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The Cap Faction

Messages
17,489
Location
Maryland
Indra Mützen Cardboard Stand Sign

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Hepville

One of the Regulars
Messages
246
Location
Germany
Because of a question of a fellow lounger about the availability of the new caps from the fabrics I´ve shown here:
In about two weeks I will come up with 5 or 6 new capsand put them up on Etsy... of course I´ll inform you guys when it´s done.
 

Adnamira

A-List Customer
Messages
423
Location
Woop Woop, Australia
Hickory stripe, cotton zasu. It'd be nice if they had flatter seams and a button that sat down, but the zasu work alright for me in volume, comfort and fit, and seeing as they are not very dear, I decided to get this one for summer - cotton lining, soft fabric and big shady brim. $60 to Australia. I'll wear it for casual - loose and floppy. Am also going to try a silk City Sport for neater look for going out.

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Razzman

One Too Many
Messages
1,357
Location
South of Boston
Here is the cap I ordered from Hepville. I've had the cap for several weeks now. It's a beautifully made cap. Expertly crafted and pieced together. The fabric is wonderful. Great color. It has the leather sweatband.

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Johnny J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,115
Location
Panama City, Florida
It'd be nice if they had flatter seams and a button that sat down

I like that fabric. Makes a nice looking cap. About the seams, I think they just need to avoid ironing both sides of salvage to one side and that should solve the problem. On the button, I'm not sure why it looks like that cause I haven't tried making a newsboy yet. Hepville has more knowledge on those caps.
 

Hepville

One of the Regulars
Messages
246
Location
Germany
Sleepless night for me this night... so I´m here at very unsusual times.

That cap looks very fine on you, Lou!
Thanks for your kind words, Johnny!

Adnamira - That cap suits you well.
If you feel through the fabric and touch the sewing allowance:
Is it ironed to one side?
How much sewing allowance can you feel (e.g. 1/2 or 5/8 inch)?
Is it a 6 panel or 8 panel?
As I remember from other pictures I have seen from Zasu Caps the panels are not totally pointed at the center seams?

The pieces look more triangular to me and less curved, so doing a better ironing should not be a big deal.
I suppose the sewing allowances are not cut back, so the seams are not that flat.
To avoid this (if you can´t block the caps) you have to cut back the seams, slit it a bit and do a good ironing on the curvier parts (best done with a cushioned ironing incus) and may top stich it (that´s how I flat the seams)... but that means more time and working steps on every cap.

Speaking of the button it looks like he uses a bomb type button with a bigger loop... you can´t attach those types of buttons closer to the the center.

I´ll have a very similar looking hickory stripe denim for my caps.
I even can get a sriped japan denim from Kurabo... but that stuff is pricey not only because of taxes and shipping I would have to pay.
 
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Adnamira

A-List Customer
Messages
423
Location
Woop Woop, Australia
Sleepless night for me this night... so I´m here at very unsusual times.

That cap looks very fine on you, Lou!
Thanks for your kind words, Johnny!

Adnamira - That cap suits you well.
If you feel through the fabric and touch the sewing allowance:
Is it ironed to one side?
How much sewing allowance can you feel (e.g. 1/2 or 5/8 inch)?
Is it a 6 panel or 8 panel?
As I remember from other pictures I have seen from Zasu Caps the panels are not totally pointed at the center seams?

The pieces look more triangular to me and less curved, so doing a better ironing should not be a big deal.
I suppose the sewing allowances are not cut back, so the seams are not that flat.
To avoid this (if you can´t block the caps) you have to cut back the seams, slit it a bit and do a good ironing on the curvier parts (best done with a cushioned ironing incus) and may top stich it (that´s how I flat the seams)... but that means more time and working steps on every cap.

Speaking of the button it looks like he uses a bomb type button with a bigger loop... you can´t attach those types of buttons closer to the the center.

I´ll have a very similar looking hickory stripe denim for my caps.
I even can get a sriped japan denim from Kurabo... but that stuff is pricey not only because of taxes and shipping I would have to pay.

I've tried to pull the seams and feel how much allowance is under them, but I can't feel any at all. No, the points at the top of the cap are unusual - the side panel points are cut off and square, while the front and back ones are triangular - so I am guessing that makes the crown longer than wide. I wonder if a loop or tassle of material like a beret would look better than that button. Anyway, he's been making them that way for a while, so I guess it is just the way they are. The brims are great and the way the crown is ample and sits up a bit seems to look alright on me. I like the look of those french eight dart caps, but they don't seem to suit me very well, for some reason. I'd like to get a newsboy made from worsted merino fabric sometime, seeing that I am a merino wool producer, so I will have to talk to you about that sometime, Bela.
 

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