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Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
Even though the Europeans used this stitching technique for a longer time, the basting stitches were VERY common on American made hats in the 30's. The reason that you do not see too many hats from that era with them is because they were never meant to be left in. The point of the basting stitch was for shipping hats and stacking them in retail stores. It keeps the ribbon from folding down and over. Most retailers and customers removed them. The hats that seem to still keep them in are the very well preserved hats that most likely weren't worn very much or not at all.

Makes perfect sense. Thanks, Josh.
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
Makes perfect sense. Thanks, Josh.

No problem. :)

Here's a couple examples of American 1930's hats with the stitches still left in:


1930's Mallory with Basting stitches

green5.jpg



1930's Pennys (LEE) Marathon with Basting stitches

DSC06723.jpg
 

Paul Roerich

"A List" Customer
Messages
435
Location
New York City
Even though the Europeans used this stitching technique for a longer time, the basting stitches were VERY common on American made hats in the 30's. The reason that you do not see too many hats from that era with them is because they were never meant to be left in. The point of the basting stitch was for shipping hats and stacking them in retail stores. It keeps the ribbon from folding down and over. Most retailers and customers removed them. The hats that seem to still keep them in are the very well preserved hats that most likely weren't worn very much or not at all.


Fascinating! Thanks, Joshbru! It raises a question: why do so many vintage used European-made/European-market hats have their basting still intact, versus relatively few vintage used American-made/American-market hats? Did European hat wearers like to leave it intact?
 

mikespens

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,913
Location
Tacoma, Wa
This basting stitch thing could be a separate thread. Here's a 60's Borso FU Lazzaro that has what appears to be a basting stitch behind the ribbon, it's always puzzled me:

P1000689.jpg
 
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Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
Fascinating! Thanks, Joshbru! It raises a question: why do so many vintage used European-made/European-market hats have their basting still intact, versus relatively few vintage used American-made/American-market hats? Did European hat wearers like to leave it intact?

I don't really know if there's an answer for that one. I'm unsure if the Europeans just used basting stitches for longer and therefore there are more hats out there or if Europeans found a usefulness in keeping them in. I've never read anything that would supply info one way or the other. I do know that Europeans used different practices in hatting during different times in history than the Americans. Un-reeded sweatbands were very popular in the 1930's America and then by the early 40's they were not really being used anymore for the most part. In Europe, Borsalino used un-reeded sweatbands for years after the 1930's on many of their lightweight hats and seem to have a better track record for sweatbands actually staying in their hats verses the American companies.
 

Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
Foster Brothers The Zephyr Bowler UK lightweight unlined

A lightweight early English Bowler with moderately flexible construction. Straight block shape and surprisingly thin construction of the bound edge.
A wonderful hat and a perfect fit.Thank you so much, Steve!


FosterBrothersTheZephyrBowlerUK1910-30lightweightunlined_zps8f0bdeb8.jpg


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Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
The rusty spike has been getting a lot of good use of late.
I bet the top part is worn smooth and shiny :)

They do seem to come in batches, don't they?
After a hiatus during the summer months I found eight irresistible hats in less than three weeks, and I'm beginning to get extremely picky. lol
 
Messages
1,184
Location
NJ/phila
Since I am still a study in progress in regard to these great fedora's here on FL, please lend some advice on the subject of UNLINED HATS.

Were the unlined hats actually LINED at one time? Or did the hats come straight from the maker UNLINED?
Were unlined hats less expensive then the silk/satin lined hats? I see some great unlined hats on the bay and etsy and I avoid purchasing them because of being unlined. Possibly due to my ignorance I am missing the boat on some great deals.

I also had an idea to purchase these unlined hats and simply lined them with some old silk tie material/ties that I no longer wear.

Trying to learn so thanks in advance for any reply's and opinions.
Best regards
CCJOE
 
Messages
15,072
Location
Buffalo, NY
Were the unlined hats actually LINED at one time? Or did the hats come straight from the maker UNLINED?

Yes and yes.

Some hats, including many lightweight designs, were sold unlined. And many liners were soiled by hair preparations and might have been removed at some point during the hat's life.

If you find an unlined hat with a tip sticker, label or imprint in the crown, it most likely was designed to be sold without a liner.

happy hunting!
 

scooter

Practically Family
Messages
905
Location
Arizona
While I am certainly no expert, I believe that most came lined, but certain hats, particularly light weight felts such a Nokabouts, Featherweights, Vagabonds, and others came unlined; the belief being that the lack of the liner kept the hats from retaining as much heat and kept the head cooler. Without question, some of the hats you see started out with liners and had them removed at some point, but while I suppose it diminishes the value in the eyes of some collectors to a degree, they are still superb hats and well worth purchasing.
 

Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
Some liner-less hats were orginally unlined, some had the liner removed (due to heavy stains, for instance). More often than not, original unlined hats have a tip liner (tip sticker) or an imprint at the crown roof. Some have ventilation holes, too.
A liner-less hat without any logos and with an unpounced inside of the crown felt is usually (but not always) a hat that's missing the liner.
 

Iyor

One of the Regulars
Messages
200
Location
NYC
Josh, that Mallory is a great looking hat!

I have a borsalino that I believe is from the 1960s that has basting stitches. I also have a G. Ponzoni with them.

No problem. :)

Here's a couple examples of American 1930's hats with the stitches still left in:


1930's Mallory with Basting stitches

green5.jpg
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Some liner-less hats were orginally unlined, some had the liner removed (due to heavy stains, for instance). More often than not, original unlined hats have a tip liner (tip sticker) or an imprint at the crown roof. Some have ventilation holes, too.
A liner-less hat without any logos and with an unpounced inside of the crown felt is usually (but not always) a hat that's missing the liner.

Some Bowlers (Derby, Melone) had removable liners. Here is a very early 1900s JHS Melone with both a tip label and removable liner.

4507526119_12bfb9f470_b.jpg


4508165254_86e83ff611_b.jpg


4507526369_b616bef847_b.jpg
 
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Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
I don't really know if there's an answer for that one. I'm unsure if the Europeans just used basting stitches for longer and therefore there are more hats out there or if Europeans found a usefulness in keeping them in. I've never read anything that would supply info one way or the other. I do know that Europeans used different practices in hatting during different times in history than the Americans. Un-reeded sweatbands were very popular in the 1930's America and then by the early 40's they were not really being used anymore for the most part. In Europe, Borsalino used un-reeded sweatbands for years after the 1930's on many of their lightweight hats and seem to have a better track record for sweatbands actually staying in their hats verses the American companies.

I was told by a German hatter friend that they should be removed. I guess some hat shops / customers just didn't remove them. Mayser still uses them today. Modern Mayser City Finale.

4330067881_fc6c58759e_b.jpg
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Foster Brothers The Zephyr Bowler UK lightweight unlined

A lightweight early English Bowler with moderately flexible construction. Straight block shape and surprisingly thin construction of the bound edge.
A wonderful hat and a perfect fit.Thank you so much, Steve!

Nik, Good to see it arrived safely! That is a great wearing (very light weight plus comfortable sweat) Bowler. Super photos as usual!
 

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