Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[MissAmelina]

LD, that is some helpful, helpful business. LOVE your tips. You are rad. Seriously.:eusa_clap

 

[Lady Day]

Aw, thanks gals

Im just an old-ish lady shouting out the side of my face. Glad you find it useful.

LD

 

[Cleery]

I'm really appreciative of this part of the thread. I'm a size 22/24 plus size woman and a want-to-be sewer (seamstress seems too grand a word). Also, I want to add my admiration for Lady Day's website. I love it! I printed out all your style tips.

Cleery

 

[VintageRed]

Where are you measuring your hips? I was measuring mine at the fullest part, around 9-10" down, but then realized the 30s-40s patterns I was buying measured at 7" down. What a relief when I figured out I wasn't actually two sizes apart on my top and bottom half! lol

Uh-oh, this is something I didn't know while measuring also. From what point are they measuring 7" down? I've been measuring the fullest part too. Perhaps my patterns aren't as big as I thought they might be!

I'll take a smaller size any day!



~D.

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

Uh-oh, this is something I didn't know while measuring also. From what point are they measuring 7" down? I've been measuring the fullest part too. Perhaps my patterns aren't as big as I thought they might be!

I'll take a smaller size any day!



~D.

You'd measure down from the natural waist. I *think* the modern way of doing it is to go down another couple of inches and measure the fullest part, around the bum. But my 1943 Simplicity pattern specifically stated that the hips were measured at 7" below the waist.

 

[VintageRed]

Thank you ma'am, that's a great tip for us novice measurers.

Much obliged!

~D.

 

[VintageRed]

Update on great pattern source!

If anyone is interested who is of the "curvier" group, after days of scouring links, I found a really great source for patterns!

They do reproductions of vintage patterns that have been updated with current sewing jargon and what not, but follow the designs true to form. They also offer them in all sorts of sizes, all the way up to a bust measurement of 46"!

My apologies if this link has been previously posted somewhere:

http://www.decadesofstyle.com/index.php


Oh, and I queried the gals in my local Freecycle group, and I found a wonderful lady who sews all sorts of clothing and she offered to walk me through a couple of patterns and teach me the ways of a seamstress! She even offered to take me to her fabric warehouse she goes to so I don't have to pay the ridiculous prices at local fabric shops. I'm so excited, I can't wait to get my first pattern.

Cheers,

~D.

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

Decades of Style patterns are on my "want-to-buy-someday" list. It was certainly a great business idea! I think EvaDress has some multi-size vintage repro patterns, too.

Oh, and I queried the gals in my local Freecycle group, and I found a wonderful lady who sews all sorts of clothing and she offered to walk me through a couple of patterns and teach me the ways of a seamstress! She even offered to take me to her fabric warehouse she goes to so I don't have to pay the ridiculous prices at local fabric shops. I'm so excited, I can't wait to get my first pattern.

That's great!

 

[Lauren]

I have used Decades of Style and they're GREAT patterns. I like that they give you the finished garment measurements, too... saves a lot of time in figuring sizing!

 

[Lauren]

You'd measure down from the natural waist. I *think* the modern way of doing it is to go down another couple of inches and measure the fullest part, around the bum. But my 1943 Simplicity pattern specifically stated that the hips were measured at 7" below the waist.

Yup, yup. And the easiest way to find your natural waist is to tie a ribbon or string around the smallest part of your waist- usually around your belly button. 7" down from there is generally where the widest part is when they draft patterns, but if you measurement is larger down a little farther, you'll want to use that measure. Sometimes it's more around 9" from the waist for the modern figure

 

[Lady Day]

Im planning on making this blouse in black velvet, and using my 20s buttons on it. My question is, because the buttons are super small (about 5/8") should I do a loop for the button closure, or a regular button hole? Im concerned with doing small button holes on velvet.

What would you ladies suggest?

Thanks

LD

 

[Lauren]

I also have hesitations about buttonholes on velvet, unless they're bound buttonholes. Something I have done in the past is hooks and bars to fasten and then sew the buttons on the top of the overlap so it looks like it buttons but it doesn't. You can also alternate hooks and bars with snaps and that will keep it closed. And it's a period technique as well

 

[$ally]

I agree with Lauren on the button issue.

As to measuring 7" down; that doesn't work for me as I'm only 5'4" and proportionally short-waisted from rib to hip.

 

[Lady Day]

Thanks ladies.

I honestly never thought of that :eusa_doh: When it comes to buttons I always think they have to be functional, never merely decorative.


LD

 

[deadpandiva]

I was wondering if anyone has this pattern or one similar? I was reading the instructions and I don't understand how to do the back skirt pleat. It is different then the one in front and the instructions are not clear.

 

[MarieAnne]

I was wondering if anyone has this pattern or one similar? I was reading the instructions and I don't understand how to do the back skirt pleat. It is different then the one in front and the instructions are not clear.

I'm working on a similar skirt with a back pleat. The pleat on my skirt is like a rectangular extension that's pressed to one side.I'm still working out the details myself.

And I learned something new today. I have a Singer Spartan; it has a drop in bobbin mechanism. Everything runs smoothly but the threat seems to get caught in the bobbin. I've had this machine several months now and I have tried everything to fix it. And today I learned that there is a special class of bobbin, class-66, which is specially designed for drop-in mechanisms :eusa_doh: I JUST got home from shopping so I haven't try sewing with it yet, but I did put the bobbin into the machine and the lip of the bobbin sits just below the assembly....it looks very promising. I wish I had known this months ago!

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

I was wondering if anyone has this pattern or one similar? I was reading the instructions and I don't understand how to do the back skirt pleat. It is different then the one in front and the instructions are not clear.

DeadpanDiva, could you scan/take a photo of the instructions? I just finished a '30s skirt with front pleats that were made like box pleats, but then pressed to the side. This could be something similar; it's a combination between an inverted box pleat and a knife pleat.

If you just have an extension on each skirt piece, and no underlay, then you've got a kick pleat on your hands.

 

[Lady Day]

DPD, the back pleat looks like the front pleat except their is top stitching. Is the pleat piece separately cut from the skirt, or is it just a fold over to meet in the middle?

Either way Id baste the entire pleat closed, sew on the piece (if needed), top stitch the pleat to the length you want, then take out the baste when you are ready to hem.

LD

 

[VintageRed]

Crazy question, but do you have to have a sewer's mannequin in order to make the outfits?

I was just thinking how excited I was and was reading the "show us what you made" thread and realized that almost everyone shows their pieces on the mannequin.

I don't have one, so I'm wondering now if I need to find one somewhere in order to make my wearables.

Thank you!

~D.

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Crazy question, but do you have to have a sewer's mannequin in order to make the outfits?

I was just thinking how excited I was and was reading the "show us what you made" thread and realized that almost everyone shows their pieces on the mannequin.

I don't have one, so I'm wondering now if I need to find one somewhere in order to make my wearables.

Thank you!

~D.

No you don't have to have a mannequin but I find it a lot easier to hem and alter with one. Unless someone can help you, it's kind of a pain to alter clothes while wearing them. Check Freecycle, I"ve seen some up there from time to time.