Show Us Your OVERCOATS

[Michael A]

The Addison coat cuts a finer silhouette for me! The Loden seems to fit with those military derived shapeless coats although they are extremely practical!

The 70's full length leather coats makes me think of Ozzy Osborne

I too like the silhouette of the Addison. It has great drape and swing and the Harris tweed is a good one. Depending on the weather I will probably wear a different Addison Harris Tweed coat tomorrow. That said, I like all of them quite a lot for one reason or another. And if I'm not going out on my bicycle I wear a long coat as my first choice.

Michael

 

[Michael A]

Another Addison Clothes for Armstrong's Dept Store.
P1220006 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1220008 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Also in Harris Tweed
P1220009 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1220010 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
This one in greys and blue greys
P1220021 by Michael A2012, on Flickr

Have a good one.

Michael

 

[Michael A]

Invertere Coat, Made in England by Invertere of Newton Abbot.
12-3-2016 Today's Clothes by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Tightly woven cotton shell, wool and cotton blend liner, alpaca pile collar
P1220032 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1220033 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Excellent coat, but not as waterproof as Loden. Makes me think it was later production as they used an extremely tightly woven cotton in earlier days. Inside buttons on the vent and at the bottom of the front for wind protection.
P1220038 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr

Michael

 

[Michael A]

Today a pretty standard overcoat. Double breasted, peak lapel with epaulets.
P1220099 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Pure wool and labeled to Clancy's Ltd Cedar Rapids Iowa.
P1220100 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
I was wearing it while out and about today when it was breezy and in the 30s. It was completely servicable.
12-5-2016 Today's Clothes by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Made in the USA.

Michael

 

[Hal]

You have shown three excellent coats in succession, Michael; the last is more-or-less the classical British Warm.
While I realise that in sporting or outdoor situations jackets and trousers, in appropriate fabrics, are the most practical clothes to wear, it seems a shame that, over suits or sports-jacket combinations, proper full-length coats (as especially in Michael's postings 1322 and 1324) are so rarely seen today. Surely when it's windy, cold and/or wet one needs to have the knees covered by the outer coat? I know people will say "what about the inconvenience getting in and out of cars and other vehicles?" yet that is a very little extra trouble compared to both the practicality and the better appearance of the long coat. Ski-jackets and the like have been worn over suits for perhaps 50 years by some, and neither look good nor do their job well.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Michael; the last is more-or-less the classical British Warm.

Exactly right, it's bang on. Some versions, arguably the true original, would have a more light gray tone, but pish posh. I've unfortunately never been able to find one of these, so well done Michael!

 

[Doctor Damage]

Looking back, our members have been posted some really great stuff lately. Looking forward to more, guys!

On topic, I recently took my 20 year old Hugo Boss overcoat to the dry cleaners. I never wear it anymore, but it was dirty and needed cleaning. The dry cleaners, of course, buggered it up -- it's clean, but they've got iron marks on the front chest, which looks like it might have still been damp or had some cleaning fluid still in it when the ironed it. Now you can see the imprint of the inside pockets on the outside. Plus some other bad ironing. Now I have to find a good cleaner to fix it. Not happy!

 

[Michael A]

Thanks guys. I was beginning to think I was the only one around here that still wore overcoats. And thanks for the info on the British Warm Hal. I found a description online and it said they were traditionally done in a 30 oz melton. That is some serious cloth. I don't think mine would be that heavy.

Bummer that the cleaners gave your coat a bad press Dr. D. You might be able to steam out the impressions with a good iron or steamer.

Michael

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Newest acquisition:
probably late 40's/early 50's European/German DB-overcoat with nice fabric...
- no tags -

 

[Michael A]

Newest acquisition:
probably late 40's/early 50's European/German DB-overcoat with nice fabric...
- no tags -

Nice. Looks like heavy cloth. Does the dart running up from the pocket go all the way into the armscye? Can it be buttoned in either direction?

Michael

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Really heavy wool cloth, Michael!
Yes, the seam is running up diagonal to the armpit and there are 3 button holes on both sides - not unusual for (German?) overcoats of this time. What does it tell you?

 

[Doctor Damage]

Thanks guys. I was beginning to think I was the only one around here that still wore overcoats. And thanks for the info on the British Warm Hal. I found a description online and it said they were traditionally done in a 30 oz melton. That is some serious cloth. I don't think mine would be that heavy.

They were originally the "official" coat of British officers in WW1 and often had removable liners, fur liners, sometimes fur collars, etc. They were private purchase so tended to vary quite a bit, but the basic appearance was pretty standard. Also, the originals were really short, just barely touching the knees. As they've moved into the civilian market they got longer. If you dig out books on WW1 with lots of photos you'll see some. I'll see if I can find some pics on the interweb.

Bummer that the cleaners gave your coat a bad press Dr. D. You might be able to steam out the impressions with a good iron or steamer.

Good idea about the steamer. I'll look into it. I know Dinerman uses one on his vintage stuff (which he buys and sells). I think the days of reliable dry cleaners are in the past, so this would be a good alternative. I've got a couple of sack suits, i.e. 3 button rolled to the middle button, and I will never take those to the dry cleaners because they'll roll the lapels wrong, for sure!

 

[Michael A]

Really heavy wool cloth, Michael!
Yes, the seam is running up diagonal to the armpit and there are 3 button holes on both sides - not unusual for (German?) overcoats of this time. What does it tell you?

It's not telling me anything in particular Matt. I'm just interested in shaping details of different coat designs, and for the buttoning I have a couple of coats that also button both ways and I'm trying to ascertain the age of them. It looks like a very nice heavy coat. I'm a big fan of heavy wool.

They were originally the "official" coat of British officers in WW1 and often had removable liners, fur liners, sometimes fur collars, etc. They were private purchase so tended to vary quite a bit, but the basic appearance was pretty standard. Also, the originals were really short, just barely touching the knees. As they've moved into the civilian market they got longer. If you dig out books on WW1 with lots of photos you'll see some. I'll see if I can find some pics on the interweb.

Good idea about the steamer. I'll look into it. I know Dinerman uses one on his vintage stuff (which he buys and sells). I think the days of reliable dry cleaners are in the past, so this would be a good alternative. I've got a couple of sack suits, i.e. 3 button rolled to the middle button, and I will never take those to the dry cleaners because they'll roll the lapels wrong, for sure!

Thanks for the info Dr. D. I did find some pictures of the shorter army coats. So mine would be longer than those, but also missing the slash opening to pull my sword through. Ha ha.

If you are working on truly tailored clothing, the type where they used ironwork to shrink and stretch the fabric, you must be very careful with the steamer. If it is more run of the mill stuff, read modern, you still need to be careful around seams because they are still frequently differentially stretched to achieve shaping. For tailored clothing a dry iron and a damp press cloth are better choices. If the ridges the cleaners raised are due to loose pocketing you can put a piece of cardboard between the pocketing and the front of the coat. That will prevent the ridge. You can do the same thing when you are ironing vents or other parts where there is overlap.

I agree, a good cleaner is hard to find. Or at least a good presser. If I acquire a jacket where the lapel has been pressed incorrectly I locate the break in the canvassing as best I can and then put a wooden dowel, something around a 1/2" diameter, down that line. Then I steam the break while stretching or shrinking, as may be required, to get a gentle roll and proper lay of the edges.

Michael

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

It's not telling me anything in particular Matt. I'm just interested in shaping details of different coat designs, and for the buttoning I have a couple of coats that also button both ways and I'm trying to ascertain the age of them. It looks like a very nice heavy coat. I'm a big fan of heavy wool.

Oh, I see! The German overcoat I posted under #1262 also has these button holes on both sides.
The ADEFA tag leads to the mid/2nd half 30's.
And there was a discussion about the buttoning of a black 20's suit, where Broccoli answered my questions:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/show-us-vintage-german-suits.62278/page-37 and following side

 

[Michael A]

Oh, I see! The German overcoat I posted under #1262 also has these button holes on both sides.
The ADEFA tag leads to the mid/2nd half 30's.
And there was a discussion about the buttoning of a black 20's suit, where Broccoli answered my questions:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/show-us-vintage-german-suits.62278/page-37 and following side

Thanks for the link Matt. I have a mackinaw jacket that may be from the 30s that buttons both ways and a Botany 500 coat, that I posted but the picture is mysteriously invisible though the link is live, that I think is from the 60s. I can see the balance idea with the coat. With the mackinaw I was thinking it might be function if you are working in a wind. I need to think about this a bit more.

Michael

 

[Michael A]

I'm getting to the end of my supply of coats. Today's model was made by International Custom Tailor in Seoul Korea.
P1220148 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
No material or other info included except that it seems to have been made for one Don Urban.
P1220153 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1220152 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
It's a very soft material with quite a lot of nap. Could be camelhair.
P1220158 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Any opinions on that?
P1220181 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
The lining has a bit of brocade. The buttonholes may be hand worked.

Michael

 

[Doctor Damage]

If you are working on truly tailored clothing, the type where they used ironwork to shrink and stretch the fabric, you must be very careful with the steamer. If it is more run of the mill stuff, read modern, you still need to be careful around seams because they are still frequently differentially stretched to achieve shaping. For tailored clothing a dry iron and a damp press cloth are better choices. If the ridges the cleaners raised are due to loose pocketing you can put a piece of cardboard between the pocketing and the front of the coat. That will prevent the ridge. You can do the same thing when you are ironing vents or other parts where there is overlap.

I agree, a good cleaner is hard to find. Or at least a good presser. If I acquire a jacket where the lapel has been pressed incorrectly I locate the break in the canvassing as best I can and then put a wooden dowel, something around a 1/2" diameter, down that line. Then I steam the break while stretching or shrinking, as may be required, to get a gentle roll and proper lay of the edges.

Good info and cautions. Many thanks! My overcoat is totally unstructured, the only padding or interlining is in the shoulders. The only part that needs attention is the right breast, which is one big chunk of flat wool, so I should be able to avoid any seams, etc, when I get around to this.

 

[Benproof]

Michael - you have way too many handsome coats. I love the Addison coat aesthetic. There's so little modern stuff that has the swish-buckling contour flows of classic overcoats. I won't show mine since I'm not really happy with any of mine. I like Boglioli but the awful contemporary mentality to turn a decent overcoat into some kind of simplified "man-frock" really gets to me like we're being forced to choose between peacoat or some sort of 60's mid-thigh Lennon look.

Do any modern makers do anything like the Addison these days, or did mankind just lose its sense of style? Decent long coats should drop below knee. It's aesthetics

 

[Michael A]

Michael - you have way too many handsome coats. I love the Addison coat aesthetic. There's so little modern stuff that has the swish-buckling contour flows of classic overcoats. I won't show mine since I'm not really happy with any of mine. I like Boglioli but the awful contemporary mentality to turn a decent overcoat into some kind of simplified "man-frock" really gets to me like we're being forced to choose between peacoat or some sort of 60's mid-thigh Lennon look.

Do any modern makers do anything like the Addison these days, or did mankind just lose its sense of style? Decent long coats should drop below knee. It's aesthetics

Thanks Benproof. I'm pretty sure most people would say I have too many coats. Ha ha. Too many of all clothes.

You are on the wrong side of the pond it seems for shopping at O'Connell's, but they have quite a few coats and some might meet your criteria. I know I am very much coveting their Alpaca lined Greatcoat. I think the wool whipcord in that is much heavier than the wool in my Juster Bros and I was wearing that today with a windchill of 3 degrees F (-16 C), though I was well layered as well. Made for a very pleasant 90 minute walk.

Michael

 

[Doctor Damage]

Some old photos showing vintage overcoats. The first one is a crime scene, I've censored the dead bodies. The second photo is two plainsclothes police flanking some mobster. Everything looks normal until you see the height marker and notice that the tallest man is only about 5-6 or 5-7, minus hat.