Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[ShoreRoadLady]

I'm just learning to sew, but I'd like to learn how to make a pattern by draping. Any good resources a skilled, draping seamstress could point me to? (I searched this thread, but didn't find any.)

I've taken both draping and patternmaking classes, but I'd hardly call myself skilled at either! I own The Art of Fashion Draping by Connie Amaden-Crawford.

In my experience, draping is great for things that are, well, drapey. Especially for those of us who don't know how to figure certain things out mathematically or on a flat sheet of paper, it's helpful. But I think it's a little overrated, and it's harder than it looks. What I'd really love is to have a better handle on pattern drafting and flat patterning. Draping takes fabric and fiddling with pins. Flat patterning - from a basic block that already fits - is more precise and you can add 1/2" to the side seams (or whatever) and be done with it. Draping, in many ways, is like making up a muslin and fiddling with it five times over. Plus, you have to have a dress dummy in your exact size (which I don't have). Don't get me wrong - it can be very helpful for some things. But overall, I prefer flat pattern work.

 

[Lady Day]

Interesting little tid-bit of the history of sewing machine design and ergonomics.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zmU8Ys9dag

LD

 

[Miss Dottie]

Interesting little tid-bit of the history of sewing machine design and ergonomics.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zmU8Ys9dag

LD

Cool! I knew a little bit from my industrial design classes, but this is pretty nifty!

 

[Miss Dottie]

Not necessarily vintage, but I had to share

I just figured out how to work my friend's serger which had been sitting unused in her apartment from almost 10 years. After tussling with it for a good 2 hours, I finally am getting good results. Hurrah!

If nothing else, I hope this will give my sewing--vintage and otherwise a more professional look.

OK--back to vintage sewing!

 

[Lauren]

Sergers are THE BEST! I use mine all the time. Helps clothes last a lot longer that you wear with any frequency. They were actually invented in the early 1900s, so they are vintage even though they weren't used that often in the clothing industry until later.

 

[Lauren]

Re: draping. I have one of the two above books, don't know which one. There's also a 40's book out there that I have called Dress Design, Draping, And Flat Pattern Making I believe, which is great for more period stuff. The most important thing to draping are knowing your grain lines and how to find the true bias. You really have to be willing to listen to your fabric and not force it into things it doesn't want to do and that takes some skill... otherwise you get lots of bumps and wrinkles even if, in theory, your seam lines and such are where they should be. There's also a lot more "rules" that are great to know for the get go, like about darts and how wide they should be and where they should end on the figures (please, please! Not on the apex! Yikes!). I love draping for evening gowns and flat pattering for things with more structure. Both have their good qualities, to be sure, but if you want to go in for draping make sure you invest in a good and real dressmakers form and not those expandable ones you use for home dressmaking. They have their good points, but draping is not one of them.

 

[Miss Neecerie]

has anyone....

tried making this:

Butterick's are on sale for 99 cents at joanns through today...and I admit I am intrigued by it and the possibility it might come out decently.

I have been looking for a dressing gown that closes (ie. that is more polite company friendly) for a while now....


thoughts?

 

[Mary]

I ruined this dress one year ago when I handwashed it in not icecold water. It shrank from a floorlengt dress with perfect loose fit to this. :rage:

Any ideas what to do with it. There's shoulderpads I haven't sewn in and a dress to have underneath that didn't shrank. It's just sitting in my closet so any ideas would be appreciated!

 

[Lauren]

tried making this:

Butterick's are on sale for 99 cents at joanns through today...and I admit I am intrigued by it and the possibility it might come out decently.

I have been looking for a dressing gown that closes (ie. that is more polite company friendly) for a while now....


thoughts?

Heck, for 99 cents, just go get it anyways!
I tried a few of their retro patterns when they first came out, but they didn't really look like the illustrations that much. They lowered the armholes and added lots of ease. Probably get a size or two smaller than you normally would.

 

[Mary]

And do you have any ideas what to do with a kneelengt dress with small holes in it and a spot. I'd love to use it in one way or another,cause it was my grandmothers. It's from the year before my dad was born.

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

tried making this:

Butterick's are on sale for 99 cents at joanns through today...and I admit I am intrigued by it and the possibility it might come out decently.

I have that pattern, but I've never sewn it up. If you get it, let us know how it goes!

 

[MissAmelina]

Sizing Dilemma....

Howdy Ladies!

You know how the newer patterns are all based on specific measurements, and you can go out and buy the McCall's/Vogue/Butterick fitting shell, make it up, know where to nip and tuck and then make the corresponding adjustments for all current patterns made by those companies?

Does this apply to the older patterns as well?

Meaning, if I have to shorten the back and take in the waist on one 1939 Simplicity pattern, will other Simplicity patterns from 1939 more than likely need the same adjustments? Thereby omitting the need to make a mock-up of each and every garment? (There....the lazed truth comes out....)

I would love to know if anyone has made this discovery, as it would save a bit of time for us lazy seamstresses that like to fly by the seat of our tap pants.

Cheers!

 

[mackenzie]

About zippers,
I find it easier to put them in if I baste them in before I start sewing and I always put in the zipper before I sew the rest of the seam, that way I avoid the bulge that has a tendency to appear...
If I make a dress I always leave a bit of the seam just over the start and end of the zipper that I sew (sow?) by hand to avoid bulging.

 

[tempestbella42]

About zippers,
I find it easier to put them in if I baste them in before I start sewing and I always put in the zipper before I sew the rest of the seam, that way I avoid the bulge that has a tendency to appear...
If I make a dress I always leave a bit of the seam just over the start and end of the zipper that I sew (sow?) by hand to avoid smetimes put the zipper in first even!bulging.

Both these work for me and on a dress i sometimes even put the zipper in first!!

 

[Laughing Magpie]

I completely agree - sew the zipper (or other closure) first, if you can. Not only is it easier to put them in nicely while your pattern pieces are flat, it helps psychologically if (like me) closures are the part you dislike the most

I may not post much, but you ladies keep me inspired to continue sewing vintage!

 

[Inky]

I agree - put that zipper in first if you can. I've always done that with pants and skirts. When I made my first vintage pattern ever this year (after sewing for over 30 years - what was I waiting for!!) that side zipper was a real pain in my...uh, side

 

[tempestbella42]

I completely agree - sew the zipper (or other closure) first, if you can. Not only is it easier to put them in nicely while your pattern pieces are flat, it helps psychologically if (like me) closures are the part you dislike the most

I may not post much, but you ladies keep me inspired to continue sewing vintage!

yep... thats why i do it! i dont like them either!

 

[Lady Day]

I lump my zipper with all the notions, I put them in last.

I only put zippers in on the seam. Ill measure the area, and while Im sewing the garment, I switch to a basting stitch on my machine, sew the zipper opening with it, then go back to my normal stitch to finish sewing.

After that I press open the seam, lay in the zipper, pin it, then sew it in via a zipper foot. Once its in, I rip out the baste of the seam, and the item is ready to wear!

LD

 

[Lauren]

Agree! Zippers first! Makes it lay right, and not get lumpy bumpy. I put invisible zippers in sideseams and I used to sew them in very last but would get an ugly bubble right at my hipline. After I read in Threads to put in invisible zippers and then pin the edge and then continue the seam my life was a happier place, and bump-free (well, kind of, but doesn't it sound like an old ad?)

 

[Rachael]

The only problem I have had with inserting the zipper first is if I need to make any fit adjustments. The can be avoided by basting the major seams first, trying on for size, then starting with the zipper.