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My New Old Real McCoy's x Harley-Davidson 1930s Aviator

Messages
16,913
I immediately recognized the wall from the 619 photo session. :D Very nice jacket and it fits you like most can only dream. Myself included. I still prefer the leather on the Schott, but brown allows for more character by default and this is, in any case whatsoever, as perfect as a leather jacket can get. Motorcycle leather jacket or otherwise, I dare to say.

Also, I gotta say, this is an incredibly impressive review on its own. The photos are beautiful and the presentation is top notch. It's like an article. Except better than literally any other I've read on leather jackets outside of TFL. Man, I gotta try something like that with my next jacket. If there's gonna be one. . .
 

d4nimal

Familiar Face
Messages
61
Location
Philadelphia
I immediately recognized the wall from the 619 photo session. :D Very nice jacket and it fits you like most can only dream. Myself included. I still prefer the leather on the Schott, but brown allows for more character by default and this is, in any case whatsoever, as perfect as a leather jacket can get. Motorcycle leather jacket or otherwise, I dare to say.

Also, I gotta say, this is an incredibly impressive review on its own. The photos are beautiful and the presentation is top notch. It's like an article. Except better than literally any other I've read on leather jackets outside of TFL. Man, I gotta try something like that with my next jacket. If there's gonna be one. . .

I actually agree w/ you about the Schott. I don't think I typed it into this abridged review above, but that hand oiled naked cowhide is very hard to beat. I'd probably take that over almost anything, leatherwise. Crazy to think I got it at 50% off because not enough ppl wanted to buy one. I paid about the same for this RMC jacket used.

I'm tickled and complimented you recognize my photos from before, and thanks for your kind words on the writing. I've always considered my posts to be a bit long-winded, circuitous, and rather dry, but it's always helped me in the past when I've needed to research things in the past having detailed references to look at. I'm glad you liked it. My full blog post is even longer, and covers some aspects a little bit more like design eras and some aspects of leather that are too elementary for most on TFL, though it does have a few more pictures.

I'd love to see something similar with your next purchase.
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,496
What a gorgeous jacket! The fit is absolutely perfect, the leather is incredible, and the construction looks flawless.

I was going to bring up the stitching, but @Superfluous beat me to it. Like him, I can't say which will be more durable, but my goodness does the stitching on your RMNZ look 3 times nicer than that of the Schott. It's night and day. Then again, I'm a total nerd about stitching, even on my jeans and boots.

thanks for posting. The review was very enjoyable to read as well.
 

d4nimal

Familiar Face
Messages
61
Location
Philadelphia
Thanks, bud! The comparison pictures - especially the second one - was posted with the express purpose of comparing the stitching in particular, so I'm glad you guys caught it. Really appreciate the kind words!
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,496
Thanks, bud! The comparison pictures - especially the second one - was posted with the express purpose of comparing the stitching in particular, so I'm glad you guys caught it. Really appreciate the kind words!
The picture did a great job of comparing them. I like the way you stacked them on top of each other. It made it even more clear.
 

Superfluous

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,995
Location
Missing in action
I totally agree. I doubt it makes a shred of actual practical difference, but it's just finer work. A lot (maybe most) of fine craftsmanship doesn't necessarily translate into real world gains, but that doesn't stop me from admiring it and wanting it when it's available. I'm not sure how controversial that statement is, but I'll stand by it.

^ This
 
Messages
17,557
Location
Chicago
I would say that stitching like this is only possible on lighter weight leather. Schott punches out too many jackets to care about that level of detail (regardless of the hide). I don't think you could possibly achieve that through 1/2" thick folded leather that's over 4oz in weight. The only one I've seen come close is Stuart. That said I think his "4oz" HH is over weighed and is probably closer to 3.5-3.75 (just my opinion from handling them and others).
The last Aero I bought, a full 12lbs plus of hide, without the belt and collar...I don't think it would be possible. I could be wrong but my gut says no way. All the lighter jackets I've owned (which there aren't many but say Thedi for ex.) have been sewed up tight like this. Not to say it's not beautiful work but I would suggest the ability to create this type of stitching is only possible with a thinner hide. Just my opinion and experience here but when I see stitching like this done with the heavy stuff...I'll gladly eat my hat. Point ultimately being that stitching of this nature is not necessarily an indication of finer or lesser craftsmanship but perhaps born of the characteristics of the hide itself.
 

d4nimal

Familiar Face
Messages
61
Location
Philadelphia
I would say that stitching like this is only possible on lighter weight leather. Schott punches out too many jackets to care about that level of detail (regardless of the hide). I don't think you could possibly achieve that through 1/2" thick folded leather that's over 4oz in weight. The only one I've seen come close is Stuart. That said I think his "4oz" HH is over weighed and is probably closer to 3.5-3.75 (just my opinion from handling them and others).
The last Aero I bought, a full 12lbs plus of hide, without the belt and collar...I don't think it would be possible. I could be wrong but my gut says no way. All the lighter jackets I've owned (which there aren't many but say Thedi for ex.) have been sewed up tight like this. Not to say it's not beautiful work but I would suggest the ability to create this type of stitching is only possible with a thinner hide. Just my opinion and experience here but when I see stitching like this done with the heavy stuff...I'll gladly eat my hat. Point ultimately being that stitching of this nature is not necessarily an indication of finer or lesser craftsmanship but perhaps born of the characteristics of the hide itself.

That's a really good point, and something I hadn't considered. I haven't weighed them up against each other, but my Schott is slightly heavier than the RM. Not a ton, so in this case I doubt it's due to the weight and more a consequence of Schott's scale of production. Unfortunately, I only know some leatherworkers in bag/wallet-work, so I'm not sure I could ask them as it's a different type of product.

I wonder if anyone else here has more experience with it.
 

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,981
Location
London
I've been following your jacket painting thread as well. I'm not gonna lie, when I was looking for this jacket I originally had plans to buy an old vintage plain back jacket and paint it with something. I'm still not 100% against doing something similar with this jacket on the top yoke w/ something Japan related (I love Japan, and the jacket is from there), but I both can't come up with a design I think would do add to the jacket's look and the confidence not to ruin a perfectly good jacket experimenting. Not like I can just buy another one.

You can always buy another jacket and use it as a guinea pig :)
Speaking of which, it may be an idea for me as well...
When it comes to Japan, there are so many options, from sakura to the classic prints, ladies in umbrella and swordsmen. Anything particular direction in mind?
 

d4nimal

Familiar Face
Messages
61
Location
Philadelphia
You can always buy another jacket and use it as a guinea pig :)
Speaking of which, it may be an idea for me as well...
When it comes to Japan, there are so many options, from sakura to the classic prints, ladies in umbrella and swordsmen. Anything particular direction in mind?

Nothing but some half-baked ideas - it'd probably be pretty simple, given my favorite painted jackets tend to be not super ornate or complicated. I find that the best jobs have a bit of a devil-may-care attitude about the art, which goes against my perfectionist nature. But I have some of the same hold-ups as noted in your thread. I'd probably mock up some scenarios in photoshop or something before I even considered putting brush to leather.
 
Messages
11,183
Location
SoCal
One of my favorites fron the Rin Tanaka book:
8j317W6.png

I'm not sure that it would be as cool if done professionally though.
 

d4nimal

Familiar Face
Messages
61
Location
Philadelphia
One of my favorites fron the Rin Tanaka book:
8j317W6.png

I'm not sure that it would be as cool if done professionally though.
Yeah, totally agree. There's something endearing and, dare I say, authentic to the spirit of most MC jackets that tends to get lost in perfect artwork. It's a daunting task to take on.
 
Messages
11,183
Location
SoCal
Kind of like Vans sneakers.
Before corporate entities started putting out all sorts of designs like Mario and pizza, the cool kids bought plain white slip-ons and designed the patterns themselves with markers.
I miss the days of doodling on my denim school binder with el Markos and white-out.
 

nick123

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,370
Location
California
Kind of like Vans sneakers.
Before corporate entities started putting out all sorts of designs like Mario and pizza, the cool kids bought plain white slip-ons and designed the patterns themselves with markers.
I miss the days of doodling on my denim school binder with el Markos and white-out.

When Vans first opened shop, kids would actually bring in swatches of their school uniform fabric, and have truly custom shoes made accordingly! IIRC the business began as a made to order venture. I knew a relative of the family.
 

Gamma68

One Too Many
Messages
1,943
Location
Detroit, MI
@d4nimal : Fantastic jacket and a wonderful review, both here and on your blog. As someone relatively new to fine leather jackets, I appreciate much of the info you presented on your blog--very educational. Also, I'm a professional writer and really enjoy your writing style. Your blog (and this thread) have been bookmarked.
 

d4nimal

Familiar Face
Messages
61
Location
Philadelphia
@d4nimal : Fantastic jacket and a wonderful review, both here and on your blog. As someone relatively new to fine leather jackets, I appreciate much of the info you presented on your blog--very educational. Also, I'm a professional writer and really enjoy your writing style. Your blog (and this thread) have been bookmarked.

This is one of the greatest compliments I've ever received. Made my day, man. You have no idea. I'm no leather expert, but I try to always be a good student of the things I'm interested in. I'm glad you found it so enjoyable.
 

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