor was quite an old hand, and had been in the business since 1957.

He was impressed with the high waisted trousers I brought him, in fact he told me he remembered making them that way back in the 1950's.

I asked him to keep the cuffs at 2" and let the trousers down another inch using the more than sufficient material in the hem, for just a slight brake, or none at all. I explained to him that's the way they were worn in the 1930's and 1940's...

He was interested in my story, and listened attentively...

Unfortunately, he then proceeded to do what he wanted, eliminating the cuffs altogether and letting the trousers down as much as possible. The end result looks alright for a modern pair, but far too long for the 1940's. I think he was trying to do me a favor. Besides, I don't want to look like I stepped out of a time machine, right?

I suppose it's harder to tell a tailor what to do when they've been around so long. Some of them are quite firmly set in their ways as to what looks right!

Favor schmavor, is he doing the alterations for free? Don't think so. He is obliged to satify the customer. After listening with interest in your comments he proceeded to do what he wanted?? If he is unwilling to compromise his "priniciples" than he should tell you before he screws with you clothes.
I would find a tailor who is willing to work with me not against me.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Nonchalant, i am so, SO glad that you were not talking about the trousers to that windowpane suit. I was having heart attacks here that a tailor had ruined anything to do with that suit. whew.

Looks great, by the way. But, then, i expected nothing less of that suit. the only way that one would ever look bad is if it didn't fit. It was truly spectacular fabric . . . I'm glad to have passed it on to someone who'll appreciate it.

bk

 

[Nonchalant]

Goodness, no... If something terrible had happened to that suit I'd be afraid to show my face around here.

The episode with the trousers happened about a year ago, when I first started collecting vintage. Since then I've taught myself to sew. I can perform minor alterations - but some jobs like the shortening of sleeves are well beyond my ability and need to be handled by a professional tailor. I just haven't had the courage to go to one yet. I have a green DB belt backed suit from the 1930s which has been sitting in my closet for many months because of this. If anyone knows of a tailor in the Orange County, Long Beach or LA area that can be trusted with vintage clothing, let me know.

Next time I go to a tailor, aside from being firm on what I want done, I'm going to print out a bunch of pictures from this forum, like Marc Chevalier's posts from Esquire and show it to him. Hopefully the photographic evidence will work in my favor.

 

[Fletch]

"California" style?

Am I correct in the impression that the sport-backed jacket was a California phenomenon originally? And that it was somewhat slow to be adopted amongst the Ivy League-oriented east coast market?

They do seem to be more common amongst our SoCal correspondents, altho the stats may be skewed by the fact that so many of our most serious vintage gents are in the area to begin with.

(Possibly irrelevant datapoint: Years ago, for an unrelated project, I gathered up as many photos as I could find of NBC's experimental television operations in the late 30s. I couldn't help noticing one particularly dapper cameraman, always seen in a bellows back suit and white shoes where the other crew were in plain business dress. I later identified "Mr. Bellows" as a former sound engineer for Fox Film studios!)

 

[reetpleat]

Goodness, no... If something terrible had happened to that suit I'd be afraid to show my face around here.



What I am dying to know is did he leave enough fabric so that you could have them redone with a cuff. If not, that would truly suck and you might even consider demanding the replacement with a similar suit.

If he left enough to recuff, tell him you will not pay and take them elsewhere.

Pants hemmed and cut are ruined for anyone taller than you forever.

A couple of hints. Since I am short, I alwasy ask them to leave extra fabric on the inside so that if I ever pass the suit along it will not be cut short.

secondly, if anyone ever cuts off a lot of fabric, too short for the cuff, at least get the fabric. You could always make a cuff out of it and sew it on to the bottom. I have never done it, but I can imagiene to would not be too hard.

Thirdly, pin a note or something. If they go out to someone who does a lot at a time, they might forget.

I used to have great luck at a drycleaner. Seven bucks for cuffs or waist, sent out to a vietnamese woman. She did a great jopb and never argued about what I wnated. As for therest, In San Francisco we had an Argentinian tailor in the basement. Not sure if he is still working with Al at Al's Apparel. ANyone Know? His name was Marco.

 

[Vintage Betty]

Are women's suits ok to post here?

Here's my Lilli ANN Fitted Suit in imported French Silk.

For some reason, the pictures show me about 20 pounds heavier than I really am.

All the buttons have been removed, and replaced with 1960's plastic buttons and 1960's men's cufflinks in the french cuffs. Believe it or not, it works.

 

[happyfilmluvguy]

Camera's supposedly add 10 pounds, but I can't really see that in general. You can always stretch an image to make it appear thinner.

Great suits all around.

 

[Vintage Betty]

Aren't you nice!

I'll take some more photos in the next couple weeks.

Vintage Betty

 

[Jovan]

Please, more photos. It's nice to see the other gender has a healthy interest in suits, too.

 

[Jovan]

Old picture of me wearing a three piece. You can't see the waistcoat so well because the coat is a bit high fastening. This was my first attempt at a real suit, and not such a great one. I think I got the shirt and tie right, as well as the pocket square and flower, but the coat's a bit long and the armholes rather low (hence why I'm showing so much cuff).

 

[MudInYerEye]

Mind if I dance with yo' date?

 

[happyfilmluvguy]

Aren't you nice!

I'll take some more photos in the next couple weeks.

Vintage Betty

It's a very nice suit.

 

[Mr. Rover]

2 new suits from reetspleat

I've been on a suit binge the last month! I bought 2 suits from reetspleat, which I promised to post pictures of and a 50s boys suit.

I just got the 2 suits from reetspleat back from the tailor today and took some quick pictures (sorry for the crappy lighting and blousy shirt)

The first is a 6x2 blue/black/red glenn plaid- I love this fabric! No labels, but the cut is pretty post-war: kinda baggy with low button placement. No matter what I do, it looks like I'm slouching....I think the higher button stance looks better on us shorter guys. The pants are double pleated with 2" cuffs.

 

[Mr. Rover]

The second suit is a medium weight gray/blue 4x1 Hollywood drape suit. I'm really starting to like 4x1 suits! The shoulder pads on this were huuuuge- I had them cut down a little bit, because they looked like football uniform pads. Yes, yes- blasphemous to some, but I would rather have a suit that fits. The pants are great- drop loops, front brace buttons on the outside, double forward English pleats. I had to let out the hem a little bit, so my tailor used faux cuffs to keep them at 2". Only label is on the hanger loop saying that the lining is made of rayon.