Show Us Your OVERCOATS

[tropicalbob]

I just noticed on Ebay a couple of Shneider's of Salzburg overcoats in black wool and cashmere going for between $110.00 and $190.00. I've had one for years and years and love it to distraction. Although it's as minimalist in design as you could want, it's a beautiful and useful one with something military about it. I was very lucky to find one in Prussian Blue: every time I put it on, which is all too seldom, I get an urge for a bit of "lebensraum."

 

[buler]

Ran into this amazing coat this weekend. Labeled Patrick Lake Superior Brand. Very heavy coat. Interesting horsehide or similar leather on the cuffs and sleeves. Seller claimed that many things from the estate were from the turn of the century. I'm purely guessing that this coat is possibly 30's?? Interested to hear what you think.

B

 

[Denton]

You really want Dinerman to answer your question, Buler, but unfortunately he is on the road having adventures. You might check out his threads on mackinaws. I think there is one under "Fedora Lounge Guides." As he has painstakingly documented, styles in these coats change very little over the decades. The fact that yours is unlined I think means that it wouldn't have been made later than the 1930s. The label and the leather trim look to me like signs of an earlier time, but mine is decidedly not an expert opinion.

Anyway, looks like a nice old coat in amazing condition!

 

[Rabbit]

Very nice find, Buler. The coat is 20s-30s, difficult to narrow it further down. Dating based on feel/look of the fabric (quite hard wool, has a distinct feel), label font. The buttons, leather trimmings and the unlined construction fit in with that. I guess 30s is more likely. The position of the shoulder seams might be another indicator of 20s vs. 30s.

And yes, 30s Mackinaws are usually unlined, 40s are often lined with either cotton or wool (often in check patterns); 50s are often lined with quilted rayon. 20s are sometimes unlined, sometimes lined with various fabrics or even with a thin leather (like chamois) as an added windbreaker, or made of a fabric with a different pattern on the reverse side (like solid right side, checked left side).

 

[buler]

Thanks for the replies! I'm guessing that the buttons are vegetable ivory. Supposedly not used much after 1920s. I've done the usually searching on the maker name (trademark, google books, etc.) with no luck. I thought the leather trim was a bit unusual and was curious what specific task the maker was trying to accommodate.

B

 

[Doctor Damage]

I thought the leather trim was a bit unusual and was curious what specific task the maker was trying to accommodate.

The leather trim is to help protect against wear, similar to British donkey jackets, which similarly are usually unlined. That suggests to me that your coat was intended to be worn hard.

If possible, could you take some photos of the inside of the coat to show how the sleeves are attached and finished, and how the collar attaches?

 

[buler]

Doctor, I'd love to post more pics. But I have to go back and buy it first. I had already spent over my limit that day and didn't even try it on (I knew if it fit I'd have bought it). Wish I had taken shots of the back and inside. I'll be going back soon!

As for the leather trim, I understood it was for wear protection. I was trying to figure out what activity they were protecting the inside of the sleeves from.

B

 

[Rabbit]

Corozo buttons were very common on outercoats and jackets in the 20s. I don't see many of them on coats after the early/mid 30s. The 20s corozo buttons are often a thing of beauty.

What size do you reckon this thing is? Small or more like your size?

 

[buler]

Rabbit, the jacket looked to be a decent size. Usually you can tell right away if it's tiny, but this looked to have pretty decent shoulder width. I'm trying to get in contact with the antique shop to have him measure it.

B

 

[buler]

You really want Dinerman to answer your question, Buler, but unfortunately he is on the road having adventures. You might check out his threads on mackinaws. I think there is one under "Fedora Lounge Guides." As he has painstakingly documented, styles in these coats change very little over the decades. The fact that yours is unlined I think means that it wouldn't have been made later than the 1930s. The label and the leather trim look to me like signs of an earlier time, but mine is decidedly not an expert opinion.

Anyway, looks like a nice old coat in amazing condition!

I did go read Dinerman's thread on Mackinaws. Low and behold, he documents the Patrick-Duluth Woolen mills company. Seems this jacket may be a very early example before the company switched to the Patrick-Duluth name (my speculation).

B

 

[Doctor Damage]

Doctor, I'd love to post more pics. But I have to go back and buy it first. I had already spent over my limit that day and didn't even try it on (I knew if it fit I'd have bought it). Wish I had taken shots of the back and inside. I'll be going back soon!

Oh sorry, ha ha

As for the leather trim, I understood it was for wear protection. I was trying to figure out what activity they were protecting the inside of the sleeves from.

Hard to tell since it's not really a strange setup. I've seen donkey jackets with the same. I find the use of two different colours of leather on the pockets interesting. Would a work jacket have that sort of detail? I'm thinking this must have been an upmarket coat.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Great! Never saw a coat like this before - not from the 20's/30's!
But there were similar overcoats in the late 60's, right?

 

[buler]

Rabbit, the jacket looked to be a decent size. Usually you can tell right away if it's tiny, but this looked to have pretty decent shoulder width. I'm trying to get in contact with the antique shop to have him measure it.

B

So it turns out the jacket is right around a 42. Which happens to be my size. I'll be making the trek up north tomorrow to pick up the jacket!

B

 

[buler]

Picked up the Patrick overcoat. Fits me perfect! Very stiff, heavy jacket. Here are some detail pictures.

B

Back

Collar attachment

Outside shoulder seam

Inside seaming

Inside arm attachment

Pocket finishing

Buttonhole finish

Button closeup

 

[willyto]

You have a tank right there for the rest of your life. Nice find.

There's a similar one on Etsy:

 

[VintageEveryday]

Bought this 1950s overcoat for 20 bucks from a thrift shop (this place has some very nice pieces for a goodwill!) it fits me nicely, but the one thing I don't like is that its too small for me to wear a suit jacket underneath. But as an overcoat with a vest, shirt and tie underneath, it can't be beat! It contrasts smartly with my hat, which I didn't think would look great, but the fawn color paired with the gunmetal grey/red windowpane looks nice, I think.

 

[Luftwaffles]

Received what I believe to be a 1910s-1920s fur lined ulster. There's some moth damage on the right skirt but that doesn't really stop me from wearing the thing.

Even the sleeves are lined in mink!

 

[Michael A]

Juster Brothers of Minneapolis Wool Twill with fur/shearling collar
P1210684 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1210683 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Not sure when it was made. No union label. Any ideas?
P1210686 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Sewn in wool pile lining , quilted rayon sleeve linings, knitted wind cuff.

Michael

 

[belfastboy]

Juster Brothers of Minneapolis Wool Twill with fur/shearling collar
P1210684 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1210683 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Not sure when it was made. No union label. Any ideas?
P1210686 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Sewn in wool pile lining , quilted rayon sleeve linings, knitted wind cuff.

Michael

Now that is a serious winter coat.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Really a nice one, Michael!
Is it possibly a late 60's coat? Would like to see the lining...