The Vintage Tailoring Thread

[Barmey]

The draft I used I think is from the mid 30s, though the guy i work with might have changed some of the period features i.e taking away the displaced shoulder seam. The shoulders are still pretty narrow, the waist fairly high, and the jacket rather long, so i hope it looks some what vintage. There is no side body which is rather unsual in alot of modern West End cutting. I'm currently collecting as many vintage drafting systems as I can get my hands on. The next one is going to be a 100% reproduction

I'm thinking about single button fastening or maybe a very close two. The trousers are a pretty slim cut (probably rather more exagexaggerated than a genuine 20s pair, but closer to the illustrated ideal) I'm also making a DB waistcoat. I'm not sure whether its going to look like a mongrel of traditional West End meets Jazz Age America. We'll see.

 

[Qirrel]

What draft was it? MTOC perhaps?

 

[Barmey]

What draft was it? MTOC perhaps?

Yeah I think it was 1933 edition. I've got a reprint of the 1928 one aswell. Pretty intresting stuff. Currently got my eye on an early twenties copy of the Cutters Practical Guide, I think they were still using WDF Vincents system at that point.

 

[Qirrel]

I think Vincent's direct/shoulder measure system must have been used into the 50s or 40s at least, since it was still published by T&C in the 30s. It would be interesting to see a early 20s version of Vincent's CPG.

 

[Barmey]

If I get it and it seems interesting I'll be sure to copy it and upload it as a PDF

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

1893to1898 cutters guide

 

[herringbonekid]

the 'circular pad' as seen in Marc's 30s plus four suit (above), in a modern Italian jacket (below):

 

[herringbonekid]

on the dummy:

jacket of Norfolk suit in dark olive 'poor man's velvet' (that's corduroy).

inspiration:

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Nice. While it is not a fabric or color I wear often it certainly can impress with the norfolk details. Will you go for a similar yoke in the back?
Will you wear it with the trousers of the same fabric?

 

[herringbonekid]

Flo, yes... all details as the suit above, only difference with jacket is that i'm doing pockets with a pleat.
same fabric trousers but with brace buttons rather than belt loops.

 

[Dinerman]

Not going for the full leather lining, I take it?

 

[herringbonekid]

of course !... leather body lining, not sleeves.

p.s.

i put a request out earlier in the year for anyone who had seen one of these suits in person to come forth:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?69703-1920s-suits&p=1600317&viewfull=1#post1600317

...no one did, so i'm assuming no one has found one in wearable condition.

 

[Dinerman]

Not a suit, but I do have a capeskin leather lined mackinaw from the mid 1920s. It has leather lined sleeves as well as the body.

 

[herringbonekid]

have you posted any photos of it here ?

 

[Dinerman]

I did, but because it's not a modern repro A-2, no one paid it any attention. Are there any detail type pics that would be helpful for you?

 

[herringbonekid]

any pics of the leather lining, especially around the seams.

 

[Dinerman]

I'm afraid they're not up to my usual standard- don't have anything set up and I'm losing the natural daylight, but I hope these help. I've turned it inside out to illustrate the seams better.

Shoulder


Underarm


Detail of how leather meets fabric


Cuff. It's a coat, so it has storm cuffs.


One piece back

 

[herringbonekid]

wow, that's almost a separate jacket inside-out as lining. the leather i'm using for the body of the cord suit is much thinner.

thanks for the photos !

 

[Dinerman]

The coat's definitely a beast, but the photos are a bit deceptive- it's a pretty thin capeskin. Great as a lining, maybe not so durable if it was on the outside. The windproofing of its day.

Can't wait to see your suit!

 

[Two Types]

I did, but because it's not a modern repro A-2, no one paid it any attention.

The curse of the 'Outerwear' threads: So much modern leather that everything else goes unnoticed. Maybe there should be two separate areas: 'Outerwear' and 'Modern Leather Outerwear'?
I find that, just as I miss all the interesting stuff in the outerwear thread, I hardly ever bother checking in classifieds because it is so full of hats for sale that it's difficult to keep up with anything else that might be interesting.