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The Cavanagh Club
- Thread starter rlk
- Start date
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A-List Customer
- Messages
- 315
- Location
- Conklin, NY
There are almost always additional tags under the liner adhered to the felt.
Alive'n'Amplified
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,032
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
Terrific hat, Sprinkles! :thumb:
I also have a Cavanagh Milan, and I have pressed the front of the brim with a steaming medium heat iron. It's best to use steam first and work the brim by hand. If you want the brim to "crisp", then you can start pressing it with the iron.
The best way to do this is to use an old white t-shirt, folded once or twice, between the straw and iron to keep it from burning. But you still have to be careful, because the heat will cook and burn the straw if you keep it on there too long or if you use too much pressure. Just make a pass and let it cool. Repeat until it starts taking shape. The straw will tighten and crisp up a little.
I also have a Cavanagh Milan, and I have pressed the front of the brim with a steaming medium heat iron. It's best to use steam first and work the brim by hand. If you want the brim to "crisp", then you can start pressing it with the iron.
The best way to do this is to use an old white t-shirt, folded once or twice, between the straw and iron to keep it from burning. But you still have to be careful, because the heat will cook and burn the straw if you keep it on there too long or if you use too much pressure. Just make a pass and let it cool. Repeat until it starts taking shape. The straw will tighten and crisp up a little.
rlk
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 6,100
- Location
- Evanston, IL
Cavanagh big, bound and edgeless
Lighter than typical Cavanagh felt, full 5-3/4"+ squarish block. Regrettably no factory tags remain. No Cavanagh Edge hiding under the binding and too wide for a trim and bind.
Lighter than typical Cavanagh felt, full 5-3/4"+ squarish block. Regrettably no factory tags remain. No Cavanagh Edge hiding under the binding and too wide for a trim and bind.
Brad Bowers
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,187
Nicely proportioned hat. Interesting that the sweat is taped, but has a later crest. Perhaps the anomalies can be explained by it having had a refurb somewhere along the way.
Brad
Brad
rlk
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 6,100
- Location
- Evanston, IL
It is from Bullock and Jones so lack of Ltd. may be from that. Lack of tags likely indicate trips to the cleaners(very clean). Has a hand written tape with a bunch of indecipherable numbers only.
- Messages
- 15,083
- Location
- Buffalo, NY
Intriguing... and I like the look. A little less uptight Cavanagh.
rlk
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 6,100
- Location
- Evanston, IL
Cavanagh w/ Carter Band
Last edited:
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Brad Bowers
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,187
Nice. That telescope crease it had before was awful. Is that ribbon narrower than we typically see on Cavanaghs of this period, or is it just an illusion? Looks like 1 3/4" or so in the photo, maybe even less.
Brad
Brad
rlk
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 6,100
- Location
- Evanston, IL
Thanks Brad. Yes, that ribbon is 1-5/8" wide. The brim is a skimpy 2-1/4". Felt is somewhat lighter than later Cavanaghs. Moth damage a bit worse than described, but not too visible when worn.
Chepstow
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 5,406
- Location
- Germany/ Remscheid
Robert, great hat and find. It's a greenish color what I can see on my monitor!
rlk
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 6,100
- Location
- Evanston, IL
Yes, thanks, it is an Olive Green.
Alive'n'Amplified
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,032
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
When are you going to open up your hat museum to the public, Robert? Great pick! :thumb:
Brad Bowers
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,187
Here's what I think is a very early Cavanagh Derby.
Cavanagh Make stamp, which doesn't seem to have lasted in production hats very many years.
Side-seam sweatband, a carryover from the earliest days of Derbies. I think all manufacturers had moved on to a rear seam, but Cavanagh revived it for his brand in 1928. Note the size spelled out, something else only seen on very early Cavanaghs.
Yes, everything is off kilter inside, from the liner to the reed, but that's again a revival of an older style that was otherwise gone by 1928.
Last but not least, the inside of the sweat and the factory label. Note that it's not the usual handwritten John Cavanagh Ltd. label, nor is it a standard C&K or Dobbs label, as I've sometimes seen. This might be a label prior to the introduction of the standard John Cavanagh Ltd. label. On the sweat, there are more markings than I've seen on any product from the C&K/Hat Corp. factory. On the left, it says "Cav" something. I don't think it indicates a Cavanagh Edge, but there may be a small one on this hat. 37 is the lot number, as also seen on the label - quite a low number. The exciting part is the intials JJC, for John J. Cavanagh. The little dot and curve is unknown to me. I was hoping that the JJC meant the Cavanagh himself had curled the brim, as he was wont to do from time to time to keep his hand in the game, or perhaps he inspected it personally, but the writing doesn't match his signature. I'm guessing it was merely an identifier, and meant that this hat was destined for the Cavanagh shop, prior to the installation of the liner. I've not seen anything like that on later, pre-1936 Cavanaghs, even a Derby similar to this one that I have.
Brad
Cavanagh Make stamp, which doesn't seem to have lasted in production hats very many years.
Side-seam sweatband, a carryover from the earliest days of Derbies. I think all manufacturers had moved on to a rear seam, but Cavanagh revived it for his brand in 1928. Note the size spelled out, something else only seen on very early Cavanaghs.
Yes, everything is off kilter inside, from the liner to the reed, but that's again a revival of an older style that was otherwise gone by 1928.
Last but not least, the inside of the sweat and the factory label. Note that it's not the usual handwritten John Cavanagh Ltd. label, nor is it a standard C&K or Dobbs label, as I've sometimes seen. This might be a label prior to the introduction of the standard John Cavanagh Ltd. label. On the sweat, there are more markings than I've seen on any product from the C&K/Hat Corp. factory. On the left, it says "Cav" something. I don't think it indicates a Cavanagh Edge, but there may be a small one on this hat. 37 is the lot number, as also seen on the label - quite a low number. The exciting part is the intials JJC, for John J. Cavanagh. The little dot and curve is unknown to me. I was hoping that the JJC meant the Cavanagh himself had curled the brim, as he was wont to do from time to time to keep his hand in the game, or perhaps he inspected it personally, but the writing doesn't match his signature. I'm guessing it was merely an identifier, and meant that this hat was destined for the Cavanagh shop, prior to the installation of the liner. I've not seen anything like that on later, pre-1936 Cavanaghs, even a Derby similar to this one that I have.
Brad
rlk
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 6,100
- Location
- Evanston, IL
Very intesting. I think mine of the same vintage had a straight liner despite the sidewinder seam. I'll have to re-check for writing on the sweat. Too bad the signature doesn't match
