German & Austrian Hutmachers

[steur]

What a beautiful finish! Interesting brand.

Very nice looking felt. The old style typewriter script on the mfg. label might be a clue in itself.

Mike, thank you. Had to bring the Atlantis along because underneath the piles of dust it looked to be in excellent shape for a hat of that age (and it is). The Habig is a perfect fit, a lovely felt and a great shape, so even though I don't need another black hat, it had to come. Have to start wearing them more often! I think the 1966 date is accurate because a few of my other Habig hats have the same annotation of the year.

 

[steur]

Posted this one in the new hats thread as well. Resistol made under license in Germany, so it belongs here too. I knew about Stetson (England and Germany), Penn Craft (England) and Dobbs (Italy) being made under license, but I've never seen a Resistol hat that was made under license. Resistols are a rare find over here anyway, so it had to come. Resistol Majestic fedora in fenway colour. Size 58 in kitten finish, overwelt edge with double stitching at 5,8cm and crown 11,5 cm at the pinch (tall crown!). Lovely pliable felt with a nice hand. Liner still stitched in, so I'm guessing mid to late fifties. Don't know who held the license.

 

[Chepstow]

Posted this one in the new hats thread as well. Resistol made under license in Germany, so it belongs here too. I knew about Stetson (England and Germany), Penn Craft (England) and Dobbs (Italy) being made under license, but I've never seen a Resistol hat that was made under license. Resistols are a rare find over here anyway, so it had to come. Resistol Majestic fedora in fenway colour. Size 58 in kitten finish, overwelt edge with double stitching at 5,8cm and crown 11,5 cm at the pinch (tall crown!). Lovely pliable felt with a nice hand. Liner still stitched in, so I'm guessing mid to late fifties. Don't know who held the

Nice Hat Stefan. Mayser or Wegener made it under license. In Germany you will find often a Resistol.




Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk Pro

 

[steur]

Nice Hat Stefan. Mayser or Wegener made it under license. In Germany you will find often a Resistol.




Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk Pro

Manfred, thanks. I suspected it might be one of the major manufacturers, but wasn't sure. Strange that so few of them made it over here , whereas Mayser and Wegener hats are pretty much everywhere.

 

[mayserwegener]

As I mentioned in the other thread R. & M. Wegener had the Resistol license for Germany.

"Klaus Theodor Wegener was responsible for initiating the extraordinary relationships to several hat companies in the United States and after working in Dallas/Texas at Resistol, R&M Wegener was granted the licence to produce Resistol hats in Germany from 1958 onwards. "

 

[deadlyhandsome]

This was a shot in the dark. The seller didn’t know the size but the measurements looked like it could be a possibility. It’s a lovely soft green velour. It needs a good cleaning (my photos are straight from the shipping box) but I don’t see any damage and the sweat is soft and supple. Hoping someone ( @mayserwegener ) can help me out with what it is.
Thanks, Brent

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mayserwegener]

Brent, Great find! The Velour looks fantastic. My guess would be early to mid 1960s. F.G.M. is Franz Gober München (founded 1902). I don't think they made hats but instead sourced high quality hats. I believe they eventually specialized in Trachten styles. This Trachten style hat is called a Miesbacher. You can see more about F.G.M. here.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/57-franz-gober-münchen-f-g-m/

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Brent, Great find! The Velour looks fantastic. My guess would be early to mid 1960s. F.G.M. is Franz Gober München (founded 1902). I don't think they made hats but instead sourced high quality hats. I believe they eventually specialized in Trachten styles. This Trachten style hat is called a Miesbacher. You can see more about F.G.M. here.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/57-franz-gober-münchen-f-g-m/

Thanks for the information Steve. I knew you would know chapter and verse. I’m not sure about the style and it’s a bit small but I think I’ll keep just as a reference hat even if I can size it up enough to wear. The velour is addictive.
Brent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mayserwegener]

Brent, Sorry about the size. The Velour looks soft so you might be able to stretch it a bit (assuming the sweatband will cooperate). Looks like it was marked 60cm. You will not find a Trachten Velour hat of this quality today.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Brent, Sorry about the size. The Velour looks soft so you might be able to stretch it a bit (assuming the sweatband will cooperate). Looks like it was marked 60cm. You will not find a Trachten Velour hat of this quality today.

I’ll try to gently stretch it a bit, but if doesn’t want to cooperate I’ll follow Lefty’s advice and just wear it a little further back on my head. I remember you stating that the pre-war velour was in a whole different league. I need to get my hands on one of those because this 1960s velour is great.

Thanks again for sharing your wealth of knowledge.

Brent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[yttclothing]

Had these come in yesterday as part of my European delivery
First this Kronenhut Rival Homburg

This Melton hat (a UK hat made under license in Germany) I've seen the S with a hat on before but I can't remember which company it was

Then these are two Cervo Italian hats but made for the German Market, The black is dated 54 retailed by Max Seebrecht Kassel, the grey is a featherweight in a rare big size 61 ! (unusually it fits true to size unlike most Italian hats , it was retailed by Breiter in Munich

 

[M Hatman]

Is this German? A Lembert Standard. Surprisingly it has a really nice hand to the felt, seems like a wool/fur blend (or the wool has a lot of lanolin in it). Unlined, there is glue residue in the crown which makes me believe it hat a tip label. Came just as you see it adorned and in a really rich forest green.
Blocking tags are absent as is the size tag. I am thinking 70's or 80's with this one?
Anything you can tell me will be useful...
And, YES, the plume socket came on the left???
M
PS The foil stamping is poor quality and very hard to photograph .......

 

[mayserwegener]

Paddy, Good to see you! Thank you posting your latest finds.

I have no idea who made the Kronenhut. I can't place the paper label.

The paper label in the Melton Hat is for whole-seller Valentin Schick so probably sourced (see photo below). I don't believe they made hats.

The German market Cervo Hats are fantastic. It's great that one is size 61cm.

 

[mayserwegener]

Is this German? A Lembert Standard. Surprisingly it has a really nice hand to the felt, seems like a wool/fur blend. Unlined, there is glue residue in the crown which makes me believe it hat a tip label. Came just as you see it adorned and in a really rich forest green.
Blocking tags are absent as is the size tag. I am thinking 70's or 80's with this one?
Anything you can tell me will be useful...
And, YES, the plume socket came on the left???
M
PS The foil stamping is poor quality and very hard to photograph .......
View attachment 117327 View attachment 117328 View attachment 117329 View attachment 117330 View attachment 117331

K. & R. Lembert Hat Factory is in Augsburg, Germany and they are still in business.

http://www.hutfabrik-lembert.de/

At one time they had produced both Wool and Fur Felt (specifically Velour). I believe that operation closed in the 1970s.

I visited the factory back in 2011 with Dieter (Dreispitz). You can see more here. I still need to post their 100 year anniversary (1861) booklet.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/13-kr-lembert-hutfabrik/

The hat does look like Wool or some type of Wool - Fur blend. I think 1970s maybe a bit earlier on the dating. What does the paper label look like?

 

[M Hatman]

K. & R. Lembert Hat Factory is in Augsburg, Germany and they are still in business.

http://www.hutfabrik-lembert.de/

At one time they had produced both Wool and Fur Felt (specifically Velour). I believe that operation closed in the 1970s.

I visited the factory back in 2011 with Dieter (Dreispitz). You can see more here. I still need to post their 100 year anniversary (1861) booklet.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/13-kr-lembert-hutfabrik/

The hat does look like Wool or some type of Wool - Fur blend. I think 1970s maybe a bit earlier on the dating. What does the paper label look like?

Paper label is missing, blocking tags missing......
Thanks for the info.......you guys are great!
M

 

[mayserwegener]

I’ll try to gently stretch it a bit, but if doesn’t want to cooperate I’ll follow Lefty’s advice and just wear it a little further back on my head. I remember you stating that the pre-war velour was in a whole different league. I need to get my hands on one of those because this 1960s velour is great.

Thanks again for sharing your wealth of knowledge.

Brent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes the highest quality pre WWII Austrian and German Velour can be amazing. I would say J. Hückel ´s Söhne (pre WWI Neutitschein, Austria post WWI Nový Jičín, Czechoslovakia, post WWII Tonak) produced some of the finest.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...ann-hückel´s-söhne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/

 

[yttclothing]

My supplier just dried up for years it felt like, then all of a sudden they've found more hats.

One that I though was quite nice was this black homburg, simply marked Deutschers Fabrikat

The felt is good quality it's a bit stiffer than the normal European hats , what I liked most was the time taken and detail on the sweatband, the stitched fabric around the inside is a lovely detail

 

[mayserwegener]

I agree, it looks great. Does it say "Deutschers Fabrikat" on the liner?

 

[mayserwegener]

J. Hückel ´s Söhne "Standard" "Crystal Velour", French Point Size 5 1/2, Brim 2 1/4 inches, Crown Open 6 inches probably 1930s. The overall condition of the hat is near mint condition. The "Crystal Velour" condition, color (light shade of green), finish and hand are fantastic. I think once I can photograph it in natural light the color and finish will better represented. This is definitely one of my better finds in a while.

An example of an early JHS Hat Hanging Cord. Also a unique sweatband. The leather color, finish and hand are fantastic.

Open Crown

 

[steur]

Yesterday I picked up this one (had to leave several interesting German and Austrian hats behind because of wrong size and/or poor condition). This one has a flaw (soiled liner and a smal nick in the sweatband) bit is in great condition otherwise. J. Heinr. ITA, Wien, Super in grey. Size 56 with a bound brim at 6cm and crown 10cm at the pinch. Quality I-ETUI on the label. Don't see that many ITA hats around and I had handled this one before. The liner held me back then, but I stepped over it this time and took it with me.