The Vintage Tailoring Thread

[Baron Kurtz]

It certainly will. Rub points will go just ever so slightly shinier.

Nice job as ever. Wherefrom is the corduroy? I got a link from Rudie to his German stuff. Would be interested in the source of yours!

btw, I just raided my local charity shop and came away with about 200-300 30s/40s "basic" bowl-back plastic buttons of the type so common on vintage suit jackets, trousers &cetera, but which are almost impossible to source modern versions of. I've been meaning to do it for years. The dame thought I was mental, picking through all her buttons and only taking the "crap" ones. A few corozo ones in there too. So if you're on the hunt for sets for your projects or for replacements for missing ones on vintage items, I'll probably have what you need!

 

[herringbonekid]

Baron, the cord is the Bookster stuff tracked down via their trouser maker after Bookster closed. i'm not sure what they currently have in stock but i'll email you their details.
i don't know who the actual cord maker is, but i think Old Town probably use the same one.

yes, jacket vintage button sets are very difficult to find. i don't actually have any at all apart from the few i've taken off jackets that have been ruined.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

If you have local independent charity shops (and given the old folks home you live in, I assume you do - pretty sure I've been to some of them) they will have old cake and biscuit tins jam packed with buttons. An hour or two of digging and you're quids in. Same goes for boxes of zippers and buckles.

Thanks for the cord recommendation. Will check 't email.

 

[herringbonekid]

p.s. i considered using these buttons on the jacket but decided against it:

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Is that a cow?? (Hope so, better than a bring standard deer.)

I love the French hunting buttons. There's (at least there was a month or so ago) a lovely set of jaunty running bunny rabbit ones on French eBay.

 

[herringbonekid]

no silly, it's a stag. people don't hunt cows, not even in France !

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Never trust a Frenchman. He'll hunt your cows and seduce your women (or very possibly the other way round!, blood drinking devils) and before you know it you'll be eating saucisson de cheval, frogs and garlic, and enjoying it!

 

[Rudie]

Wonderful work, hbk.

I have cord high rise trousers from Old Town. They age very nicely. Some of my favorite trousers.

 

[Two Types]

You should have used the stag buttons! They are great. I've seen some old white French buttons with sailing scenes on them (in an antique shop in Lewes). I was tempted to buy them with the thought of oneday having some sort of light coloured casual jacket made with the yacht buttons. Maybe I'll pick them up if I go back there.

 

[herringbonekid]

Rudie, thanks.

TT, as this suit is inspired by the American catalogue image i thought i'd try to remain as faithful as possible - though some details are different - and the French buttons looked a bit like chocolate novelty buttons on the jacket.

if i ever find some of this French fabric though i'll use them:

 

[Barmey]

Great work yet again HBK. Can't wait to see it in person!

 

[herringbonekid]

for those following the progress of the leather lined corduroy Norfolk suit, here are a few shots of the lining:

the technical term for this leather is 'analine nappa'. it's very thin, approx 0.7mm.

more shots of the finished suit on the blog:

http://laurencejohn.blogspot.co.uk/

 

[Metatron]

Wonderful work HBK, looks like you found just the right leather to use for the lining.
I had trouble envisioning it, but it looks right.

Half way through watching a Jean Renoir film in which he appears wearing this jacket:


Similar to the hunting one you posted a photo of.

 

[herringbonekid]

drape compared to non-drape:

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Thanks. Does anyone have information on canvas modification for the drape models? I'm sure I've read something somewhere (and in one of my own references, dammit) but I can't find it right now.

I bought a mid 30s British (hacking) jacket with very prominent vertical ripples in the chest, which seem to be underpinned by serious slashing through the canvases. I would love to take the jacket apart, but frankly it's too good an example to messed around with like that.

 

[herringbonekid]

Baron, have you unpicked the lining and seen the canvas slashes, or can you just feel them ?

you need to speak to Qirrel about canvas modification. i understand adding drape to the pattern, but i'm unsure about the canvas (whether the canvas needs extra 'V's and whatnot).

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I cen feel them through the fabric and through the liner. The seem like very deep 'V's from the shoulder to around the top button (3-button SB notch).

 

[simonc]

interesting

 

[Qirrel]

I cen feel them through the fabric and through the liner. The seem like very deep 'V's from the shoulder to around the top button (3-button SB notch).

Not quite sure what you mean here. Are the vees located along the coat front?

TBH there is no need to get overly complicated with the canvas; mirroring it the the fabric (i.e. do the same manipulations and take out the same darts from the canvas as from the fabric) should give the required effect. Also, cut the haircloth/chest piece clear of the front of the scye. This will facilitate the formation of neat folds in front of the scye. Here are a few scans of different ways to treat the canvas in a draped coat:

 

[Baron Kurtz]

As requested from the "show us what you made" thread. Tailor and Cutter. July 24, 1931. American and West End Trousers Systems. If anyone wants the full size version, PM me with an email address and I'll send as an attachment. Enjoy.