Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Lady Day]

This does (will) go with the FAQ thread, but....how tall are you?

Patterns are made for a figure 5'5" and taller, generally. Ive seen 'petite' vintage patterns (made for 5'4" and under) but they are harder to find than plus size ones (I think I have one...). Some of that bulk (other than the designed drape of the garment) might be the scale is off for your body type.

Just my couple of pennies

LD

 

[MarieAnne]

Pouch sometimes happens when the darts are too darted, letting them out helps. Sometimes they need to be moved too. Did you make a muslin?
And re the ease - keep in mind that if you are a smaller size, you would have a bigger percentage of ease to remove than a larger size would. For instance, if you are a 34" hip, and you need to remove 3", that's a lot more percentage than 3" would be on a 48" hip.
It sounds as if probably your pattern is too big to begin with. And you might be buying them by size, rather than by measurements. Pattern sizes fluctuate wildly from decade to decade, company to company, so never go by the size. I am anywhere from a 12 to a 20 depending on how they size it.
So if you are 3" over, it sounds like you are buying them at least a size too big, maybe as much as 4 sizes too big. The details of the garment will be in weird places too if the size is way off, much redrafting is necessary to take things down or up more than one size.

I normally make a muslin when I resize the pattern. I didn't think it would be SO big. When I don't make a muslin, I baste all my seams and then fit the pattern.
My waist is 26 and my hips are 34; I usually buy by measurements. Maybe I am not measuring myself properly. Or perhaps I just don't have enough of an hourglass figure to fill a pencil skirt properly - and in the right places. I think I will release the two darts, closest to the front seam, they are small. Then take in the back seam a little depending on how the skirt fits my waist. I would normally take in side seams but there are none. Thanks for all your advice!

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

Maybe I am not measuring myself properly. Or perhaps I just don't have enough of an hourglass figure to fill a pencil skirt properly - and in the right places. I think I will release the two darts, closest to the front seam, they are small. Then take in the back seam a little depending on how the skirt fits my waist. I would normally take in side seams but there are none.

Where are you measuring your hips? I was measuring mine at the fullest part, around 9-10" down, but then realized the 30s-40s patterns I was buying measured at 7" down. What a relief when I figured out I wasn't actually two sizes apart on my top and bottom half! lol

Oops, didn't realize it had no side seams. Hmm. Are there side darts? If no side darts, I might be inclined to overlap the pattern where the side seams *should* be, to take out the excess.

 

[MarieAnne]

I have also been measuring my hips at their fullest:eusa_doh: I'll have to measure again. The pattern has a little note on the bottom right hand corner
about ordering by hip measurement. Once I have my new and true hip measurement, I'll use that to order fitted, skirts and dresses. Thanks everyone!

 

[Mrs. Merl]

Do you ever turn your garments inside out and see which seams you can remove excess from? This won't work great with highly out of size garments (or lined ones) - but it is how we fit anything that is super slinky, body hugging style. I have not ever had a lot of problems with patterns not fitting, but this is how we get our stuff to look perfectly fitted.

 

[MarieAnne]

Do you ever turn your garments inside out and see which seams you can remove excess from? This won't work great with highly out of size garments (or lined ones) - but it is how we fit anything that is super slinky, body hugging style. I have not ever had a lot of problems with patterns not fitting, but this is how we get our stuff to look perfectly fitted.

That sounds good. So you just put it on inside out and pinch the seams to see where you can take it in? Thanks! I took the two front darts out and the pouch vanished. The shape of the garment is much better now, I might still take it in 4/8" to make it more wiggly and close fitting. I love basting stitches!

 

[Mrs. Merl]

Yep! Just on inside out and pinch the seams - it really helps if you have another person to chalk the excess so you can see easily where you want to ease it in. When I was in high school - we did this to my senior prom dress - it fit like a glove! We still do it with some things - especially since I have a real teeny waist and larger hips. You of course cannot do this with anything that isn't super fitted.

 

[VintageRed]

Altering Patterns?

Hi hi all!

I hope I'm posting this in the right spot, but since I'm having such a hard time finding vintage pieces that fit my modern sz 16/18 body, I was wondering how hard it would be to get a pattern for what was then a size 16 and adding the few extra inches to make it fit my body shape. I'm not the best sewer, but if I can get the basics done, my mom is a great seamstress and really understands patterns, where I do not. So I thought I could get her to help me alter it to fit. I just don't know how intensive it would be. (Oh, and she lives in FL while I'm in NYC, which is why I thought I'd ask here before roping her into my crazy idea. LOL)

Any thoughts/ideas?

Thanks!

~Danielle

 

[Sickofitcindy]

To Vintage Red

Hi Danielle,

I'm in the same 16/18 boat as you and live in NYC as well. I've given up looking for vintage clothing in my size so now I make my vintage inspired. I've found it's not too hard to add a little extra to a pattern that is close to your size. It involves some math and knowing how garments should fit. I've had more failures than successes but each time I learn something new. Have you sewn much at all? If not, you may want to start off with one of the big 4 pattern companies with their reprints. There are larger patterns, you just have to keep looking. Hope that helps a little.

 

[VintageRed]

Hi Danielle,

I'm in the same 16/18 boat as you and live in NYC as well. I've given up looking for vintage clothing in my size so now I make my vintage inspired. I've found it's not too hard to add a little extra to a pattern that is close to your size. It involves some math and knowing how garments should fit. I've had more failures than successes but each time I learn something new. Have you sewn much at all? If not, you may want to start off with one of the big 4 pattern companies with their reprints. There are larger patterns, you just have to keep looking. Hope that helps a little.

Yay, I'm glad I'm not the only one. I'm starting to feel rather discouraged that I won't be able to play with the rest of the girls here in the vintage clothing. *sigh*

I can't say I really have any clothes sewing experience. I've made mostly blankets and bags and quilts and basic things. Not a lick of clothing for myself. But I have a pretty good sewing machine. Maybe if I find a pattern for something in the 40's style, I could bribe you with custom made jewelry to help me a bit by way of a sewing play date? LOL. I'm a jewelry designer, so I like to do trades where I can for services. I know that probably sounds terribly forward of me.... I'm feeling a bit desperate.

I -so badly- want to have a complete "going out" vintage outfit for my trip to the Rainbow Room with my hubby for our anniversary in April, among some other day to day pieces. I'm rather new to this whole vintage stuff, but I'm having such fun and found that the lines look better on my curves than modern dresses and clothing.

OH! And where might I go about looking for the larger patterns? I'm on page 60 of a search on ebay for "vintage 40's" which returned all kinds of fun things, but have yet to see any patterns my size. Blah.

Anyway, sorry for the ramble ladies....

I appreciate all the help...

~D.

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Vintage Red

I find most of my patterns on Ebay. Generally the sizes are mixed so I have gazillions of all size patterns. Hence the experimenting. We can definitely meet to have vintage sewing day, just keep in mind that I'm by no means an expert at this. It's mostly trial and error and error and some more errors. Before you drive yourself crazy, check out the vintage reprint Simplicity, Butterick and Vogue. Maybe those will strike your fancy for your big night out. You should check out Lady Day's page. She's the true master of taking a vintage pattern and making it work for her body. And she's frighteningly productive. In the mean time, it would be helpful if you saved or printed out pictures of ideas and think about what looks good on you. It'll make it easier picking out patterns.

 

[VintageRed]

I find most of my patterns on Ebay. Generally the sizes are mixed so I have gazillions of all size patterns. Hence the experimenting. We can definitely meet to have vintage sewing day, just keep in mind that I'm by no means an expert at this. It's mostly trial and error and error and some more errors. Before you drive yourself crazy, check out the vintage reprint Simplicity, Butterick and Vogue. Maybe those will strike your fancy for your big night out. You should check out Lady Day's page. She's the true master of taking a vintage pattern and making it work for her body. And she's frighteningly productive. In the mean time, it would be helpful if you saved or printed out pictures of ideas and think about what looks good on you. It'll make it easier picking out patterns.

I will definitely do that! Thank you so much for your kindness.

~D.

 

[Lady Day]

You should check out Lady Day's page. She's the true master of taking a vintage pattern and making it work for her body. And she's frighteningly productive. In the mean time, it would be helpful if you saved or printed out pictures of ideas and think about what looks good on you. It'll make it easier picking out patterns.

lol why, thank you, Cindy. That is so sweet!

Vintage Red, check my signature, I just put up a section on my site of yeses and nos on what patterns a plus size gal should/shouldnt wear

LD

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Lady Day,
All true! I find your site inspirational. Obviously you figured out the necessary adjustments and tweaks to get patterns to fit properly so it give me hope!

Vintage Red,
Maybe your mom can help you start sewing with a current pattern, just to dip your toe into the world of garment sewing? Now I'm thinking the Lutterloh system may be the way to go. (You can search on this board if it's unfamiliar to you). There will need to be alterations but it would put the pattern closer to your size. I do have a 40s book, though it may be late 40s. Like I said, think about what you want to make and take notes. That is your homework for this week.

 

[kamikat]

OH! And where might I go about looking for the larger patterns? I'm on page 60 of a search on ebay for "vintage 40's" which returned all kinds of fun things, but have yet to see any patterns my size. Blah...

~D.

The key to eBay is patience! You need to save a search for vintage patterns in your bust size and eBay will email you with search results. You'll get alot of junk, 60s and 70s patterns, but if you wait, you'll hit paydirt. If you are a new sewer, http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/main/?page_id=45 is a good pattern to start with and comes in a wide range of sizes. It is based on a vintage pattern and gives a good look. That's me in the lefthand picture. I think I was a size 16 when that photo was taken.
http://evadress.com/1990.html comes in a 46in bust.

 

[nico demouse]

Can anyone make a suggestion for a first pattern for an inexperienced seamstress? I have a (vintage) machine and have made very, very simple things like pajama pants. Stuff with lots of straight lines and no zippers or buttonholes.

I just picked up this pattern but am thinking maybe I need to work up to it?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you!

 

[MarieAnne]

Can anyone make a suggestion for a first pattern for an inexperienced seamstress? I have a (vintage) machine and have made very, very simple things like pajama pants. Stuff with lots of straight lines and no zippers or buttonholes.

I just picked up this pattern but am thinking maybe I need to work up to it?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you!

Do you have any dressmaking books? It doesn't have to be vintage. I look through mine all the time, for detailed illustrations on sewing button holes, zippers, collars.....Sometimes you can also find great videos on youtube. I think you should dive into the pattern. Take your time, it will be a learning experience. AmyJeanne has only recently started flexing her sewing muscle and she's made fabulous garments, each one better than the last.

 

[kamikat]

.

I just picked up this pattern but am thinking maybe I need to work up to it?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you!

That looks like a great pattern to start with, no sleeves to set in, no zip or buttons to mess up! I have a similar pattern and they are quite nice to make up. Make sure to make up your bodice in very cheap fabric to fit it first!

 

[Inky]

I don't know if you guys have seen Lady Day's great website (you can find it in her signature line), but thanks to Kamikat's post in the 30's Wardrobe Basics thread, I took a look at it and it's chock full of useful information, primarily toward plus-size patterns/looks for vintage 30's/40's, but I think anyone would find it useful. check it out:

http://www.newvintagelady.com/theladysstyletips/page.html

Thanks LD for this great info!

 

[sian kisses]

that was such a good site, thank you. and lady day you are so pretty.

xx