Yes, I agree with Scott: hot shower in my case, tucked knits, some tumble drying (on low/medium heat) to bring out grain, use of hot hair drier on occasions.
I wouldn't go that far Jeff, JC gives some guidance on HWT on his jacket CD ROM and shows examples in which he's aged jackets, unless he's changed his opinion in recent years. It does depend on the hide though - he counselled against using it on his goatskin as it would leave it dry and stiff...
Superficially, it looks like a Perry Sportswear with the scalloped pocket flaps, but there's reinforcement stitching at the base of the zipper and diagonal reinforcement stitches at the top of the pockets (both not typical Perry features). The placement of the box stitching on the epaulettes...
As Andrew says, it's an acquired taste. The Perry Sportswear contracts are amongst my favourite patterns - all, including the 'no name' 1756 if this is by Perry as believed, have collar stands. However, the collar stands very proud and can chafe the neck a little in use.
For comfort, I've come...
I agree with Scott. My vintage AN-J-3 really shouldn't fit me - tagged 40 although not small - as I wear a vintage 44. However, it's a forgiving design and a flattering cut.
Goat is the best long term bet provided that the small 'pebbles' in grain (sometimes seen in much older jackets) don't peel to reveal the softer hide underneath.
Personally, after capeskin I prefer goat to horsehide, but it does take a little longer to wear in.
Yes sheepskin is significantly thinner/weaker than the other hides that you mentioned. Of those, goatskin is believed to be the sturdiest in terms of tear strength (measured against e.g. a horsehide of similar weight).
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