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Show Us Your OVERCOATS

Michael A

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6,287
Picked up the Patrick overcoat. Fits me perfect! Very stiff, heavy jacket. Here are some detail pictures.

B

Back

View attachment 56878

Collar attachment

View attachment 56879

Outside shoulder seam

View attachment 56880

Inside seaming

View attachment 56881

Inside arm attachment

View attachment 56882

Pocket finishing

Buttonhole finish View attachment 56884

View attachment 56883

Button closeup

View attachment 56885
That is a gem. They made some fantastic coats in Minnesota back in the day.

Michael
 

Michael A

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6,287
:) Thanks, Michael!
Interesting "inner live" - leads me to say: 70's or maybe even younger...
Also certainly possible. As I mentioned, I know little about dating clothing, particularly if it is lacking a union label. To me the styling seems like it could fit in most anywhere in the last century with the broad shoulders and belted waist. I think Juster Bros was in business at least until the late 80s if not the 90s or later even. Any of the clues you use for dating clothing would be happily digested by me.

Thanks,
Michael
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,142
Location
Germany
Less clue - more a feeling...
This kind of collar is very common in late 60's/70's, same with fake fur and quilted lining. The fabric and overall view, the belt buckle ...
Just a feeling, like I said. But sure there are real experts out there to help you ;)
 

Michael A

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6,287
Less clue - more a feeling...
This kind of collar is very common in late 60's/70's, same with fake fur and quilted lining. The fabric and overall view, the belt buckle ...
Just a feeling, like I said. But sure there are real experts out there to help you ;)
Thanks some more Matt. How does one tell the difference between faux fur and shearling? Here is a pic of the backside of the collar.
P1210703 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Not a very good one I'm afraid. I have some other shots of the bits beneath the lining on m flickr page if you want to view them. I'm hesitant to clutter up this page with more.

Thanks,
Michael
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
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1,142
Location
Germany
Think this is actually a real shearling collar - looks like "leather"/suede in the picture. Fake fur's / fake shearling's back is usually made of cloth/textile.
But what I mean is the "fake fur lining" (synthetic?)...
 

Michael A

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6,287
Think this is actually a real shearling collar - looks like "leather"/suede in the picture. Fake fur's / fake shearling's back is usually made of cloth/textile.
But what I mean is the "fake fur lining" (synthetic?)...

I'm going to do a burn test on the pile sometime today when I get a chance. I did see a coat at this link that is the spitting image of mine in looks and description. The Fur Trimmed Coat about 1/3 of the way down the page.

Today I'm wearing a Kuppenheimer Valgora coat that has a 1939 Union Label.
P1210712 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1210711 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
If I remember right the fabric is a blend of alpaca, baby angora and wool.
P1210719 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Nice coat for a chill morning.
P1210722 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr

Michael
 

Michael A

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6,287
That's an interesting link: maybe I'm completely wrong with my assessment... :eek:Sorry!
What do the others think?

I did a burn test on the pile and it is decidedly of the wool family. I'll go with alpaca since my understanding is that it was very commonly used for pile. The knit backing also seems to be wool although I had a hard time getting off enough fiber for a decent test, not wanting to damage the integrity of the knit. It is a very fine knit, 18 columns and 14 rows per inch.

The parts that are interesting me at the moment are the use of real horsehair and linen canvas in the chest and lapel. And the light pad stitching in the lapel, the wool batting used as sleeve insulation and the construction of the shoulder pads from multiple layers of cotton and wool battings.

Thanks,
Michael
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,142
Location
Germany
Michael,
today I saw a picture of a coat like yours - light brown gabardine with dark brown fur collar:1940s US!
So now I'm sure I was wrong! Sorry for the wrong note!
 

Michael A

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6,287
Michael,
today I saw a picture of a coat like yours - light brown gabardine with dark brown fur collar:1940s US!
So now I'm sure I was wrong! Sorry for the wrong note!

No problem with me. It's hard to figure this stuff out since the designers like to recycle the styles every 15 or 20 years. Unless significant changes in construction details have changed in the intervening period, or there is a dated union tag, I'm pretty much at sea. I've had quite good luck for stuff from the 60s forward finding ads in Google books searches that turn up magazines and newspapers.

I remember that around 1971 I used to wear my Dad's coat that was similar to this one, but in light grey. And I think about the same time I may have purchased one at Salvation Army for maybe $2. No idea what became of them. No one was wearing anything like them in my neck of the woods at the time, so it passed for hippie chic.

Michael
 

Michael A

I'll Lock Up
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6,287

Michael A

I'll Lock Up
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6,287
Original Karlin Loden Cloth Coat
P1210899 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
4 Button Fly Front, Inverted Pleat at Center Back
P1210900 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
I believe it's impregnated with something for water resistance. I know I was walking in a moderately heavy rain last night for 20 minutes and there was no hint of dampness on the interior. Very windproof as well.
P1210903 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1210898 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Classic German design coat. The Karlin factory seems to have closed around 1968 so I'm guessing the age to be mid 50s to mid 60s. As usual, any other info or suggestions welcomed.

Michael
 

Benproof

A-List Customer
Messages
350
Location
England
The Addison coat cuts a finer silhouette for me! The Loden seems to fit with those military derived shapeless coats although they are extremely practical!

The 70's full length leather coats makes me think of Ozzy Osborne :)
 

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