Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Lady Day]

You may have to plan an outing for fabric, out of city or out of state. Save up, and drive to a destination, stock up, and get drunk on fabric

See if there are ladies in your area, or ask the folks at your local fabric store where they go Im sure they dont get all their stuff from where they work.

LD

 

[Lauren]

Miss Amelina, For that blouse I'd probably use a cotton lawn or batiste in a solid color. If you want to jazz it up you could always add contrast trim or piping. Both batiste and lawn are semi sheer so you'll need to wear a cami under them, but they are both authentic for vintage.
I ditto fashionfabricsclub.com for lawn or try farmhousefabrics.com for batiste.
Quilting cottons are too thick for blouses for the most part, unless they are cut very straight with no gathering.

 

[Rachael]

You may have to plan an outing for fabric, out of city or out of state. Save up, and drive to a destination, stock up, and get drunk on fabric

LD

I just noticed your location. A lot of people road trip down to Portland to shop at Mill End Fabrics and Fabric Depot. If you make the trip, I would recommend the eastside Mill End. They have a great selection of couture fabrics as well as outerwear, cottons, etc. If you get on their mailing list, they send out quarterly coupons for 25% off your whole purchase. Fabric Depot is a little more quilter-friendly but still has a great selection (and they always have a sale going).

 

[Marzipan]

Inky, those are so glam! I imagine myself wearing a Spanish mantilla with a couple of those... very bohemian.

Question for the sewers:

1) what kind of machine is good for a beginner?

2) is making your own vintage clothes cheaper than purchasing on ebay?

thanks!

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Beginner sewing

Hi Marzipan,

I started out with a Kenmore from Sears and it was fine to start with. It had decorative stitches which I never used but never had any problems with it. I've since upgraded to a Viking with embroidery options but I sew ALOT. That's a far pricier machine but clearly I'm into this sewing thing for the long haul. I see that you're from WMass. My parents live out there near Springfield. If you're nearby and interested in checking out my old one, I'd sell you mine for a reasonable price.

As for sewing vintage, I've never been able to buy anything vintage due to my size so sewing makes the most sense to me. Plus, I know that the fit will be right and I can choose the fabric, trim, etc. I like the control.

Hope that helps a little
-Cindy

 

[Inky]

I'm not going to give you machine specific advise, just get one that is easy to use but does a variety of stitches, including buttonholes. I would buy a used one and check places like craigslist - or even freecycle. You will probably need to take it to a sewing machine shop for a good cleaning and oiling, but that will be a worthwhile investment, or you can do it yourself (make sure the machine you buy has it's owners manual - that's important for the future).

I sew primarily on a 1938 Singer Featherweight that only sews straight stitches, forwards and back, but I love it. When I need zig-zag or button holes, I pull out a late 80's Kenmore workhorse that I have. Nothing fancy, gets the job done.

I think sewing vintage can be cheaper than buying for sure, unless you get crazy with pattern collecting. Someone here is learning and started with apron patterns. Vintage patterns can be daunting compared to modern ones because usually the pieces are unprinted and there is less help in the pattern instructions for new sewers.

I would start with taking a class or having a friend show you, and make an apron. Butterick has a couple cute vintage apron patterns like this one here.

I love sewing and there are so many great vintage patterns and vintage reproduction patterns available.

 

[Amy Jeanne]

I'm a beginner, but I've dove right in. I'm making stuff from vintage patterns and I bought myself a brother sewing machine with all kinds of functions (more than I need right now!) I also have a 1938 Kenmore Rotary DeLuxe.

I learned basics from a professional seamstress, and we do get to together every now and again to sew, but I've been doing most of my sewing/learning by myself.

Just yesterday I taught myself buttonholes, I sewed on buttons, and I also did 2 different types of darts. All just using logic and common sense. That's all sewing really is.

I've got a few vintage and vintage repro patterns. They were all reasonably priced. I also like that I get to pick my own fabric. I don't wear real vintage clothes at all -- too delicate for me and I sometimes feel like I'm disrespecting the item by putting too much wear on it. I also like to be comfortable and I'm prone to clumsiness. Vintage patterns give me the vintage look with the modern durability. And if it does wear out -- I can always make another!

 

[newtovintage]

Revising Patterns?

Hi ladies, I have another question. I wasn't sure exactly how to put this in a search so I have to ask. My budget for clothing is really tight (well everything is), but anyhow I want to totally redo my entire wardrobe and I need a few tips (and serious help). My mother has plenty of fabric and lots of patterns that I can use if I want. The first problem is most of her patterns are from the 60s-80s. She has a about 5 from the 50s and 1 blouse pattern from the 40s. My lifestyle is very simple, mainly involving church and my close family, so there is not a large need for extravagant clothes. Everyone around me is low key on their clothing. I am always flip-flopping between eras, but I would like a specific one to concentrate on. I need an era that works with who I am and my lifestyle. Don't get me wrong I love getting dressed up. But not to extremes. I live in a very small town. So my first need is what I mentioned above. My real question is, is it possible to alter a pattern from the 60s-80s and make it appear truly vintage. Another question what types of fabrics would be best to lend a vintage feel. Oh, I should include, although some may have read on previous posts of mine, that I am a pear shape (or so I believe) 40B,36,49, definitely not the slenderest type. I have been looking into Regency clothing for a dress I want to construct for a Christmas party, and possibly that may be a way to go. I really don't know. I just need advice. I'm terrible at making up my mind about clothing. Soo sorry for the EXTREMELY long post. Thank you in advance for just taking the time to read this.
Sarah

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

The first problem is most of her patterns are from the 60s-80s. She has a about 5 from the 50s and 1 blouse pattern from the 40s.
...
My real question is, is it possible to alter a pattern from the 60s-80s and make it appear truly vintage.

What's your *favorite* period, or your two favorite periods? First off is to determine which era you want to inspire you most. I've got nothing against era-mixing, but if you're tight on funds and fabric, you'll want to choose things that work well together, and the best way to do that is to pick one period, say 30s-40s, 40s-50s, or 50s-60s (and not try to do 20s-30s-40s-50s!). If you don't mind being authentic to any one particular era, you can pick and choose so long as everything works together.

(And I assume you're looking for mostly casual/casual-dressy clothes, from what you said.)

I'd start with the 40s-50s patterns, if that's what you like. A number of 80s patterns could work for 40s, but it really depends on the pattern. The big thing with 80s sleeves is the huge shoulder pads and and the dropped underarm seams. You can alter the shoulder pads out or minimize them, but raising the armhole is going to be much tougher. Avoid those if possible.

Some 70s stuff can work for 30s, especially with the right fabrics and trimming, or a little alteration here or there.

Sixties patterns might be harder to adapt to a 30s-50s look.

The best idea is probably to browse lots of genuine vintage patterns online, and see what the differences are. General shapes often repeat themselves, and the differences are in the little details.

Another question what types of fabrics would be best to lend a vintage feel.

Depends muchly on the pattern you're making. Natural fibers - cotton, rayon, wool, and silk - are good. The type will depend on the type of dress. Wool/rayon/silk crepes, fine twills, and plain weaves are pretty classic.

I have been looking into Regency clothing for a dress I want to construct for a Christmas party, and possibly that may be a way to go.

Have you thought about not making something strictly Regency, but rather Regency-inspired? An empire dress with a gathered bodice and a less full skirt would perhaps be more slimming, and you could wear it to more events. Perhaps something like this, which *is* a Regency pattern, but it's not as full as the ones you've posted.

Don't neglect accessories! You can buy or make things like self-fabric belts, purses, etc. for cheap. (Even hats, if you're crafty. But maybe not cheap.)

 

[newtovintage]

What's your *favorite* period, or your two favorite periods? First off is to determine which era you want to inspire you most. I've got nothing against era-mixing, but if you're tight on funds and fabric, you'll want to choose things that work well together, and the best way to do that is to pick one period, say 30s-40s, 40s-50s, or 50s-60s (and not try to do 20s-30s-40s-50s!). If you don't mind being authentic to any one particular era, you can pick and choose so long as everything works together.

(And I assume you're looking for mostly casual/casual-dressy clothes, from what you said.)

I'd start with the 40s-50s patterns, if that's what you like. A number of 80s patterns could work for 40s, but it really depends on the pattern. The big thing with 80s sleeves is the huge shoulder pads and and the dropped underarm seams. You can alter the shoulder pads out or minimize them, but raising the armhole is going to be much tougher. Avoid those if possible.

Some 70s stuff can work for 30s, especially with the right fabrics and trimming, or a little alteration here or there.

Sixties patterns might be harder to adapt to a 30s-50s look.

The best idea is probably to browse lots of genuine vintage patterns online, and see what the differences are. General shapes often repeat themselves, and the differences are in the little details.



Depends muchly on the pattern you're making. Natural fibers - cotton, rayon, wool, and silk - are good. The type will depend on the type of dress. Wool/rayon/silk crepes, fine twills, and plain weaves are pretty classic.



Have you thought about not making something strictly Regency, but rather Regency-inspired? An empire dress with a gathered bodice and a less full skirt would perhaps be more slimming, and you could wear it to more events. Perhaps something like this, which *is* a Regency pattern, but it's not as full as the ones you've posted.

Don't neglect accessories! You can buy or make things like self-fabric belts, purses, etc. for cheap. (Even hats, if you're crafty. But maybe not cheap.)

Well, it's hard to say what era is my favorite. I suppose the era that I love the most is the 40s, although 1939 I like as well. The main problem that I have had with it is that it would seem like the skirts wouldn't be long enough for winter. I live in Ohio and it can get quite cold. But I would say that 40s are my favorite, I love almost every era, going as far back as the Regency. I suppose I could try to find thick stockings for winter. One thing, are the 40s appropriate for full, rather large hips? I haven't seen many women that have full, large hips. Another thing, if it's not too much trouble could you PM me a list of clothing items, accessories, and outerwear that would be appropriate for winter? I would really appreciate it. Thank you for your help.
Sarah

 

[Rachael]

While this isn't directly a sewing question, this seemed like a place to post this.

I have just been accepted as a sewing instructor at our local Arts Center. Up until now, they have not had any needlecraft courses offered, just clay, canvas, and theater. I'm starting off with basic courses (know your machine, handsewing) Then will be offering a few construction courses, one on making a market/shopping bag, and a 3-session class on making a skirt that fits.

The question is, what essentials do you find you can't live without? I'm working up my curriculum in the next week or so, and I just know I'm going to overlook something vital. I was going over in my head a list of 'things one should never skip no matter what' and 'advice that has served me well'. I would love to hear from others on what they would put in a class like this.

Thanks!

 

[Inky]

Congrats!! Teaching sewing is so much fun - That was my second job back in the late 70's.

Okay, some things I remember, in no particular order of importance:

1. how to read a pattern envelope and buying the right fabric for said pattern.
2. get a good seam ripper and learn how to use it properly
3. the importance of sewing machine maintenance
4. how to measure yourself
5. What does "nap" mean and why does it matter.

Those are my first five pre-coffee thoughts

Good luck!

 

[Foofoogal]

http://www.tias.com/7617/PictPage/3923200533.html

I just sold this marvelous book and hope maybe someone of FL may of bought it. I have no idea what a flat pattern is vs nonflat pattern is. Can someone maybe clue me in now? All I know is they had some of the most amazing outfits in there ever. lol

 

[Lauren]

Flat patterning is designing patterns through blocks (front bodice, back bodice, front skirt, back skirt, sleeve, front pants, back pants) and making different variations based on those. Draping is taking fabric and draping the design on a dress form. Professional forms are marked for seamlines, so listening to your fabric but still playing by some rules to create the effect you need. One is more mathematical and one is more... freeform? Though both involve math and a foundation of basic principles of each technique. Btw, I have that book and adore it Wish I could have used that one in school instead of the 80s textbooks we had.

 

[Foofoogal]

Thank you Lauren. I was amazed and truly say that the drawings of the outfits would take a master to make. Craftsmanship at its best. I made banana darts on a dress back in high school and it took forever. Cannot imagine anyone doing all the cuts I saw in that book and actually have it hang right on a human being.
My maternal grandmother was a master self taught seamstress. During the depression I am told she was able to make money by going to any store window. She would see a dress or outfit in the window and go home and use newspaper to make the pattern. She made dresses for something like $1.00 each or something. She sewed up into her 90's.
A good seamstress is as hard to find as a good cook. You either have it or you don't.

 

[Mrs. Merl]

Awww, Foofoogal my great grandmother was like that too! My mother tells stories of her grandmother seeing a dress in a catalog and the next week she would be wearing it! I am trying to foster this talent myself...we will see how that goes!

 

[Foofoogal]

http://www.housefabric.com
http://www.bridalfabric.com

I bought my fabric to have a seamstress make my MOB outfit. It was stunning fabric and I was pleased with their service.

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

Well, it's hard to say what era is my favorite. I suppose the era that I love the most is the 40s, although 1939 I like as well. The main problem that I have had with it is that it would seem like the skirts wouldn't be long enough for winter. I live in Ohio and it can get quite cold. But I would say that 40s are my favorite, I love almost every era, going as far back as the Regency. I suppose I could try to find thick stockings for winter. One thing, are the 40s appropriate for full, rather large hips? I haven't seen many women that have full, large hips. Another thing, if it's not too much trouble could you PM me a list of clothing items, accessories, and outerwear that would be appropriate for winter? I would really appreciate it. Thank you for your help.
Sarah

So, late 30s-1940s? If you look to the earlier part of the 1930s, there are a number of longer skirts (usually calf length). During the early- to mid-1940s, day skirts were generally at the knee, but evening and hostess gowns could be longer. The late 1940s brought the "New Look", when hemlines dipped once again. Thick stockings, widelegged pants, and tights (not so vintage, but they work) are some ideas. I'm afraid I'm actually not up on my vintage winter options, so I'll have to defer to the more knowledgeable ladies here. I think there's a thread about winter clothes floating around in the Powder Room, and probably one further back in the archives. You can try searching the archives on Google - do a search including the phrase "site:www.thefedoralounge.com", which searches only the Fedora Lounge. Sorry I can't be of more help with the winter things!

The body shape questions are mostly answered here, and you could probably search for "body shape" to pull up more. Short answer: plenty of women had wide hips in the 40s! They also wore girdles, which smoothed the hips - check the Underpinnings thread for more info. Note that vintage patterns were designed for women with pear or hourglass measurements.

I'm pretty new to vintage clothing, but just looking at patterns has been incredibly helpful. Some sites to try:

Cemetarian
EvaDress
Vintage Martini
The Blue Gardenia
Any of the links on Dress A Day's sidebar.
And of course, browsing through Ebay.

If you need any other patterns, try BurdaStyle. Most of the patterns are free and downloadable to your computer for printing out. (Registration is required, but free.) None are precisely vintage, but they can be altered, and...they're free.

Accessories, particularly ones you can make:

VintageSewing.info - Millinery book from the 1950s, but it has purse/bag directions too. In fact, all of VintageSewing is worth checking out.
AntiqueDress.com - several pages of accessories from all eras. Always plenty of eye candy
1940s Crocheted Handbags

Oh, and Lady Day just posted a purse she made from vintage instructions - *and* the instructions.

 

[live vintageous]

Draping

I'm just learning to sew, but I'd like to learn how to make a pattern by draping. Any good resources a skilled, draping seamstress could point me to? (I searched this thread, but didn't find any.)

 

[MissAmelina]

I'm just learning to sew, but I'd like to learn how to make a pattern by draping. Any good resources a skilled, draping seamstress could point me to? (I searched this thread, but didn't find any.)

This is also something I have been interested in and after doing a bunch of research I read that this textbook has everything you need to know, short of hands-on classroom instruction:

Draping for Apparel Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong

It's a bit pricy, but I bet you could find a used one if you keep looking. I am interested to read what others have to say too!