The Definitive Cavanagh Edge Primer *

[Lefty]

No idea. He's got piles of them, all different. I'm guessing that he's just stripping old hats for use as modern customs - though the finish does look pretty rough.

 

[DRB]

Thank you Brad for the information. :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

I have a Cavanagh Edge being built and will post it here once it is done.

 

[DRB]

Here is what the hat body looks like currently. Brown

 

[Brad Bowers]

Is Gary White making it? I know he had some old stock Cavanagh Edge bodies.

Brad

 

[DRB]

Professor: yes, he is the one. He only had 3 colors for me to choose from (green, brown, and some other color) in my size brim and crown. I wanted black but settled for brown since I don't have any hats that are formalwear brown beaver. He is also putting in a liner and sweatband in one of my new borsalino waterproof crushables that are sold without.

I believe he has the block with taper that I am looking for. We'll see.

Interestingly, he has no email but can send pictures from his cell phone of samples and receive pictures of hats you like. A different way of doing business, but nice to talk to.

 

[DRB]

Gary says he bought a thousand hat bodies from the factory before they went out of business, if I remember correctly.

 

[DRB]

Well I went over to Gary White's shop and picked up my hat. Of course I couldn't leave without ordering two more. Anyway, here are some closeup pictures of his brown cavanagh hat that he made for me. I can see no unusual holes where there were any strings, threads, etc, anywhere on the hat so I feel comfortable saying that this is not a previously owned stripped hat. Gary surprised me with the ribbon. I told him just to make it look good.

As you can tell by the crease in the top and the dents in the sides that I do not prefer for them to be deep and pronounced but rather, soft and flowing. Gary has the right hat block for me and will be making all my future hats. 5 inches exactly open crowned, a well-tapered front. I am so happy with this hat. I got two compliments on it from women today.

 

[zetwal]

Closeup is right, my goodness. Great photos ...

 

[150719541]

Thanks Brad, excellent job ¡¡¡¡ Every day learn something new, thanks again

 

[alanfgag]

Thanks for sharing the up close and personal view... enjoy your fine new hat.

My wife has been taking her costume design students to Gary's shop for many years. He's a rare resource. I met him many years ago when he worked in the hat department at Peller & Mure. (I noticed a nice P&M fedora on an ebay auction this evening - another bit of Buffalo history.)

 

[DRB]

Thanks Alan, I am liking it more every day. It has become my most comfortable hat.

 

[Andykev]

Does he have any taller hat bodies that you know of? Your hat has a lot lower crown that I like.

 

[DRB]

Andy, he probably has what you need as far as cavanagh edge or mink. As you know, cavanagh edged blank hats have to be made to the exact brim size and crown size. In other words, he only had 3 hat cav. edged bodies for a 5 inch open crown that is 21/8 inch brimmed. He might (guessing) have 20 of a higher open crowned 21/8 inch. Am I making any sense? Most of the guys/gals on the FL like the higher crowns, so they should be able to find something there.

 

[DRB]

I will be adding future Cavanagh Edge hats to the link: The Custom Hatter http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?39808-The-Custom-Hatter
once the hats are finished. I have 3 more being built. One is a dark olive Cav. edge (suitable for a black suit), the other is a Light sand color that is 70% mink and 30% beaver, raw edge. The third one is a slightly darker white (bone) with a gray ribbon with a unique centerpiece for a bow. Raw edge.

Thank you again Brad for this wonderful introduction to the Cavanagh Edge.

 

[DRB]

I recently rang the Akubra factory in Kempsey, to find out when they stopped doing cavanagh edges so I could use it as a dating device. I was told they still do it on a couple of lines, most notably the RENMARK, one of which I have and what prompted the enquiry. So it lives on.

I emailed Yates Menswear in Renmark, S. Australia and they replied:
"Thanks for your enquiry. The Renmark hat has a welt edge (felt is doubled over and stitched) and is a made to order hat, with about an April delivery.
Colours available are Cedar Brown, Valley Brown and Cruiser Grey.

The hat is $134.95 AUD and Express postage would be $15.00 AUD

If you would like to proceed, we accept credit card by phone, bank transfer, or paypal payments.
Just let me know which you’d prefer.
Cheers!
Regards,
Haydn Yates"

So the hat sounds very interesting, but not a cavanagh edge.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

BUMP

I was looking for info on Cavanagh edge and this thread came from the Fedora Lounge thread history. Great info.

If you have not read Brad's info, it deserves a gander.

Best, Eric -

 

[danofarlington]

I got two compliments on it from women today.
[/IMG]

That's the main point, in my view. Underneath it all, that's it.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

This thread deserves a bump.

The Professor’s research is quite something. Of particular interest to me was this information on the Cavanagh edge:
“even on hats that had a ribbon bound over the Cavanagh Edge. On some hats, the Cavanagh Edge was even cut off to make a raw edge, but with this supposedly better strength.”

The idea that the Cavanagh edge was more than a brim edge treatment but a whole different type of brim process that resulted in (claimed) denser felt in the brim is fascinating. The idea that the felted edge was trimmed off by the manufacturer in making certain hats is odd, but makes me wonder if that’s the type of Cavanagh edge used on derbies that have bound brims.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Found my first Cavart Edge hat today. According to The Professor, this process was introduced in 1973 and used a glued and sewn welted edge. The thread was removed after the glue bonded and then the edge was pounced to blend it. It’s a passing imitation of the true Cavanagh Edge.

ebay photos. The hat is not mine.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

9+ yrs running since a bump.

Byer - Rolnick era Resistol Western dress in 3X with hand-felted brim edge.