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Show Us Your OVERCOATS

Metatron

One Too Many
Messages
1,536
Location
United Kingdom
I bought this Swiss army coat in London during a Fedora Lounge gathering.





It appears to be a greatcoat shortened to a peacoat equivalent length.
Even though I wasn't sure if I could incorporate it successfully into my wardrobe (now selling it in the classifieds) I just had to take it home and examine it.
I want to showcase some of the details. This coat really brings together many desirable features and has the potential to inspire designers and tailors:

Sleeve turn ups. Very much a heritage feature found on Napoleonic and older uniforms, it is actually very practical in that you can adjust the sleeve length

The zig-zag stitching on the collar. Everything is made to be indestructible. Rows and rows of gratuitous stitching on the collar stand.


The adjustable back belt. This would be great to have on a sports coat! Tailoring on the go according to your mood. I have seen this feature only once on a Swedish sports coat owned by Fastuni.


Finally, this is what I call a high armhole!! You can do everything in this coat. Perfect for surrendering! :party:
 
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brendanm720

One of the Regulars
Messages
107
Location
The Torrid Zone
Here's my latest EBay find. it was listed as being from the 1970s but the label suggests pre 1958 (telephone dialling codes changed in 1958 and the company merged with another at that time):
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A fine coat - I suspect it's quite a bit older than 1958, as that style of double-breasted coat had been around in the 1930s (and perhaps 1940s) but was not around in the 1950s; most coats of the 1950s were single-breasted with 3 buttons (if formal, with inset sleeves, if tweed with raglan sleeves) or were of the heavy double-breasted and belted style which HBK has justifiably called "bullet-resistant".

Seconded 1930's/1940's. The rounded points on the lapel peaks and the roughly parallel-to-the-collar gorge are making me think this.

Great find, BTW.
 

esteban68

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,107
Location
Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England
And a couple more, colour is a blue/green I think 'Lovat' is the correct term, TT has a jacket in the same cloth I believe?
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Harris label suggests 1940's I believe?
Condition is excellent on the whole with a few very light moth nips that are lost in the weave, just one obvious hole in the rear collar which could be covered by a velvet collar I guess?
 

Eddie Derbyshire

Practically Family
Messages
849
Location
Riddings, Derbyshire, UK
a recent find in North Yorkshire, Harris tweed made by 'WIL-BE-FORT'
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Superb esteban68! The colours in that fabric are positively romantic up close! With the collar hole, something I often do is open up behind the hole, and put a small piece of the same or very similar cloth behind it. Take the piece from somewhere it won't be seen like an inlay or from behind the lining. Then, tidy up the hole by snipping away the frayed bits, press it, and usually it makes it much more passable.
It really is a lovely coat, I'm a big fan - I think it might be a shame to put velvet with tweed though. But that's just my opinion!
 

Eddie Derbyshire

Practically Family
Messages
849
Location
Riddings, Derbyshire, UK
Hello folks!

Here are two of my best. The first is a 'Burton's the Tailors' 1951 belted overcoat. It's incredibly heavy, and thick, with turn-back cuffs (don't know if there's a real name for these?) and double-stitched seams.




And here is a great Double-breasted overcoat by 'Burleigh' - a make I've not heard of before. I can't put a finger on the date of it precisely, but I'm very tempted to say 1930s? But it could be as late as the 1950s going on the style of course. It has a fantastic silhouette and I think the lapel shape and button stance are nigh-on-perfect!




Thanks for looking!
 

esteban68

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,107
Location
Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England
They're both very nice and pretty much timeless!.....I 've thought on with the Harris lovat coat and had come to the same idea, I've managed before to patch holes and to be honest it's only about 3mm in diameter so it should be doable, the rough ish texture does lend itself to easier repairs.
 

Hal

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
UK
Eddie - both are fine coats. TwoTypes recently showed a similar one to your Burleigh, and I expressed the view that his was likely to be from the 1930s or (less likely) the 1940s, as that style had gone out by the start of the 1950s. This style was revived in the 1980s but with a lower button stance (like that on the ugly double-breasted suits of that decade).
 
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Eddie Derbyshire

Practically Family
Messages
849
Location
Riddings, Derbyshire, UK
Eddie - both are fine coats. TwoTypes recently showed a similar one to your Burleigh, and I expressed the view that his was likely to be from the 1930s or (less likely) the 1940s, as that style had gone out by the start of the 1950s. This style was revived in the 1980s but with a lower button stance (like that on the ugly double-breasted suits of that decade.

Thanks! Yes I'm being optimistic and calling it 1930s. Looking the details (neat shoulders, high button-stance etc.) I'd say it isn't typical of anything later. But then again, companies would keep older styles in for some time after they weren't 'on-peak' for fashion.
 

fabiovenhorst

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,134
Location
Gaspar - SC - Brazil
I've owned this overcoat for some time and never got around to posting it because it's really nothing special at all.
However, it bugs me that I can't date it.

I have a hunch it doesn't even qualify as vintage, mainly because the button stance is a bit off for vintage asthetics, and because the liner is really quite shiny, as in post mid-60s rayon. The shoulder and armhole construction, however, is not bad at all and doesn't feel like an 80s coat. It feels just like a 50s construction, which of course it can't be just by looking at the label.
About the button stance, what seems odd here is that the upper row is higher and/or farther inward than what would be expected of a more balanced button stance - pick one or both.
That said, I believe I've seen this Made in Hungary, dry clean only label on coats dating as far back as 1956.

The coat is fully lined in this shiny rayon fabric.

There is none of those detailed fabric contents and care instructions labels, or remnants thereof, that would clearly identify it as a 80s-to-present garment.

Any thoughts?

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Very nice...
 

Eddie Derbyshire

Practically Family
Messages
849
Location
Riddings, Derbyshire, UK
Found an odd one today in the charity shop. I thought it was your typical 1940s/1950s waterproof top coat when I first picked it up, but looking at it more I don't know what to make of it. The fact it has four buttons for a fairly short coat, and a rather skirted cut makes me think it's older. Also, it has a rather odd overlap of the buttons. I don't think it was DB reduced to SB at any point - there shows no signs of it, and the cut doesn't suggest it. The lapels do look 40s/50s though. I dunno! It's a little snug on me (with a jacket on anyway), so I don't know whether to keep or sell! Any info you can give me about it would be appreciated folks! I'm looking to you experts here!

Sorry for the funny pose. Wanted to show of the fluted sleeves. It also puts me in mind of a shop coat - but it definitely isn't.




Thanks for looking!
 

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