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Italian brands hats

Messages
18,443
Location
Nederland
And here is the second one.

Cambiaghi woolfelt or mixed felt in brown with a backbow. Really like the ribbon colour on this one. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The brim has a raw edge, but has an extra groove line that I have never seen before on another hat. Even though this is lower at the center dent this hat seems to have a really towering tall crown. If I'm wearing it it looks like I'm wearing the hat @BobHufford found recently. Can't explain why that should be the case, but there it is. I mean look at that thing!

IMG_4041.jpg


Now it would be really interesting to find out when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix prizes exactly, because this has "5 Grands Prix" on the sweatband, so in between this one and the previous one they won two more prizes. It would help date the hat. Both are certainly pre-war and this is definitely the older one.

cambiaghi backbow_1.jpg
cambiaghi backbow_2.jpg
cambiaghi backbow_3.jpg
cambiaghi backbow_4.jpg
cambiaghi backbow_5.jpg
cambiaghi backbow_6.jpg
cambiaghi backbow_7.jpg
cambiaghi backbow_8.jpg
cambiaghi backbow_9.jpg
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,246
Location
Verona - Italia
The two Cambiaghi hats from the Severino hat shop arrived this week. Interesting to say the least. Let's start off with the grey one.

Cambiaghi in grey mixed woolfelt. A substantial hat, both in proportions, with the overwelt brim at 6cm and the crown at an imposing 11,5 cm at the center dent, but also in weight, because it clocks in at 155 grams. The felt has suffered somewhat from having had a hat (or multiple hats) stacked on top of it for probably decades. Looks like mothing, but it's too even for that. Doesn't detract much from the hat and isn't all that noticeable in real life. Notice the "7 grands prix" on the sweatband.

cambiaghi grey_1.jpg

And here is the second one.

Cambiaghi woolfelt or mixed felt in brown with a backbow. Really like the ribbon colour on this one. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The brim has a raw edge, but has an extra groove line that I have never seen before on another hat. Even though this is lower at the center dent this hat seems to have a really towering tall crown. If I'm wearing it it looks like I'm wearing the hat @BobHufford found recently. Can't explain why that should be the case, but there it is. I mean look at that thing!

IMG_4041.jpg
First of all, Stefan, it surprises me how emerged these Italian hats as all in one fell swoop, after years that the production of Giuseppe Cambiaghi - Monza had been forgotten. Another factor is that they are very old and almost always (90%) new hats from stock. Very interesting is that they bring to light for fans of Italian hattery the Monza production which was probably the most numerous and exported to every corner of the world. Going into the details both the Cambiaghi are splendid and denote, personal opinion, their age from the numbers of the Grand Prix won. The fewer they are, the older they are. Perhaps by investigating the linings, a hypothetical historical outline could be drawn up. Dear Stefan, they are both gorgeous! No more, no less!
 
Messages
18,443
Location
Nederland
First of all, Stefan, it surprises me how emerged these Italian hats as all in one fell swoop, after years that the production of Giuseppe Cambiaghi - Monza had been forgotten. Another factor is that they are very old and almost always (90%) new hats from stock. Very interesting is that they bring to light for fans of Italian hattery the Monza production which was probably the most numerous and exported to every corner of the world. Going into the details both the Cambiaghi are splendid and denote, personal opinion, their age from the numbers of the Grand Prix won. The fewer they are, the older they are. Perhaps by investigating the linings, a hypothetical historical outline could be drawn up. Dear Stefan, they are both gorgeous! No more, no less!
Thank you, Daniele. It is true Cambiaghi doesn't get the recognition it likely deserves. It has probably to do with the fact that their strength was in woolfelt hats and far less of those have survived. The age question didn't leave me alone, so I did some sleuthing. Since they prominently display it on their sweatbands, the Grands Prix were very important for the company, which led me to believe they would have used it for advertising. And they did:

cambiaghi grands prix_resize.jpg


Here we can see the prizes they won and in what year. Nine of them in total, which makes me wonder why their website (they are now based in Milan as a brand) states they've won eight Grand Prix.
Anyway: the number of five prizes was achieved in 1915 and another one was added in 1930, which puts the backbow hat in between those years, so most likely in the twenties.
The grey one with the seven Grands Prix puts it firmly in the early thirties.

Founder Giuseppe Cambiaghi apparently once had a statue erected in his honour, but I can't find a modern picture of it.
Giuseppe-Cambiaghi-1851-1925.jpg
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,857
Location
Denmark
Thank you, Daniele. It is true Cambiaghi doesn't get the recognition it likely deserves. It has probably to do with the fact that their strength was in woolfelt hats and far less of those have survived. The age question didn't leave me alone, so I did some sleuthing. Since they prominently display it on their sweatbands, the Grands Prix were very important for the company, which led me to believe they would have used it for advertising. And they did:

View attachment 407448

Here we can see the prizes they won and in what year. Nine of them in total, which makes me wonder why their website (they are now based in Milan as a brand) states they've won eight Grand Prix.
Anyway: the number of five prizes was achieved in 1915 and another one was added in 1930, which puts the backbow hat in between those years, so most likely in the twenties.
The grey one with the seven Grands Prix puts it firmly in the early thirties.

Founder Giuseppe Cambiaghi apparently once had a statue erected in his honour, but I can't find a modern picture of it.
View attachment 407450
Some great detective work, Stefan. Nice to know the dates of the 9 Grands Prix.
 
Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
The two Cambiaghi hats from the Severino hat shop arrived this week. Interesting to say the least. Let's start off with the grey one.

Cambiaghi in grey mixed woolfelt. A substantial hat, both in proportions, with the overwelt brim at 6cm and the crown at an imposing 11,5 cm at the center dent, but also in weight, because it clocks in at 155 grams. The felt has suffered somewhat from having had a hat (or multiple hats) stacked on top of it for probably decades. Looks like mothing, but it's too even for that. Doesn't detract much from the hat and isn't all that noticeable in real life. Notice the "7 grands prix" on the sweatband.

View attachment 407271 View attachment 407272 View attachment 407273 View attachment 407274 View attachment 407275 View attachment 407276 View attachment 407277 View attachment 407278 View attachment 407279
Stefan, Super finds! They are both really fantastic and in excellent condition. Always enjoy seeing the old Wool or Blend Soft and Stiff Felt Hats.
 
Messages
18,443
Location
Nederland
Some great detective work, Stefan. Nice to know the dates of the 9 Grands Prix.
Thanks, Steve. I'll freely admit I was quite pleased with myself:)

Stefan, Super finds! They are both really fantastic and in excellent condition. Always enjoy seeing the old Wool or Blend Soft and Stiff Felt Hats.
Thank you, Steve. Very happy to have found these woolfelt survivors and in another colour than black as well.
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,246
Location
Verona - Italia
I have a good number of "Bantam" produced by the Cappellificio Cervo in my collection and every time I find one I think if I can put it in the list of those present.
Polinesia_2[1].jpg

It is undoubted that this brand includes the most imaginative hats in the colors of the felt and in the finishes, as well as in the trimmings.
Polinesia_4[1].jpg
I think in the sixties or seventies a milliner or more arrived in order to revive the fortunes of the hat factory, subverted the patterns of production.
Polinesia_interno[1].jpg
Super Bantam, Cappellificio Cervo size 60 or 7 1/2 in the US.
Polinesia_5[1].jpg
The color of the felt, a brown heather with all the colors of the warm range inside and the hatband with the same more evident colors, then taken up in the hemming of the brim, makes this hat a rarity, at least for me.
Polinesia_etichetta_carta[1].jpg
The color of the felt is called "Polinesia".
The hat can be formed in two shapes, as you can see in the photos.
Polinesia_aperto[1].jpg


It can be an imaginative trilby or an even more imaginative "Lord hat".
Polinesia_7[1].jpg


The measurements are as follows: the brims hemmed with the same material as the hat band measure 5 cm. the open crown is 13.5cm and the ribbon is 3cm high.
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,246
Location
Verona - Italia
The "Bantam" brand is known in Italy because it is inextricably linked to the hats of the Alpine troops,
Cappello alpino.jpg
in civil use it has taken on the role of an experiment in Sagliano Micca.
Roccia_1_modificato-1[1].jpg


All the specimens that I have have 90% a particular felt in the colors and in the finish, this too has its undoubted peculiarities.
Roccia_interno[1].jpg
Bantam Hat, American Type, Oklahoma, Cappellificio Cervo size 60 or 7 1/2 in the US.
Roccia_5[1].jpg
The color of the felt, a light gray with all the colors of the light range inside and the hatband of the same material with drawings and small inlays.
Roccia_etichetta_carta[1].jpg
The color of the felt is called "Roccia - Rock".
Roccia_3[1].jpg
The hat has felt very similar to the mixed felts used by Italian hats over the years, although it is not marked to that effect.
Roccia_7[1].jpg


The measurements are as follows: the over-sewn brims measure 5.5 cm. the open crown is 14.5cm and the ribbon is 4cm high.
I hope to be lucky and to find more because Bantams are always a pleasant surprise
 
Messages
18,443
Location
Nederland
The "Bantam" brand is known in Italy because it is inextricably linked to the hats of the Alpine troops,
Cappello alpino.jpg
in civil use it has taken on the role of an experiment in Sagliano Micca.
Roccia_1_modificato-1[1].jpg


All the specimens that I have have 90% a particular felt in the colors and in the finish, this too has its undoubted peculiarities.
Roccia_interno[1].jpg
Bantam Hat, American Type, Oklahoma, Cappellificio Cervo size 60 or 7 1/2 in the US.
Roccia_5[1].jpg
The color of the felt, a light gray with all the colors of the light range inside and the hatband of the same material with drawings and small inlays.
Roccia_etichetta_carta[1].jpg
The color of the felt is called "Roccia - Rock".
Roccia_3[1].jpg
The hat has felt very similar to the mixed felts used by Italian hats over the years, although it is not marked to that effect.
Roccia_7[1].jpg


The measurements are as follows: the over-sewn brims measure 5.5 cm. the open crown is 14.5cm and the ribbon is 4cm high.
I hope to be lucky and to find more because Bantams are always a pleasant surprise
Very interesting finds, Daniele. I especially like the second one as it's more subtle in its styling.
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,246
Location
Verona - Italia
Very interesting finds, Daniele. I especially like the second one as it's more subtle in its styling.
I agree with you Stefan on the subtle qualities of the "Oklahoma" Bantam, but the one in the "Polynesia" color is one of the most daring Italian hats of the period when Italian hattery were on the road to decline. Many "Bantams" seem to have "The Fantasy in Power".
This said in a very traditional environment such as the Italian hat production of fifty years ago.
 
Messages
18,443
Location
Nederland
While Daniele got the large sized ones, I got another example in a smaller size.
Super Bantam Cervo Loden misto Dancalia (now there's a mouthful) fedora. Size 57 with the raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the center dent at 10,5cm. Unlined and NOS. The ribbon is made of a thinned version of the same felt and they made a traditional bow out of it too, which is not something you usually see with these felted ribbons. Weighs 107 grams. Some very nice finishing and attention to detail on this one, like the corded sweatband bow and the hanging loop.

cervo loden_01.jpg

cervo loden_02.jpg

cervo loden_03.jpg

cervo loden_04.jpg

cervo loden_06.jpg

cervo loden_07.jpg

cervo loden_09.jpg

cervo loden_10.jpg

cervo loden_11.jpg

cervo loden_12.jpg
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,860
Location
Central Texas
Now that is a very special hat, Stefan.

The two Cambiaghi hats from the Severino hat shop arrived this week. Interesting to say the least. Let's start off with the grey one.

Cambiaghi in grey mixed woolfelt. A substantial hat, both in proportions, with the overwelt brim at 6cm and the crown at an imposing 11,5 cm at the center dent, but also in weight, because it clocks in at 155 grams. The felt has suffered somewhat from having had a hat (or multiple hats) stacked on top of it for probably decades. Looks like mothing, but it's too even for that. Doesn't detract much from the hat and isn't all that noticeable in real life. Notice the "7 grands prix" on the sweatband.

View attachment 407271 View attachment 407272 View attachment 407273 View attachment 407274 View attachment 407275 View attachment 407276 View attachment 407277 View attachment 407278 View attachment 407279
 
Messages
18,443
Location
Nederland
Panizza Super Castorino short haired velour in the colour Dattero ( a deep brown). Size 56 (according to the label, but it's bigger than that, certainly a 57) with the overwelt brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The felt is fabulous on this one and it has two vents on each side. I think the "castorino" refers to the finish and not the felt. Weighs just 110 grams, which is lightweight for a velour.
panizza dattero_01.jpg

panizza dattero_02.jpg

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panizza dattero_07.jpg

panizza dattero_08.jpg

panizza dattero_10.jpg

panizza dattero_11.jpg

panizza dattero_12.jpg
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,246
Location
Verona - Italia
In my rarefied presence on FL I have a few hats to show you
Guerra Interno totale_modificato-1.jpg
Guerra 1855 is one of the less present brands on the vintage Italian hat market.
Guerra Indiana 2 bis_modificato-1.jpg
Active until today, the company had until a few years ago a website on which to see the production, now it seems to have vanished.
Guerra Indiana 3_modificato-1.jpg
I have a few hats from this brand in my collection so having found one I bought it out of pure curiosity because I really don't need another hat in brown.
1855 Guerra Indiana, from the indications of the internal label, it measures 59 cm. it is equivalent to saying a 7 3/8 in the US.
Guerra Indiana etichetta.jpg
The hat is carefully constructed on the wave of Indiana Jones fashion with Italian rendering
Guerra Indiana 6_modificato-1.jpg
These are the measures of the hat: brim at 6.5 centimeters; height of the open crown 13 cm. and the ribbon is 4cm.
Guerra Indiana 4_modificato-1.jpg
The felt is of medium weight and very malleable, the color is a classic of Italian hats and a brown called "Dattero" by Borsalino.
Guerra Indiana 7_modificato-1.jpg


The weight is exactly 100 grams. It arrives in excellent condition, it appears to have been used very little.
 
Messages
18,443
Location
Nederland
Barbisio fedora in grey. Size 62 with a brim width of 6,5cm and a crown of 11,5cm at the front. A narrow and nicely done overwelt brim edge. No label other than its size label. Colour could be any number of Barbisio greys: Tanaro, Sesia, Ticino, Ginevra? All of these are pretty close in tone. Some taper to the crown. It has already been spoken for.

barbisio62_01.jpg

barbisio62_02.jpg

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barbisio62_07.jpg

barbisio62_08.jpg

barbisio62_09.jpg

barbisio62_10.jpg
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,246
Location
Verona - Italia
Can anyone help me out with this hat. What is it and do they make decent hats? There is a cheap look to the liner and sweatband, but it could also be the photography. Thanks!

68DB4EA7-F3B3-4B3C-B8FB-42BA31DBBBFB.jpeg
Brent, the interior looks a lot like some rare medium quality Italian hats made in the 1930s. I have a similar one branded "Argo" from the Albertini - Intra hat factory.
From the lettering and colors it would look very similar. If you have any photos of the hat it might help.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Brent, the interior looks a lot like some rare medium quality Italian hats made in the 1930s. I have a similar one branded "Argo" from the Albertini - Intra hat factory.
From the lettering and colors it would look very similar. If you have any photos of the hat it might help.

I’m hoping it’s decent because I went ahead and bought it. ;)

248C2ADB-0DFD-457C-9F6E-2C1A8F9A0EA9.jpeg
1CAC85C1-AFF3-4201-9F6A-A3F0BF2B0638.jpeg
 

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