The Deck Jacket thread.

[CatsCan]

@CatsCan Thanks again. I hope you don't mind if I turn it into a forum jacket.

Perfectly fine! That's why I gave it to you. I knew you would pass it on to others should you decide to not keep it. The Pike's is made of higher end materials and of much better workmanship. I do think however, they mess up the sleeves (too bulky, to wide, too little taper) and the torso cut and the color. I agree with Will and TartuWolf, the Mil-Tec looks much better on you. If only Pike Brothers would cut their N1 in a more flattering way. I am insisting on this since years, since it's a German Company and I know they do good craftmanship (mostly in Turkey).

How does the fit of this deck jacket look on me?

In my eyes it looks very good on you.

 

[CatsCan]

I believe @CatsCan when he says that the Mil-tec has the best cut out there, and the Pike Brothers one of the worst.

And I stand by my words. Pike Brothers' Materials and price with the cut of the Mil-Tec would be my personal N1 endgame. The Mil-Tec is all in all a fair and good looking jacket, especially taken it's price into account. I have changed the buttons to period ones and re-painted the U.S.N. stencil and am very happy with mine.

@Will Zach: I still have two sets of 1944 mil spec buttons, if you decide to swap your's, I can ship them to Poland.

 

[CatsCan]

I haven’t looked through this entire thread, but if you want a more modern fit on an N1, I highly recommend giving Iron Heart A go.

I agree. I bet, we will see Mr. Proper in one very soon, before this winter is over.

 

[TartuWolf]

@CatsCan
Oh god, is the PB cut/pattern really that bad? Now I'm worried about my incoming PB N1.

 

[CatsCan]

Oh god, is the PB cut/pattern really that bad? Now I'm worried about my incoming PB N1.

Don't worry, it's just not for me, you may actually like it (many do) and it may fit better on you because you can wear it in a smaller size and this can actually be the factor. But, when your first feeling is "no", don't talk yourself into it just because you have looked forward to it. I had two Pike N1s. The first I did keep just because I wanted it since long. It lived in my closet unworn until I sold it for a loss. The second one I got cheap (45€) and I kept it for my forest activities. I am curious how it fits you, please show us fit pics!

 

[andyone]

@CatsCan was generous enough to give me this jacket in 42 for free. It was my introduction to deck jackets, so to speak, and I was hooked.
Now that I have a Pike Brothers as an upgrade, I would like to pass the Mil Tec on to the next person who wants to try out Deck Jackets.
I will be happy to send them on in return for the shipping costs.
@CatsCan Thanks again. I hope you don't mind if I turn it into a forum jacket.

If the jacket hasn't gone yet I would like to try. I will write you a message!

 

[MrProper]

Perfectly fine! That's why I gave it to you. I knew you would pass it on to others should you decide to not keep it. The Pike's is made of higher end materials and of much better workmanship. I do think however, they mess up the sleeves (too bulky, to wide, too little taper) and the torso cut and the color. I agree with Will and TartuWolf, the Mil-Tec looks much better on you. If only Pike Brothers would cut their N1 in a more flattering way. I am insisting on this since years, since it's a German Company and I know they do good craftmanship (mostly in Turkey).

In my eyes it looks very good on you.

The sleeves are really a bit wide. But less so on the Omaha than on the Elephant. I'm still thinking about having the sleeves adjusted.
I like the colour though and the body fits me well (and will get even better) since I've worn it a bit and tied the cord at the hem a bit tighter. Overall I'm very pleased.

 

[CatsCan]

The sleeves are really a bit wide. But less so on the Omaha than on the Elephant. I'm still thinking about having the sleeves adjusted.

I had mine altered. Make sure the tailor knows his or her stuff. It's not as easy as with mall jackets, all seams are true felled seams and the knit cuffs are integrated in a complicated way. I had mine tapered from below the ellbow down to the wrists. But I have a good tailor. He is 85 and a tailor in the 4th generation. There is a funny story about him, who we all call "Flinke Nadel": last time I went down to his shop, he had his hand bandaged. I asked him, what he did with his hand. He looked at me and it started. You know - he said - I have doves. I said: oh, was it an infection because of contact with animals? He said no. There is a ladder up to my doves - he continued - and on my way down I had my little finger cought in the attachment of the ladder and when I was down, I could see it dangling loose on my hand. I said: You sure called the ambulance, of course! He: "Ambulance? No. I went into the village and to the Doc and asked if he could fix this. Of course they called the ambulance without further ado. Can you imagine, they drove me all the way into town (which is 10 miles away) and had a hand surgeon look at it. The surgeon said, I can try to save the finger with a risk of infection or amp it. I asked, how long would I be away from working if you sew the finger back on. He said, half a year. I said no way. He amputed the finger right away and I am back to work after 4 weeks. Who needs a little finger."

THAT'S A GUY.

 

[MrProper]

I agree with Will and TartuWolf, the Mil-Tec looks much better on you.

This is interesting because the dimensions of both jackets are very similar.
Mil-Tec/PB:
Shoulder: 52 cm/51 cm
P2P: 63 cm/63 cm
Hem: 60 cm/58 cm
Back length: 72 cm/68 cm
Sleeve length outside: 69 cm/68 cm
Sleeve length inside: 52 cm/56 cm
Armhole: 29.5 cm/29 cm
Cuff circumference: 35 cm/38 cm

The material of the PB feels twice as thick as the Mil-Tec. I think the PB will become a little softer over time and then drape better.

The only way I can explain the visual difference is that the Mil-Tec is significantly softer and therefore drape differently.
However, as I like shorter jackets, the PB suits me perfectly ;-)

I had a look at the Ironheart. But I don't think the sizes are ideal. They are very long and very wide at the bottom, which I don't like so much. I'd have to go for the oiled one, as I don't like the patch pockets on the normal one. The collar also seems to me to be slightly larger. But maybe I'll come across a second-hand one in XXXL and then I can have a look.

 

[MrProper]

I had mine altered. Make sure the tailor knows his or her stuff. It's not as easy as with mall jackets, all seams are true felled seams and the knit cuffs are integrated in a complicated way. I had mine tapered from below the ellbow down to the wrists. But I have a good tailor. He is 85 and a tailor in the 4th generation. There is a funny story about him, who we all call "Flinke Nadel": last time I went down to his shop, he had his hand bandaged. I asked him, what he did with his hand. He looked at me and it started. You know - he said - I have doves. I said: oh, was it an infection because of contact with animals? He said no. There is a ladder up to my doves - he continued - and on my way down I had my little finger cought in the attachment of the ladder and when I was down, I could see it dangling loose on my hand. I said: You sure called the ambulance, of course! He: "Ambulance? No. I went into the village and to the Doc and asked if he could fix this. Of course they called the ambulance without further ado. Can you imagine, they drove me all the way into town (which is 10 miles away) and had a hand surgeon look at it. The surgeon said, I can try to save the finger with a risk of infection or amp it. I asked, how long would I be away from working if you sew the finger back on. He said, half a year. I said no way. He amputed the finger right away and I am back to work after 4 weeks. Who needs a little finger."

THAT'S A GUY.

Cool story
I have a good seamstress here for normal clothes and a very good leather cutter who also fits my leather jackets if necessary. I would also take the PB to him. But first I'll wear it for a while. Alterations are more likely to be a summer project ;-)

 

[CatsCan]

This is interesting because the dimensions of both jackets are very similar.

Strange indeed.
Would be interesting to know, how the measures compare if taken in different areas. Midway across between pit and hem, sleeve width at elbow hight. I am surprised at the ratio sh2sh and p2p being nearly identical. From the charts Pike Brothers have 14 cm jump from sh2sh to p2p...
From the measurements alone one would expect that the PB would look trimmer on you than the Mil-Tec considering the thicker marterials and heavier lining.

 

[MrProper]

Strange indeed.
Would be interesting to know, how the measures compare if taken in different areas. Midway across between pit and hem, sleeve width at elbow hight. I am surprised at the ratio sh2sh and p2p being nearly identical. From the charts Pike Brothers have 14 cm jump from sh2sh to p2p...
From the measurements alone one would expect that the PB would look trimmer on you than the Mil-Tec considering the thicker marterials and heavier lining.

There is a 1.5 cm difference in circumference at the elbow. So PB has 1.5 cm more. I would still have to measure the natural waist, but I think there is only a 1 cm difference.

 

[CatsCan]

Very strange indeed.

 

[CatsCan]

Just so others can have a better impression of what we talk about.
First two are Mil-Tec Size 42. The other two are Pike Brothers.

 

[TartuWolf]

Note that, like I said, PB changed their sizing/cut at some point.
I am also planning to take my PB to a tailor if I like it enough.

 

[CatsCan]

How different are the arm holes? There must be a difference somewhere that results in this remarkable optical change.

 

[TartuWolf]

Mil-spec looks thin and drapey. PB looks thick and beefy, stiff. Otherwise they do look quite similar in fit. PB looks better IMO.

 

[MrProper]

Just so others can have a better impression of what we talk about.
First two are Mil-Tec Size 42. The other two are Pike Brothers.

View attachment 671062 View attachment 671063 View attachment 671064 View attachment 671065

Better

 

[MrProper]

How different are the arm holes? There must be a difference somewhere that results in this remarkable optical change.

Armholes 29,5 cm MT, 29 cm PB

 

[CatsCan]

I have worn my latest PB a lot over the last two winters and it is soft now and not at all stiff but looks so much more bulky and kind of odd at me compared. You are right, the Pike is very substantial for sure. If this is what makes the difference, though... All measures nearly identical, I would expect the Pike to be less roomy looking due to the thicker fabrics and lining...