The Vintage Tailoring Thread

[Flat Foot Floey]

TT I guess it would be impractical. Some selvedge denim threads already wandered to the outerwear subforum for the same reason though. Do you use the new posts button? If the captions of the threads are clear it should work this way.

Interesting pictures dinerman. I didn't knew the sleeves were lined too.

 

[Rudie]

I don't get the advantage of a leather lining. Leather outside and wool inside makes sense to me but not the other way round.

 

[herringbonekid]

Rudie, i assume it's a way to add more warmth to a jacket while keeping the slippery feel of a standard rayon lining.
i don't think wool fleece / blanket would be suitable for a more tailored jacket as it would ruck against clothing underneath, and also add too much bulk.

anyway, i'll be able to tell you quite soon if it's a success or not.

 

[Rudie]

I always thought leather doesn't have much insulation power and is best used as an outer shell.

On the other hand, a leather lining will certainly look stylish. And it probably helps to prevent the cord from sagging and getting baggy. I am quite sure you will make another stunner.

 

[herringbonekid]

probably what Dinerman mentioned above; windproofing rather than heat retention.

 

[Rudie]

Sure, windproofing. But why put it inside? With the leather outside it would wear much warmer, wouldn't it?

 

[herringbonekid]

then it wouldn't be a corduroy suit. it would be a leather jacket. :eusa_doh:

 

[Rudie]

Sure. But no matter if you use heavy or lightweight cord it won't be very warm due to the leather being inside and not outside. Maybe tougher with heavy cord, but not much warmer. A normal cord suit paired with a windproof coat would make more sense to me.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Why not? The layer of air between the leather and other material (which is the foundation of any thermal insulation) is the same whether the leather's on the inside or the outside.Leather is, of course, as heavy materials go the worst in terms of warmth. It is truly an awful winter choice.

 

[herringbonekid]

Rudie, i think you're more concerned with the practicality of this suit than i am.

my initial response on seeing the catalogue image (Charles Williams, Fall Winter 1920-21) was along the lines of "wow, i want one of those !"

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

HBK that is my motto" practicality be damed i want one of those.!!!!!" drives my wife crazy.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

"wow, i want one of those !"

Hahahah. Oh I know the feeling so well!

Here is a RL corduroy Norfolk which is selling on german ebay right now. The back seems very similar.

 

[herringbonekid]

curses, RL has beat me to it again !

only joking of course. has that one got a buckle belt rather than buttons ?

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Haha yours will be much better. The useless leather lining will ensure it

Yes it has a buckle and I think the did a mediocre job with the lapels too. It's size small otherwise I might have tried to buy it.

 

[Dinerman]

In the 1910s and 1920s, leather was more common as a lining material in jackets and coats than it was as an outer material. In that period, leather was not as socially acceptable as outerwear as it was in later decades. Period articles talk about the American tanning industry producing unworkably stiff cow and horse hides. Most makers, both of leather outerwear and leather-lined garments, went with thin, lightweight leathers. Lightweight suedes and capeskin were by far the most popular, largely replaced by heavier leathers only into the 1930s. These lightweight leathers were also fairly fragile. Putting them inside a jacket allowed it to still perform its job, but also to be protected from damage by the outer shell of the jacket.

Leather was generally used for two reasons in this period: reinforcement and wind resistance. Reinforcement falls into the category of donkey jackets and pocket and sleeve reinforcement on railroad mackinaws. With my 1920s Montgomery Ward's leather lined mackinaw, it's lined to the waist, not all the way to the hem of the coat. The leather is where it's needed and is doing the job it's intended to do.

Even early innovators of the modern leather jacket started out with the leather on the inside as a windbreaking layer.

 

[herringbonekid]

Flo, yes, there's always the danger with this sort of jacket that it will end up looking like a 1970s cord safari jacket, which the RL one has fallen into.
as well as trying to stick closely to the original, i also plan on wearing it with a heavy 20s style; flat cap, bow tie, balmoral boots, to offset any 70s vibes. :eeek:

interesting stuff Dinerman, thanks.

edit: isn't that a corduroy coat with leather sleeves in the ad ?

 

[herringbonekid]

not a Norfolk, but a nice cord suit by Adjustable Costume:

 

[herringbonekid]

the cord Norfolk jacket is finished. i'll take better photos when the trousers are finished, but here's a sneak peak...

 

[Fastuni]

Exquisite tailoring as always. :eusa_clap

 

[herringbonekid]

thanks Fastuni. if you look at the sleeve there are a few wrinkles already and i've only tried it on a few times !
i think cord will quickly aquire a 'lived in ' look.