Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Lauren]

The best thing to do is to have a friend mark for you an even line, then you cut off the excess to make it even all around, then hem.
Or you could get an old fashioned chalk hem marker.

I just found this posted online as well, but I'm not sure how well it would work.

I am looking at buying a chalk hem marker for marking skirts (give my husband a break!) and wondered if you have purchased the Deluxe hem marker from Nancy's Notions or the chalk hem marker made by Newey which is sold through A Great Sewing Notion. I had one years ago which wasn't very good and don't want to make the same mistake twice!

I have the marker that uses pins. I like it much more than the chalk one. But if you don't want to bother Hubby or friends try this:

Take a piece of string about 40 inches and rub chalk on it. Now thumb tack it across an open doorway at the level you want the hem to be and while wearing the skirt, stand in the doorway and turn around while rubbing against the string. Wala! you are marked.

From Leanna Studios

 

[Josephine]

Thanks, I might try that. The skirt is a little full though, I'd be afraid of not getting the parts that are in a fold. What do you all think about spreading the skirt out on a surface and measuring down from the waist?

 

[Snookie]

What do you all think about spreading the skirt out on a surface and measuring down from the waist?

That's how I usually do my hems, and it's okay, but Lauren's method is more accurate. Measuring down from the waist doesn't compensate for problems like bad posture or a big bum that needs more fabric so that it's not too short in the back.

When I measure down from the waist, I make a mark at every inch or two at the hem and "connect the dots". Don't just mark the side seams and cut straight across, it'll be too short at the CF and CB. If you're nervous, try marking the hem and trying it on before cutting off any length. BTW, I lay out my skirts on my ironing board for this.

If you have a similar skirt that you like, you can measure it to see how long it is (just make sure it's the same style - too hard to compare a six gore to an a-line, for example).

EDIT: if your skirt is on the bias, don't measure down from the waist, it won't stretch right on the table. Only measure down if it's on the straight grain.

 

[Josephine]

EDIT: if your skirt is on the bias, don't measure down from the waist, it won't stretch right on the table. Only measure down if it's on the straight grain.

It's a circle skirt, so part of it is. I think. I have to let it hang 24 hours to relax it, so I think so.

 

[zaika]

would anyone be willing to point me to a thread or website that gives detailed instructions on how to alter patterns and/or make something without a pattern? i have some vintage patterns, some of which haven't been used and comes with instructions, and other which have been used and are already cut. i figured that i could probably guess how to fit the dress to my form using the the shapes of the pieces that are laid out on the back of the envelope...but i've never done that before. could i do it by guessing? would a dress form be more useful? any existing threads or websites about this would be very helpful. thanks!

 

[Lady Day]

Actually, if you look in the latest issue of Threads Magazine (the vintage issue) they have a nice section on grading patterns.

LD

 

[zaika]

thanks, lady day.

 

[Laraquan]

Is there anyway to learn?

I've only recently learned to stitch a rip in clothing - though I haven't the skill or know-how to work out how to do a seam that's frayed open - and no one in my family knows how to stitch well, let alone sew. So what should I do? I would so love to learn how to make clothing but I've no idea where to start.

 

[crwritt]

Check your local library for some books on sewing. The older ones can be very amusing. Ask at the fabric store if there are sewing classes available, even if there aren't, there may be people there who can help you with specific projects.
High schools and community colleges sometimes have sewing classes.

 

[ohairas]

Hi Laraquan~
Yes, there are many books and I've even seen how-to videos on ebay. Best wishes, I want to learn as well. Some of the older books I have seem to go more in depth. Esp. with hand sewing.
Nikki

 

[Blondie]

I would check out the Adult Education classes in your area,( usually held at local highschools at night ) more than likely beginners sewing will be offered, i think it's easier to learn this way as you will have someone guiding you through the basics such as working a sewing machine, opening a pattern and what to do with it, your first garment etc.

 

[Ada Veen]

I'd second the books from the library, and you can usually get useful 'readers digest' type compendiums (how to fix anything/sew anything in 1o days! etc) at jumble sales/second hand stores for mere pence!

 

[Joie DeVive]

All those listed above are great options.

Books are great for learning hand stitches, and that is a good place to start.

On the other hand, taking classes from a school or or a sewing shop offers you the use of a machine without having to invest in one.

If you would be more comfortable learning from someone you know, it might be worth asking around. Ladies who lived in the 1940s and 1950s often knew how, so you could try the local "little old ladies". Try your neighbors, your parent's (or grandparent's!!) friends, the ladies from local social clubs or worship centers.

Good luck in your quest!

 

[Laraquan]

I live in a block of flats in the city. The old people are all petrified of me. Well, the ones in the flats are. The ones on buses seem nice enough.

 

[Lady Day]

There might be some tips in the sewing FAQ thread.

In fact Ill merge it with this one.

LD

 

[ohairas]

I would love to see pics of how this turned out! I have a few dresses I would like to try this on as well.
Besides, you talked about how cute the trim was and we wanna see!
Nikki

thanks Sally, actually the armholes / shoulders were fine, it was just too large on the rest of the body, especially in the waist. I gave it another look last night and decided it was probably homemade (waist darts were not spaced evenly and theres a wiggle-y seam or two) Anyways I finally decided to try a large dart in the back, from the top of the neck to the end of the skirt, with the waist being taken in the most. This worked just fine and I think if I need to let it out in the future it should be a snap. I love when things work out on the first try!

 

[hotrod_elf]

Making a 50's coat

I have question: I want to make a lining for this coat. I think I know how to do it, but want reassurance before I cut everything. Here is what I think I'm suppose to do. Cut the lining same as the pattern and follow the direction. with the coat inside out and the lining right side in figure out how the attach them together. Am I far off or do I have the right idea?


LD I know you have wonderful experience with linnings and coats, any hints?


The Lime green cordrouy is the outside shell and the blk/red/white is the lining.

[/IMG]

 

[Ada Veen]

According to the "BBC step by step dressmaking" book:

"The facings in a tailored jacket are secured to the interfacing so that the jacket will keep its shape. This means the linings will have to be stitched by hand. This makes a very neat and well fitting linign which is also secured at the hem.

A seperate pattern is usually given for lining. It gives a pleat at the centre back and allows for the depth of pad at the shoulder (this is an 80s book!). However, if no lining is given in your pattern, pin the facing pattern under the front pattern matching outside seam lines, notches etc. Trace down the inner curved edge of the facing. Remove the facing pattern.

You now need to add 2 seam allowances - one to turn under to neaten the edge and one for the amount the lining will overlap the facing. Draw a line parallel to the first and 3cm away from it, that is, nearer the front edge. This is the cutting line for the lining front. Allow extra on the shoulder seams for the pads (!). Add the width of two seam allowances and extend the shoulder.

To cut the back lining pattern, place the back neck facing (if there is one) under the pattern back and draw the shape as above. Add on the turnings. Place the lining pattern 2.5cm away from the fold when cutting out, to allow for the pleat. The sleeve lining is cut from the jacket pattern.

STITCHING THE LINING

The lining is inserted by hand in two stages - the body and then the sleeves. Join the front and back lining at the side seams. Press the seams open.

Put the jacket wrong side out on a dressmakers dummy, with the sleeves tucked into the inside. Wrap the lining round the jacket, wrong sides together and pin at the armhole edges to hold it.

Lift the front lining and fold it toward the back to reveal the side seams. Flash baste the nearest seam turnings of the coat and lining together with diagonal tacking so that the seams are facing and on top of each other.

Then tack the jacket and lining armhole edges together, matching seams and notches. This tacking is not removed, so use a matching thread, a small stitch, and work the row of stitches on the seam allowance just outside the stitching line. Slip stitch the front and back together at the shoulder seam, trimming away surplus fabric.

Turn under the seam allowance round the neck and down the front edges and pin. Slip stitch these lining edges invisibly and firmly to the jacket.

Smooth the lining over the jacket and tack it down just above the hem edge. Turn under the 1.5cm seam allowance and pin the fold to cover the hem edge so that the excess fabric forms a tuck for wearing ease. Slip stitch the hem.

The lining sleeve is stitched last. Stitch the lining sleeve seams and press open. With both the jacket sleeve and lining sleeve wrond side out place the front lining seam flat on top of the corresponding jacket sleeve. Match the notches and flash baste the turnings down one edge with diagonal tacking, in the same way as the jacket side seams.

Slip your hand into the lining sleeve, grasp the edge of the jacket sleeve and turn the lining sleeve right side out, over the fabric sleeve.

Turn under the seam allowance round the sleeve head and pin the folded edge over the armhole seam line. Slip stitch in place, taking small tucks over the sleeve head to dispose of surplus fullness."

Phew! I've never followed this but have used the book for other things and been pleased with the result. Hope it helps!

 

[hotrod_elf]

makes me not want to put in a lining now.:cry:

 

[Josephine]

makes me not want to put in a lining now.:cry:

I hear ya! I have Vogue 2902 and they want a darn liner in the thing. I'm going to try it without...