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  1. Nick D

    What Does It Mean To Dress CASUAL In The 1910s And The 1920s And The 1930s And The 1940s?

    A third the population in some of the world's most populous cities over nearly half a century? Narrowing down might be, upper class England in the 20s. Even that's fairly broad, considering how much changes over a decade. You can get a general idea from searching though photos from the period.
  2. Nick D

    How often do you dress vintage/vintage inspired?

    I haven't had that happen on the clothes, but sometimes when I haven't curled my 'tache, or I think I'm having a Bad Moustache Day, people will compliment it.
  3. Nick D

    How often do you dress vintage/vintage inspired?

    I make a point of my students never seeing me without a tie, so I'm in a suit five days a week minimum generally. During summer break especially I may go to my office in vintage or vintage-inspired casual, but I really like wearing a suit.
  4. Nick D

    Repairing greatcoat buttons and buttonholes

    For strength and looks, the buttons on coats should be corded keyhole. Some high-end machines have a keyhole setting, but most don't.
  5. Nick D

    Repairing greatcoat buttons and buttonholes

    Button gimp, which is on most jacket buttonholes. I like using linen upholstery thread. A buttonhole stitch is strong and looks good, and isn't difficult, but doing it so it looks good and even takes a lot of practice. Tailoring houses often have a person who specializes in just the...
  7. Nick D

    Shirt collar oddities - Boardwalk Empire Shirt Collars

    Home-sewing patterns from the '20s for mens shirts with this feature indicate a piece of 1/4" twill tape with the buttons sewn on either end.
  8. Nick D

    USPS - snails pace

  9. Nick D

    Show us your British suits

    Archibald Whife briefly mentions different ways to make joined facings in The Art of Garment Making, but he didn't like them. "Joined facings, it should be stressed, are not to be commended. Most good tailoring houses will make sure that their coat-makers are supplied with enough cloth to make...
  10. Nick D

    Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

    The best thing about German suits may be the details and finishing of the trousers.
  11. Nick D

    Detachable Collar Stud Question

    The loop is for the tie, to keep the band from riding up in the back. It, and the stud, should be covered by the collar of the jacket so there is nothing wrong about it.
  13. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Very nice, MCG.
  14. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Not bad. One of the best things about sewing is getting something with all the details you want the way you want them (same as bespoke, just less expensive and more time consuming). Needs a trim, though ;) What's the lining?
  15. Nick D

    Romanian Fashions in the mid-20th Century

    We've seen a lot of the men and their outfits, but here are some of the guys who made the clothes:
  16. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Thanks, Johnny. The jacket will be single breasted notch lapel with four patch pockets, belted back with a yoke and gathered panel between it and the belt.
  17. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Thanks! Here's a couple things I've been working on. Linen plus fours. They started as a regular trouser pattern but I altered it (more than just changing the cuff to a knee band.) Peek at a larger project, a tweed suit based off an original. Trousers and vest are done. Trousers are...
  19. Nick D

    BRITISH Belt-Back Suits and Sports Jackets

    It's certainly unusual.
  20. Nick D

    BRITISH Belt-Back Suits and Sports Jackets

    Nice, no pleating on the back so the stripes line up. Never been keen on striped belted jackets, but this one it works.
  21. Nick D

    Spear point collar shirts

    I used to starch them heavily at home, but now I only starch them lightly (semi-stiff, I guess). They keep their shape but the lighter starch lets me wear the tall ones with a collar bar, which I like sometimes.
  22. Nick D

    Spear point collar shirts

    Here's a shirt I just finished. From a '30s pattern with my four favorite collars: 3" and 4" spearpoints, a double round, and a square corner (does it have a name?) The last two are copies of '20s Arrow collars.
  23. Nick D

    Spear point collar shirts

    Oh, definitely. Whether starched or soft I always put the tie on the collar, then button the collar on.

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