Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[vintagelaura]

Actually, now that I've looked over the JudithM site again, I don't remember if I ordered petersham or grosgrain. But either one will work. Both are a sturdy, ribbed "ribbon", but not flimsy like decorative ribbon you might buy at a craft store. Waist stays are usually about 1" wide, so go for the thicker stuff. JudithM carries several widths.

Laura

 

[ohairas]

Thanks so much Laura!
I have both victorian and edwardian corsets. I know the victorian would show thru the gown, and I'm not sure about the other. I'd have to try it. But then, I really don't want to hook anything to that either.

I'm thinking of making something like a bustle pad thingy, only not a bustle pad. Just a placket of sorts with the grossgrain and some boning that I'll wear around my waist? Think it would work?

I checked the site, there is a high end fabric store I can check too.. I'll check Joann's but it seems they didn't have it when I looked once. Our Joann's is a mess tho.

Yes I love the mill gown too. When I was about 12 I had a vintage blue velvet bolero that I would parade around in acting like Scarlett. I don't know whatever happened to it, and I really wish I had it now as I bet it was a 40's garment.
Nikki

 

[vintagelaura]

Nikki, have you ever seen an inner bodice in an antique dress? The book, "Costume in Detail", talks about one on an edwardian dress, and I saw one several years ago for sale on the VintageTextile website. The inner bodice is sort of like a corset in shape and size, but it isn't meant to be constricting. It's worn over the corset, and the entire dress is hung (sewn at strategic points) on the inner bodice. It ensures that the dress hangs properly and it reduces stress on the gown from the weight of the fabric.

The inner bodices I have seen were muslin and only moderately boned. They aren't boned as extensively as a corset would be.

An inner bodice is what popped into my mind when you were talking about a bustle pad. I think it is larger than what you have in mind (from mid bust to hips, in the case of the edwardian one) but I think it would really do the job.

Let me see if I can dig up the photos from the VintageTextile site. I'm pretty sure I saved them for future reference.

Laura

 

[ohairas]

have you ever seen an inner bodice in an antique dress?

Yes Laura, I have. I collect vintage clothing from 1860-present. I have a few edwardian gowns, a dress from about 1875, and an absoulutely gorgeous red waist from the 1870's. Lots of underpinings and a few corsets, ect.
Here's my 1910 moire gown. I'm still working on mending the shoulders where the silk has shattered. I had taken some pics of the inside but can't find them right now!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/85469550@N00/sets/72157600477985977/

I know and understand how they're constructed. Finding modern fabrics and notions can sometimes be the challenge for these projects! (and I live in a small town, closest fabric shop is 45min!)

Here's the waist, I plan to display it with the train I make for the shame dress and take some photos one day. It is the most dreamy velvet ever. I would've loved to have seen what it looked like in it's day. http://www.flickr.com/photos/85469550@N00/sets/72157600477985873/
Nikki

 

[JupitersDarling]

I've been experimenting with scaling up vintage patterns, and chose McCall 6225 from 1945 because I loved the style. It was a size 14, so I had to scale up quite a bit to get the equivalent of a vintage size 20. Took some guesswork since the darts were pretty scary to work around.

I made a muslin (hence the ugly seams, modern belt, and unfinished hems) and I think I have the basic shape down (and know I need to add another inch or so circumference to the bottom sections), but the blousiness has me a bit concerned because the pattern shows it being a bit more streamlined. Do I need to raise the waist again and maybe take in some of the back a wee bit?

I am shortwaisted so I didn't add as much length in anticipation of that- not sure it was quite enough though... maybe the less streamlined shape is just a function of being shortwaisted (unlike the pattern models!), but I thought this would be a good place to ask about keeping period silhouettes when pattern grading. Thoughts?

side view
front
back

 

[KittyT]

tips for sewing jersey?

Well, I'd like to keep improving my sewing skills and making things for myself. I've decided I should try a dress, but a very easy one that doesn't require a zipper, setting sleeves, or much fitting. I've decided to try to make myself a house dress, something cute but comfy for around the house. I think I'll try the one shown on the bottom right here. If that goes well, I'll try making another one with the short set-in sleeves (on the top right).

Here's my dilemma.... the fabrics recommended are crepe back satin, crepe de chine, gauze, voile, georgette, sheer fabrics, jerseys and lightweight linens and linen blends. Satin, crepe de chine and georgette are too nice, I don't want gauze or voile, and linen is probably too nice and/or expensive for a house dress. Jersey is the most appropriate fabric, but I've heard that it's a pain to sew. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for sewing jersey? Or is it just not recommended for a beginner?

 

[Lady Day]

Jersey is a knit, not a weave, so generally you are gonna want to sew it with a zig zag stitch, so the seams keep some of their stretch. Practice on some jersey with zz stitches of different lengths to see what you like.

Of course there is a stretch straight stitch that looks like this
---
---
---
on a lot of modern sewing machines. Ive used it with very little success.

Personally Id go for a linen/cotton blend. mmmm


LD

 

[KittyT]

Jersey is a knit, not a weave, so generally you are gonna want to sew it with a zig zag stitch, so the seams keep some of their stretch. Practice on some jersey with zz stitches of different lengths to see what you like.

Of course there is a stretch straight stitch that looks like this
---
---
---
on a lot of modern sewing machines. Ive used it with very little success.

Personally Id go for a linen/cotton blend. mmmm

Many thanks for your advice, Lady Day. It's much appreciated!

 

[anabolina]

I don't know if this is posted elsewhere, but patternreview.com is hosting a contest that starts tommorow for sewing vintage clothes. Here's a link to the discussion
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?t=23967

 

[Nashoba]

Kitty also make sure that you have the right needle if you use jersey. Alot of the problems I've had were due not necessarily to the fabric but to the needle and thread that I was using. I've personally found that if I use a needle in my machine meant for sewing knits, it goes a lot better.

 

[pigeon toe]

Okay ladies, I have a question for you!

I'm VERY short-waisted (I swear, I look like I grew from my legs and not from my middle). Along my side, from the lowest rib I can feel to the top of my hip bone, I've only got about 2 inches! I've had to get a lot of vintage dresses altered for me, pretty much every one I have except for the one's that have "Misses" or "Youth" in the tag.

I'm hoping to start sewing from patterns really soon, but I'm wondering how difficult altering a pattern for my short waist will be. How can I do that? Is there a tutorial online perhaps?

Oh, the joys of being petite!

 

[Lady Day]

Most dress patterns are in two sections, a top (boddice), and the skirt. They are sewn lastly together at the waist. I think its for the reason you stated, so it can be easily adjusted. Just make sure you taper the bottom of the blouse part when you alter its length and you should be right as rain.

Its dress patterns with princess seams (that continue all the way to the skirt) that you would have a conniption over)

Good luck PT.

LD

 

[Lady Day]

Check out this thread.

Tons of pics on patterns. Im a big gal too, and I just dart the front sides of a blouse to give room for the girls.

Good luck!

LD

PS *Im gonna merge this with the sewing FAQ, its a good fit

 

[Elaina]

I tend to use McCall's 5145, basic princess seam shirt. It's the nicest one out there when finished and comes with bust sizes already altered. You can mix and match other patterns for the sleeves you want, because that one is sleeveless/long sleeved, and most of the ones I've made have been short sleeved. This one also has a straight hem that is often untucked, altough I don't worry about it one way or the other too much.

The styling is slightly more modern then the one's I have seen from the 1930-50's (like this one has a collar band, isn't as blousy as the ones from the 50's nor as tight as the earlier ones) but it looks neat in the end.

I don't really like darted shirts. I own several, but for me, if I'm going to go to all that trouble, I'd rather make princess seams.

 

[kamikat]

Why was my post moved here? I was looking for pictures of blouses, not sewing help. I just need to see what a typical WWII blouse looks like so I can make style changes to my current sloper.

 

[pretty faythe]

Fixing the bra in a swimsuit

I need advice in fixing the existing bra in a swimsuit I bought. It's a new suit, not a vintage one, that I just bought at Wal-Mart, and swimsuits just really don't offer much bust support. What are some good ways to help add lift? Suggestions very much appreciated, and quickly. Going on a boating trip tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[Lady Day]

Why was my post moved here? I was looking for pictures of blouses, not sewing help. I just need to see what a typical WWII blouse looks like so I can make style changes to my current sloper.

D'oh! I meant to put it in the vintage patterns thread. My bad.

LD

 

[anabolina]

I know this must be posted elsewhere, but I did a forum search and couldn't find it. I want to make a knee length crinoline to poof out my skirts a bit. Is there any patterns from the Big 4 that do this? Does anyone have a favorite pattern for one? Would it be heard to do without a pattern? I have some netting I picked up from a thrift store for $.25 and I'm thinking I could sew it to a current half slip or something like that, I'm just not sure of the best way to do it.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[olive bleu]

HELP!!!

ok, i have made a boo-boo.I have finished the above dress, except for hemming, and very foolishly (due to leaving this project till the last minute)neglected to extend the bodice for my long waist.Some patterns are fine with where the waist falls, but some i have to adjust.Anyway,when i tried it on and tied the shoulder ties high up as they should be,the waistline is about 3 inches higher than my natural waist.If i tie them lower , to pull the waistline down where it should be,the armholes are too low down and the front of the bodice doesn't sit flat like it should.I'm in a pickle.I CAN wear it with the waistline high, and with the belt it doesn't look really awful, but it does make me look like my waist is thicker than it already is . .I have to wear it when i go out of town for the weekend, so i may leave it for now, but i would like to correct it somehow eventually if i can...any ideas?

 

[Lady Day]

Ive had the same problem. Just remake the bodice. Other than that, you can add a band around the middle, but that too involves taking the bodice off and adding fabric. Plus you will get a lame band.

LD