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Chepstow

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,406
Location
Germany/ Remscheid
Scotts upbrim fedora with overwelt, light pearl (1940s)

A soft hat in the style of the upbrim fedoras of the 1920s. This Scotts apparently originates from the 1940s. The original owner bought it in the U.S. after 1945 - that was the year he moved from Europe to the States.
The actual production date of the hat may or may not be earlier than post-WWII. I have one more Scotts hat, a Homburg with the production date stamp Dec 9th 1941 on the liner that was actually sold in 1948 according to the original Scotts shipping box with a date stamp on it. In other words, stock from before or during WWII may have been left over.

The felt is wonderfully soft and holds dry creases anywhere. It's so soft in fact that I had a hard time finding a position on the old rusty spike without the crown bulging out at the rear part of the center crease.

The ribbon features basting stitches.

The color is called light pearl, a light cool grey.

A big thank you to David for forwarding the hat to me.

P1090091_zps135f8a9c.jpg

Nick, splendid Hat and a fantastic find. Congratulation!
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Nik, Super find! Beautiful detail work!

Here's a late 30s J. Hückel´s Söhne with Homburg like curl and no binding. Probably not called a Homburg or a Lords Hat by JHS.

4017227608_eea8055c67_b.jpg


4017228018_fc951e0bea_b.jpg
 
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delectans

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,335
Location
Minnesota
Good discussion, and interesting perspective and illustrative examples, Josh, Nik, Brad and Steve. At the risk of carrying this discussion further off topic and incurring the wrath of our esteemed moderators, I would like to suggest that the names which are commonly used to refer to hat styles often reflect celebrity association or contemporary fashion or interpretation, and not a formally defined or prescribed design. All of the above hats are representations of a continuum of soft hat style that pre-date Edward VII's visit to Bad Homburg.
 
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seabass

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,161
Location
nor cal
Great upturn hats to all, Boy do i need one of those !
New Hat Here & nothing in comparison to the beautiful hat's just posted prior .I picked this up in Carmel Ca , Is this a Lord's, Upbrim Type ?
the felt is heavy dress & well you allknow i like brim snapped up but this is not a snapbrim
Made in England,Brooks Brothers
232323232%7Ffp635%3A%3B%3Enu%3D8986%3E396%3E25%3A%3EWSNRCG%3D3575%3B83%3A4234%3Bnu0mrj
232323232%7Ffp6356%3B%3Enu%3D8986%3E396%3E25%3A%3EWSNRCG%3D3575%3B83%3A6%3B34%3Bnu0mrj

thick raw edge, 2 1/2''brim crown 5''creased 5 1/8''open
232323232%7Ffp6359%3A%3Enu%3D8986%3E396%3E25%3A%3EWSNRCG%3D3575%3B83%3A4734%3Bnu0mrj
The Brim is not as straight up as the previous hats but this a raw edge thick too sorta has a even upturn. this is the same state as found.
232323232%7Ffp63595%3Enu%3D8986%3E396%3E25%3A%3EWSNRCG%3D3575%3B83%3A5334%3Bnu0mrj
232323232%7Ffp63634%3Enu%3D8986%3E396%3E25%3A%3EWSNRCG%3D3575%3B83%3A5234%3Bnu0mrj

I can snap it down but sorta hard & looks well not hmmmmmm
232323232%7Ffp734%3A9%3Enu%3D8986%3E396%3E25%3A%3EWSNRCG%3D3575%3B83%3A5634%3Bnu0mrj

232323232%7Ffp63557%3Enu%3D8986%3E396%3E25%3A%3EWSNRCG%3D3575%3B83%3A6234%3Bnu0mrj
232323232%7Ffp63573%3Enu%3D8986%3E396%3E25%3A%3EWSNRCG%3D3575%3B83%3A6834%3Bnu0mrj

I have about 3 England Made for Brooks Brothers & the others are featherweight & shape like butter this one is sorta stiff.
 
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H.Herdick

Familiar Face
Messages
80
Location
Netherlands
On friday last week my Montecristi arrived. Ordered in Spring (it took a long time to get it) by Panamabob and blocked by Art Fawcett.

This is such a nice fitting jewel. Unbelievable. Art is an artist on hats. And although it took a long time to get the hat, Panamabob did really a nice work. Yes, on beautiful craftsmanship you have to waite sometimes a long time. But it was worth to wait. I´m in love with this hat.

The bad thing is, it is now raining in Holland.

11899190ov.jpg


11899191qa.jpg


11899392pd.jpg



11899193rr.jpg
 
Messages
15,072
Location
Buffalo, NY
Congratulations H.Herdick. The hat has a lovely quality to it.

Che, I had a BB hat of a similar vintage and with similar qualities. So nicely put together with a design that recalled an older era of hats... but the felt was heavy and stiff.
 

Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
The earliest advertising references in the United States to a Lord's Hat date only to the late-1930s.

No depictions in any of the ads, but this description of a Lord's Hat comes from an article on current hat trends in the Youngstown Vindicator, October 9, 1938.

"The Lord's hat, which is comparatively new and last season achieved great popularity in the larger metropolitan areas, is black, worn with the crown pinched and the raw edge brim turned up."

A 1939 ad touts Dunlap's "famous Lord's hat."

Sounds pretty loosely defined.

Brad

Thank you for the references, Brad. In addition to this, I found the information that the Lord's hat was invented by the hat industry as a casual alternative to the Homburg; by that time, the term was congruent with the Homburg as we know it today. The up-brim fedoras, originating from the time of maximum variety in hats - the late 1910s and 1920s - might have been simply called fedoras for all we know; as Josh pointed out, they used to be an extremely popular style of fedora at the time.

Nik, Super find! Beautiful detail work!

Here's a late 30s J. Hückel´s Söhne with Homburg like curl and no binding. Probably not called a Homburg or a Lords Hat by JHS.

4017227608_eea8055c67_b.jpg

Lovely hat, Steve! Sure looks like an up-brim style to me.

Good discussion, and interesting perspective and illustrative examples, Josh, Nik, Brad and Steve. At the risk of carrying this discussion further off topic and incurring the wrath of our esteemed moderators, I would like to suggest that the names which are commonly used to refer to hat styles often reflect celebrity association or contemporary fashion or interpretation, and not a formally defined or prescribed design. All of the above hats are representations of a continuum of soft hat style that pre-date Edward VII's visit to Bad Homburg.

I think it's comparatively safe to say that the Lord's hat is more of an offshoot of the Homburg as we know it today while the up-brim fedoras were one soft hat style out of many in the 1920s - featuring any brim edge treatment but the bound brim.

Great upturn hats to all, Boy do i need one of those !
New Hat Here & nothing in comparison to the beautiful hat's just posted prior .I picked this up in Carmel Ca , Is this a Lord's, Upbrim Type ?
the felt is heavy dress & well you allknow i like brim snapped up but this is not a snapbrim
Made in England,Brooks Brothers
232323232%7Ffp635%3A%3B%3Enu%3D8986%3E396%3E25%3A%3EWSNRCG%3D3575%3B83%3A4234%3Bnu0mrj

I can snap it down but sorta hard & looks well not hmmmmmm
I have about 3 England Made for Brooks Brothers & the others are featherweight & shape like butter this one is sorta stiff.

Looks like an upbrim fedora to me, Che. You may want to check the threads I linked to earlier today, they're full of a wide variety of early fedora styles for comparison.
 
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Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
Funny. I bought this one and here it is on the Lounge and I haven't even received it yet.

Kaos, congratulations on your ebay find. :)
I was very tempted to bid on this one but decided to let it go. Lord's hats in gray (or any Lord's hat, for that matter) don't come up too often, and this one is in mint condition to boot.


Borsalino 1950s Homburg Gulaela - Stirina c. nero European market Qualità Extra Superiore

Basted stitchings on the ribbon, taped rear seam, reeded sweat with popped stitchings of leather to reed. More in the Brotherhood.

BorsalinoHomburgGulaela-StirinacneroQualitExtraSuperiore_zpsef55e22d.jpg
 
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Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
Nik,

What exactly is a basted stitch? I can't really tell in the pictures.

Beautiful hats.

Basted stitchings on the ribbon:

There's a black thread going along the top border of the grosgrain ribbon. There are only a few stitches all around; the thread is mostly loose, atop the ribbon.
This feature is mostly associated with hats from the 1930s; it's not commonly seen on hats from later decades.

P1090157_zps92dec5eb.jpg
 

Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
It's also mostly associated with vintage European-made hats. Very uncommon on American-made hats, for some reason.

That's good information. I haven't seen it on U.S. brands yet, only European brands, both on hats made for the European market and on European hats made for the U.S. market.
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
That's good information. I haven't seen it on U.S. brands yet, only European brands, both on hats made for the European market and on European hats made for the U.S. market.

Even though the Europeans used this stitching technique for a longer time, the basting stitches were VERY common on American made hats in the 30's. The reason that you do not see too many hats from that era with them is because they were never meant to be left in. The point of the basting stitch was for shipping hats and stacking them in retail stores. It keeps the ribbon from folding down and over. Most retailers and customers removed them. The hats that seem to still keep them in are the very well preserved hats that most likely weren't worn very much or not at all.
 

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