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First time buying fedora and introducing myself

Messages
10,883
Location
vancouver, canada
I would gladly buy a vintage hat but lets me honest it's would be hard to find one in size 61 in the USA and even harder in Europe where I am from. For a first hat, I was looking to buy from Hutbreiter in Germany, I was looking in that model: https://www.hutbreiter.de/huete/fil...uenchen-fedora-bogart-form-monika_16794_61247

Firstly I know that they were sold open crown but from all the photos from that era I can see they look taller than today's modern one on an average, and I would definitely prefer one with taller crown so that the reason I was asking you crown height. I will rephrase differently this time: What dimensions would define a high crown so I can know what to look in off the rack hats?

Secondly: I will if I see that he is competent

Thirdly: Thanks for the honesty
A 6" (15cm) open crown gives you lots of felt to work with. With a shallow centre dent you can have a 5 1/2" finished crown height or with a deep teardrop a 4 3/4" crown at the pinch.
 
Messages
10,883
Location
vancouver, canada
I would gladly buy a vintage hat but lets me honest it's would be hard to find one in size 61 in the USA and even harder in Europe where I am from. For a first hat, I was looking to buy from Hutbreiter in Germany, I was looking in that model: https://www.hutbreiter.de/huete/fil...uenchen-fedora-bogart-form-monika_16794_61247

Firstly I know that they were sold open crown but from all the photos from that era I can see they look taller than today's modern one on an average, and I would definitely prefer one with taller crown so that the reason I was asking you crown height. I will rephrase differently this time: What dimensions would define a high crown so I can know what to look in off the rack hats?

Secondly: I will if I see that he is competent

Thirdly: Thanks for the honesty
The hutbreiter hats seem on the expensive side for a light felt with a cloth sweat band. Akubra hats offer far better value for your money.
 
Messages
19,465
Location
Funkytown, USA
I would gladly buy a vintage hat but lets me honest, it would be hard to find one in size 61 in the USA and even harder in Europe where I am from. For a first hat, I was looking to buy from Hutbreiter in Germany: https://www.hutbreiter.de/huete/fil...uenchen-fedora-bogart-form-monika_16794_61247

Firstly, I know that they were sold open crown, but all the photos from that era I can see they look taller than today's modern one on an average, and I would definitely prefer one with taller crown, so that's the reason I was asking you about crown height. I will rephrase differently this time: What dimensions would define a high crown so I can know what to look in off the rack hats?

Secondly: I will, if I see that he is competent.

Thirdly: Thanks for your honesty.

Most vintage open crown hats came with a 5 1/2" crown, on average. You can certainly find some with 6" crowns, but they're outliers.

Depending on the crease, a bashed hat is usually 4 1/2" or so.

The Akubra suggestions are good. The Camp Draft has an OC height over 5 1/2", and the brim width is about 2 7/8". Not certain about the Fed IV, as I don’t have one.

You're right, though. A vintage in a 61 cm is a rare bird.
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,800
Location
Central Ohio
Anyway, just to show how versatile thin ribbons can be, (goes well with either dress wear or casual wear), this is Robert Ryan sporting a thin ribbon with casual wear in the movie "Bad Day at Black Rock". Robert Ryan stood 6'4 and the profile of this thin ribbon suits his overall features well. The crown height was more than likely 5 1/2 inches with a brim width, (I'm guessing), at 2 5/8 inches. The Campdraft is very similar but with a wider brim, as Fruno pointed out, at 2 7/8 inches.

Black-Rock-2.jpg


Black-Rock-3.jpg


Black-Rock-1.jpg
 

Monte

Practically Family
Messages
602
Location
North Dakota
Hufvud has some large hats for sale, or makes custom order. I'm late in the conversation, so not sure if you're sold on a certain hat or price. I'm also happy w my Agnoulita custom.
 

Aleksio

New in Town
Messages
42
The hutbreiter hats seem on the expensive side for a light felt with a cloth sweat band. Akubra hats offer far better value for your money.
You know what, you are right. Personalty I prefer Akubras over them but if I would order from Germany shipping would be cheap, and I won't need to pay customs. Still, I think even if I order from Australia it shouldn't cost so much more than from Germany, but the hat would definitely serve me better thought the years.
 

Aleksio

New in Town
Messages
42
Most vintage open crown hats came with a 5 1/2" crown, on average. You can certainly find some with 6" crowns, but they're outliers.

Depending on the crease, a bashed hat is usually 4 1/2" or so.

The Akubra suggestions are good. The Camp Draft has an OC height over 5 1/2", and the brim width is about 2 7/8". Not certain about the Fed IV, as I don’t have one.

You're right, though. A vintage in a 61 cm is a rare bird.
Thank you, that was information I was looking for. Between Camp Draft and Fed IV, it's a hard decision, but I'm leaning a little bit more to the first one.
 

Aleksio

New in Town
Messages
42
Just a guess, but possibly a 2 3/4. Mike Mazurki was a big guy. He stood 6'5.
Nice, same height as me. Thanks for that, now I have a good example of a big guy wearing a wider brimmed fedora and I must say that it looks better than I imagined and in good proportion for a height!
 

Aleksio

New in Town
Messages
42
Anyway, just to show how versatile thin ribbons can be, (goes well with either dress wear or casual wear), this is Robert Ryan sporting a thin ribbon with casual wear in the movie "Bad Day at Black Rock". Robert Ryan stood 6'4 and the profile of this thin ribbon suits his overall features well. The crown height was more than likely 5 1/2 inches with a brim width, (I'm guessing), at 2 5/8 inches. The Campdraft is very similar but with a wider brim, as Fruno pointed out, at 2 7/8 inches.

Black-Rock-2.jpg


Black-Rock-3.jpg


Black-Rock-1.jpg
Wow, pictures really helps to understand a lot better hat anatomy then just words on forum. I think you got me sold with that, before I wasn't sure which one should between Fed IV and Campdraft, but now I'm pretty sure I will take the latter. Thanks once again, you and all participants in this topic.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,113
Location
London, UK
From your description and your casual dress style I believe a thin ribbon like a Campdraft from Akubra would suit you well. Thin ribbons are pretty versatile and go well with either casual or dress wear. It has dimensions somewhat close to what you're looking for. It's an open crown fedora that you can shape to a crease you prefer, and it comes in different colors other than the one shown.

Good call. I've worn a CD deluxe with both a suit and a pairing of jeans and a leather halfbelt (the latter had a strong 'extra from Near Dark vibe). Definitely works well with both.

Interesting that they don't specify if it is fur felt, or a blend or. It is just listed as 'felt'.

Yes, they do that a lot. (the main signifier of furfelt or wool on the website seems to be going by price). The actual hat is definitely furfelt, though. I don't know why they don't list that more clearly; I can only assume that their market is either people who know exactly what they're buying or people who aren't fussy. Possibly a mix of both!


Nice, thanks a lot for that! They look beautiful. How would you compare them with Akubras quality wise? I would also like to know how they behave in the rain and how much to expect shrinkage to occur?

Based on my own experience, I'd say about the same. A somewhat different animal per description above (for more details, see my posts from last October on the 'New Hats' thread), but I couldn't honestly say one was better than the other. The Akubra has a slight edge for me in terms of shape - that squarer-sided crown - but once bashed, it's really hard to see much difference.



Thank you, that was information I was looking for. Between Camp Draft and Fed IV, it's a hard decision, but I'm leaning a little bit more to the first one.

Both great options. The only thing to be aware of is that the Campdraft isn't a snap brim. As standard, it comes with the brim up the whole way round. I steamed mine down in front so while it doesn't snap, it has the look of a snap brim in the down position. Five easy minutes (if that) with the kettle....
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,800
Location
Central Ohio
Y
Wow, pictures really helps to understand a lot better hat anatomy then just words on forum. I think you got me sold with that, before I wasn't sure which one should between Fed IV and Campdraft, but now I'm pretty sure I will take the latter. Thanks once again, you and all participants in this topic.
You're very welcome buddy. I believe you'll find the Campdraft to be a good choice for its versatility. Whether Campdraft or Fed IV, or any other style, my experience with Akubra is that they make a solid hat that should you last many years.

*last you*
 
Last edited:

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,113
Location
London, UK
Y
You're very welcome buddy. I believe you'll find the Campdraft to be a good choice for its versatility. Whether Campdraft or Fed IV, or any other style, my experience with Akubra is that they make a solid hat that should you last many years.

Yes, there's nothing in my experience to touch them in terms of a production line hat for that price.... and once you get into spending much more than that, custom starts to offer better value than OTR imo.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,113
Location
London, UK
Hufvud has some large hats for sale, or makes custom order. I'm late in the conversation, so not sure if you're sold on a certain hat or price. I'm also happy w my Agnoulita custom.


I've yet to pick up an Agnoulita, but there's a few I've favourited on their Etsy store, with a hopeful view to buying one maybe next Spring. The TFL consensus among those who have them seems to be they're on a par with what Akubra would be if they offered a range of customisation options, which sounds right in my wheelhouse.
 
Messages
19,465
Location
Funkytown, USA
Good call. I've worn a CD deluxe with both a suit and a pairing of jeans and a leather halfbelt (the latter had a strong 'extra from Near Dark vibe). Definitely works well with both.



Yes, they do that a lot. (the main signifier of furfelt or wool on the website seems to be going by price). The actual hat is definitely furfelt, though. I don't know why they don't list that more clearly; I can only assume that their market is either people who know exactly what they're buying or people who aren't fussy. Possibly a mix of both!




Based on my own experience, I'd say about the same. A somewhat different animal per description above (for more details, see my posts from last October on the 'New Hats' thread), but I couldn't honestly say one was better than the other. The Akubra has a slight edge for me in terms of shape - that squarer-sided crown - but once bashed, it's really hard to see much difference.





Both great options. The only thing to be aware of is that the Campdraft isn't a snap brim. As standard, it comes with the brim up the whole way round. I steamed mine down in front so while it doesn't snap, it has the look of a snap brim in the down position. Five easy minutes (if that) with the kettle....

I see this a lot on here and don't discount your experience; however, I have four CDs and have never had to steam the brim down.
 

Aleksio

New in Town
Messages
42
Could be it's been changed? - now I think about it, I bought my DLX in 2010(!). I'll watch out for that - if it's got a snap in the brim now that's a definite plus. :)
That would be an excellent bonus for me too. What about Antelope Felt Hat you mention before, does it have snap brim?
 
Messages
19,465
Location
Funkytown, USA
Could be it's been changed? - now I think about it, I bought my DLX in 2010(!). I'll watch out for that - if it's got a snap in the brim now that's a definite plus. :)

I bought mine over the period 2013-2021. You're not the only one who has said so, though. Several FLers have your experience. (shrug)
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,113
Location
London, UK
That would be an excellent bonus for me too. What about Antelope Felt Hat you mention before, does it have snap brim?

It does, yes.
20240123_094735.jpg


Not so obvious from this angle (I don't have better shots to hand), but you can sort of see it.

I bought mine over the period 2013-2021. You're not the only one who has said so, though. Several FLers have your experience. (shrug)

Interesting, - I wonder if there were different batches that varied that way? Do Akubra make all their stuff in the one factory still, or did they ever outsource a production run? That could explain it (though I think I read somewhere they only use the one Aussie factory).
 

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