The Vintage Tailoring Thread

[Annixter]

^^Great scan with interesting ideas for the feature, Baron. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Barmey]

I'd show you my masters method for making a great canvas, but if I did, I'd have to kill you.

 

[Giftmacher]

Found this, looks good by me
http://www.sardel.cz/do/sako.pdf
http://www.sardel.cz/do/cepice.pdf
http://www.sardel.cz/do/pumpky.pdf

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Nice. Do you have any dates on those? Look middle 30s?

 

[Giftmacher]

I guess so, although there's no info about date on the site
http://www.sardel.cz/do_en.html

 

[cchgn]

anyone know what this fabric is that is often used for vintage labels ?
it appears to be cotton but with a crispy, coated finish a bit like Holland linen:

i haven't been able to find the proper term for it (or find any for sale).

Serge is a form of twill that has a distinctive weave which creates a pattern of diagonal ridges in the fabric and it is known for being extremely sturdy and resilient. The origins of serge appear to be quite ancient. The word is derived from the Greek serikos, which means “silken,” suggesting that the fabric was probably brought to Europe from China. By the 8th century AD, people were certainly using serge, but the fabric was available primarily to the upper classes. Europeans also developed a version made from wool, with production being centered in France by the 1500s, typically using high-quality English wool. Wool serge is excellent for uniforms and suits, and it is possible to produce it in both light and heavy weights, for a variety of climates. Because it is a very flexible, resilient fabric, it tends to cope very well with crumpling and pressing, making it convenient for extended wear.

 

[volvomeister13]

I wasn't sure if this was the right place for this question, but it has to do with tailoring.

I have a MTM S. Cohen suit I got four years ago. As far as modern suits go, I really like it and feel like it sort of fits in with my love of 1920's style. The fabric, like many modern fabrics, is too thin for my taste, but the quality, color, and pattern are great. I love the three-button, three-piece configuration with no vent.

However, the shoulders are padded (although much less so than many modern suits) and the pants have the horrible pleats and garbage bag-level drapability that plague all too many contemporary trousers. (When I had it made I was in college and still lived under the mistaken impression that adding pleats somehow made any pair of pants more old-fashioned- oh the irony!)

I'm hoping a capable tailor might be able to reduce the shoulder padding, remove the pleats, and slim down the pants. I realize these are complex operations and I was wondering if anyone in the lounge had any experience having these kinds of alterations done. What do you guys think?

Thanks!

 

[Tomasso]

I'm hoping a capable tailor might be able to reduce the shoulder padding, remove the pleats, and slim down the pants. I realize these are complex operations and I was wondering if anyone in the lounge had any experience having these kinds of alterations done. What do you guys think?

The alterations you suggest will run a few hundred dollars. Are you sure the suit is worth that kind of investment?

 

[volvomeister13]

It's possible. The suit was really expensive, so it might be worth it relative to the overall value, if it's even possible to do that without ruining the suit.

 

[Tomasso]

Well, the trousers will be relatively easy, it's the shoulders that can be tricky. It's really a job for a bespoke caliber tailor rather than an alterations tailor or a seamstress. And then you'd want a guy who has made a lot of natural shoulders. If you've got that guy and the cash then give it a go.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Not worth it for the jacket. Sorry. Why sugarcoat the answer even if it is not what you want to hear?

 

[Tomasso]

Not worth it for the jacket. Sorry.

Yeah, the first rule of selecting a jacket is if the shoulders aren't right, take a pass. The rational being that the fix is way to problematic and costly to take a chance.

 

[buler]

Ran across these issues of Progressive Tailor from 1917 and 1920 on googlebooks. Thought someone might enjoy.

ProgressiveTailor


B

 

[Barmey]

Excellent! Is there a way to access the full book? I can only see a few previews.

 

[buler]

Excellent! Is there a way to access the full book? I can only see a few previews.

Hmmm. The full scans are online here in the states.

B

 

[Barmey]

Awww damn. Thanks for sharing anyway.

*edit* used a proxy site and now I can see it

 

[Belloqinabush]

I love thirties and forties menswear and was wondering about double breasted suits with patch pockets and if this was ever done. I am making a suit using an eva dress 40s blazer pattern but am curious about the patch pockets it features. I will be making a full suit for it and thought that although it might be acceptable for a blazer it may be odd on a double breasted suit.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Reasonably common, particularly on youthful cuts and styles.

 

[Nick D]

I love thirties and forties menswear and was wondering about double breasted suits with patch pockets and if this was ever done. I am making a suit using an eva dress 40s blazer pattern but am curious about the patch pockets it features. I will be making a full suit for it and thought that although it might be acceptable for a blazer it may be odd on a double breasted suit.

I'm making a jacket with the same pattern right now.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I vote in favour of patch pockets too. Except you are aiming at a business suit.