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Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
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2,561
Location
Germany
Scotts upbrim fedora Part II

Scotts logo with the U.S. patent:

P1090106_zpsc8eebc62.jpg


P1090100_zps2ab3b5bc.jpg


Taped rear seam:

P1090103_zpsd4d9e429.jpg


Welted edge. You can also see the basting stitches on the ribbon:

P1090132_zpsa17ae5f1.jpg


P1090135_zps3116a6f2.jpg


P1090121_zps2595516f.jpg


Ad from 1928 showing (in the middle) a Dobbs with cav edge in a similar style:

1928_rough-finishes.jpg
 
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Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
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2,561
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Germany
Thank you all, Gentlemen. The sizing information provided made this buy quite a gamble, and surprisingly enough it does not only fit but it fits perfectly. Aside from the fit, it's definitely one of the most interesting hats I've handled.

By the way, you can find lots of interesting hat ads in these threads:

Hat Advertisements of 1928

A Decade of Schoble Hats 1912-1922

The ad I posted is from the Lounge as well, I can't recall which thread, though.
 
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Rabbit

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2,561
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Germany
Actually, I'm not sure about the terminology. From what I've found, a Lord's hat has a more exaggerated brim curl and a raw brim. The Scotts looks more like the upbrim fedoras of the 20s of which there were many variations - some had raw brims, some welted, some cav edges.

Alan's Stetson 7X CB Mode Edge comes to mind as another example of a hat in this style from a later vintage than 1920s, and then I also found a 1920s upbrim fedora from Robert.

Alan's Stetson 7X CB Mode Edge:

Stetson7XModeEdgeHomburg-Kopie_zpsfcfcc961.jpg


Stetson7XModeEdgeHomburg_zps5db0226c.jpg


Stetson7XModeEdgeHomburg2_zps5547687d.jpg


030612_zps953f7e43.jpg


Robert's Lion hats upbrim fedora with overwelt:

1920LionHats_zps87be4ad2.jpg


5063188286_bc804e91c8_z_zps80d82fe4.jpg


5063186140_fca153f400_z_zps46ebd453.jpg


5060779088_0a0e4d8280_b_zps6d3d06c2.jpg


5060172065_e608072e41_z_zps4dd0cf48.jpg


5060169587_4e8efa220f_z_zps5b6e425e.jpg
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
That's so funny... just catching your new hat and was about to share a link to these photos of the 7X Intrigue. It is also a 1940s hat.

I love your latest find!
 

delectans

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Messages
2,335
Location
Minnesota
Actually, I'm not sure about the terminology. From what I've found, a Lord's hat has a more exaggerated brim curl and a raw brim. The Scotts looks more like the upbrim fedoras of the 20s of which there were many variations - some had raw brims, some welted, some cav edges.

The Lord's Hat is a loosely defined term, at best, referring to an "unbound" brim hat with Homburg lines, most consistently worn with side pinches, and meant to convey a more informal appearance than a proper Homburg. I am not certain that the degree of curl is necessarily a defining characteristic, but no doubt this is a matter of semantics and open to debate.
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
Actually, I'm not sure about the terminology. From what I've found, a Lord's hat has a more exaggerated brim curl and a raw brim. The Scotts looks more like the upbrim fedoras of the 20s of which there were many variations - some had raw brims, some welted, some cav edges.

First off, I wanted to congradulate you on an absolutely outstanding hat!! Your right about the lords hat. Sometimes its very hard to tell the difference between a lords hat and an early upbrim fedora. I now own that teens/20's Stetson and the brim is curled right after the welt stitching which is about a 1/4 inch curl. Its a neat effect because it kind of hides the welt inside the curl, but the felt isn't curled over, its literally almost a 90 degree angle.

DSC06449.jpg


This was a VERY common brim treatment before the snap brim really took off in popularity. There has always been down brims, and the early forms of snap brims, but the up-brim was king at one time. The style was either worn as a flatter up-brim or pulled down front and back.

My 1916 Stetson Pacemaker was sold on ebay as a Homburg, but its neither a homburg nor is it a lords hat. Its a fedora with an upbrim and 1/4 inch curl. Its meant to be worn with the front and back pulled down.

DSC05098.jpg


The curl is almost straight up verses being curled over:

DSC05099.jpg


and is meant to be worn like so:

1916StetsonPacemaker.jpg


Stetson1916springsummercatalog7.jpg


However a lord's hat is something a little different. Its a hat that's very similar to a upbrimmed fedora, however its more of a homburg than a fedora. A lords hat is essentially a homburg without the brim binding. Its a bit less formal than a homburg, but a bit more formal than a fedora.

Here's a 1930's Emerson Lords Hat

The curl is a bit more promounced but I believe the major factor is that the curl folds over itself slightly verses being at almost 90 degrees straight up

DSC05728.jpg


DSC05731.jpg
 

Rabbit

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2,561
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Germany
I quite agree, Al. Perhaps Robert would have some more information on the matter? It would be interesting to learn if there is any historical consistency to the terms used in our discussion.

Edit: Thank you so much for the info and pics, Josh. It's consistent with my findings; the Scott has a ninety-degree-curl that effectively hides the welt just as on the early upbrim fedoras. The very few lord's hats I've ever seen had a Homburg-ish curl in the terminology of Homburgs as we know them today.
 
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Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
Here are the auction pics of a Cavanagh Lord's hat from the late 50s or 60s that was sold on ebay recently (not mine):

T2eC16ZHJIIE9qTYLS8qBQT82NZBGw60_57_zpsc63e7b5e.jpg


T2eC16VHJIIE9qTYKKOBQT869Uosg60_57_zpsea70bdab.jpg


T2eC16RHJIYE9qUcOQgDBQT87mB-w60_57_zps6873533c.jpg


T2eC16NHJG8E9nyfmZEEBQT81c4Unw60_57_zpsebb6a628.jpg


T2eC16JHJGkE9no8gJcpBQT88T-Q60_57_zps2aada885.jpg


T2eC16FHJHgE9n0yDkCHBQT85oElqQ60_57_zps04933fb9.jpg


T2eC16RHJGYE9nooh8IoBQT829smsQ60_57_zps56a344ac.jpg
 

Short Balding Guy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,871
Location
Minnesota, USA
Rabbit that hat is a Holy Grail for sure.

Nik; +1. That is truly a spectacular hat. Just the felt alone puts into the "special" catagory. The exquisite details and craftsmanship make it the "top shelf" of hats I have seen. Excellent example of the time, effort and hand work that was taken with pride many decades ago. The exterior is very attractive, but when you flip the hat over the interior and detail quality are aboundant. A hat show stopper, IMO.

Wear it with pride sir. Eric -
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
The earliest advertising references in the United States to a Lord's Hat date only to the late-1930s.

No depictions in any of the ads, but this description of a Lord's Hat comes from an article on current hat trends in the Youngstown Vindicator, October 9, 1938.

"The Lord's hat, which is comparatively new and last season achieved great popularity in the larger metropolitan areas, is black, worn with the crown pinched and the raw edge brim turned up."

A 1939 ad touts Dunlap's "famous Lord's hat."

Sounds pretty loosely defined.

Brad
 
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