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[Rabbit]

Scotts upbrim fedora Part II

Scotts logo with the U.S. patent:

Taped rear seam:

Welted edge. You can also see the basting stitches on the ribbon:

Ad from 1928 showing (in the middle) a Dobbs with cav edge in a similar style:

 

[Alive'n'Amplified]

Gorgeous liner and beautiful rolled brim!!

 

[DJH]

Great photos, Nik!!

 

[hatophile]

Rabbit that hat is a Holy Grail for sure.

 

[RobStC]

Rabbit that hat is a Holy Grail for sure.

Indeed. Quite the most gorgeous hat I've seen here for a long while..... Simply outstanding. :eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

RobStC

BTW: I'm the same size as you, should you ever grow tired of it!

 

[randooch]

Great photos, Nik!!

+1

A-n-A, your Dobbs is quite nice, too!

 

[bowlerman]

ooooh, she's very pretty!
AnA-- great Dobbs, too! wonderful proportions.

 

[m0nk]

Two new wonderful hats! And that ad is quite a find!

 

[seabass]

Rabbit,
Outstanding, This is the reason I can't stay away from this great forum.

 

[Rabbit]

Thank you all, Gentlemen. The sizing information provided made this buy quite a gamble, and surprisingly enough it does not only fit but it fits perfectly. Aside from the fit, it's definitely one of the most interesting hats I've handled.

By the way, you can find lots of interesting hat ads in these threads:

Hat Advertisements of 1928

A Decade of Schoble Hats 1912-1922

The ad I posted is from the Lounge as well, I can't recall which thread, though.

 

[delectans]

Splendid, Nik. A great example of a Lord's Hat.

 

[Rabbit]

Actually, I'm not sure about the terminology. From what I've found, a Lord's hat has a more exaggerated brim curl and a raw brim. The Scotts looks more like the upbrim fedoras of the 20s of which there were many variations - some had raw brims, some welted, some cav edges.

Alan's Stetson 7X CB Mode Edge comes to mind as another example of a hat in this style from a later vintage than 1920s, and then I also found a 1920s upbrim fedora from Robert.

Alan's Stetson 7X CB Mode Edge:

Robert's Lion hats upbrim fedora with overwelt:

 

[alanfgag]

That's so funny... just catching your new hat and was about to share a link to these photos of the 7X Intrigue. It is also a 1940s hat.

I love your latest find!

 

[delectans]

Actually, I'm not sure about the terminology. From what I've found, a Lord's hat has a more exaggerated brim curl and a raw brim. The Scotts looks more like the upbrim fedoras of the 20s of which there were many variations - some had raw brims, some welted, some cav edges.

The Lord's Hat is a loosely defined term, at best, referring to an "unbound" brim hat with Homburg lines, most consistently worn with side pinches, and meant to convey a more informal appearance than a proper Homburg. I am not certain that the degree of curl is necessarily a defining characteristic, but no doubt this is a matter of semantics and open to debate.

 

[Joshbru3]

Actually, I'm not sure about the terminology. From what I've found, a Lord's hat has a more exaggerated brim curl and a raw brim. The Scotts looks more like the upbrim fedoras of the 20s of which there were many variations - some had raw brims, some welted, some cav edges.

First off, I wanted to congradulate you on an absolutely outstanding hat!! Your right about the lords hat. Sometimes its very hard to tell the difference between a lords hat and an early upbrim fedora. I now own that teens/20's Stetson and the brim is curled right after the welt stitching which is about a 1/4 inch curl. Its a neat effect because it kind of hides the welt inside the curl, but the felt isn't curled over, its literally almost a 90 degree angle.

This was a VERY common brim treatment before the snap brim really took off in popularity. There has always been down brims, and the early forms of snap brims, but the up-brim was king at one time. The style was either worn as a flatter up-brim or pulled down front and back.

My 1916 Stetson Pacemaker was sold on ebay as a Homburg, but its neither a homburg nor is it a lords hat. Its a fedora with an upbrim and 1/4 inch curl. Its meant to be worn with the front and back pulled down.

The curl is almost straight up verses being curled over:

and is meant to be worn like so:

However a lord's hat is something a little different. Its a hat that's very similar to a upbrimmed fedora, however its more of a homburg than a fedora. A lords hat is essentially a homburg without the brim binding. Its a bit less formal than a homburg, but a bit more formal than a fedora.

Here's a 1930's Emerson Lords Hat

The curl is a bit more promounced but I believe the major factor is that the curl folds over itself slightly verses being at almost 90 degrees straight up

 

[Rabbit]

I quite agree, Al. Perhaps Robert would have some more information on the matter? It would be interesting to learn if there is any historical consistency to the terms used in our discussion.

Edit: Thank you so much for the info and pics, Josh. It's consistent with my findings; the Scott has a ninety-degree-curl that effectively hides the welt just as on the early upbrim fedoras. The very few lord's hats I've ever seen had a Homburg-ish curl in the terminology of Homburgs as we know them today.

 

[Rabbit]

Here are the auction pics of a Cavanagh Lord's hat from the late 50s or 60s that was sold on ebay recently (not mine):

 

[Rabbit]

That's so funny... just catching your new hat and was about to share a link to these photos of the 7X Intrigue. It is also a 1940s hat.

I love your latest find!

Thank you, Alan. Your 7XB is an amazing hat.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Rabbit that hat is a Holy Grail for sure.

Nik; +1. That is truly a spectacular hat. Just the felt alone puts into the "special" catagory. The exquisite details and craftsmanship make it the "top shelf" of hats I have seen. Excellent example of the time, effort and hand work that was taken with pride many decades ago. The exterior is very attractive, but when you flip the hat over the interior and detail quality are aboundant. A hat show stopper, IMO.

Wear it with pride sir. Eric -

 

[Brad Bowers]

The earliest advertising references in the United States to a Lord's Hat date only to the late-1930s.

No depictions in any of the ads, but this description of a Lord's Hat comes from an article on current hat trends in the Youngstown Vindicator, October 9, 1938.

"The Lord's hat, which is comparatively new and last season achieved great popularity in the larger metropolitan areas, is black, worn with the crown pinched and the raw edge brim turned up."

A 1939 ad touts Dunlap's "famous Lord's hat."

Sounds pretty loosely defined.

Brad