Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Joie DeVive]

Is there any patterns from the Big 4 that do this? Does anyone have a favorite pattern for one? Would it be heard to do without a pattern? I have some netting I picked up from a thrift store for $.25 and I'm thinking I could sew it to a current half slip or something like that, I'm just not sure of the best way to do it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Good deal on the net!! I think you need a lot of it to make a crinoline though...

I believe Simplicity made the pattern I have. I have not yet used it, so I don't know how user friendly it is. It should be in either the Formal, the Underwear or the Costume section of the pattern book.

I would think that it would be quite possible to create one by attaching the netting to part of a half slip. The one I bought online has construction that looks similar to that. Just remember that you will need to finish the edge of the netting or it will snag your stockings. Ribbon binding (folding ribbon over the edge and stitching in place) is a common finish for netting on crinolines.

I hope that was some help!!

 

[olive bleu]

Ive had the same problem. Just remake the bodice. Other than that, you can add a band around the middle, but that too involves taking the bodice off and adding fabric. Plus you will get a lame band.

LD

Yeah, i think you're right that i need to remake the bodice.I was tempted to make a band, but i agree, it would look lame and not how i really want it to look in the long run.better to fix it properly and enjoy it for years to come.That will have to wait untill i return form vacation next week.I usually have plenty of fabric left over, but some how this time I don't..so i will have to go out and buy more.But i think i will take it with me and wear it to dinner once.

 

[KittyT]

buttonhole tips?

Do any of you sewing mavens have tips for doing buttonholes? I'm planning on making my first dress requiring buttonholes and am wondering about things I should do or things I should look out for... for example, I've read in some places that it's a good idea to add interfacing on the inside of the fabric where the buttonholes will be placed ?

 

[Lady Day]

Make sure the fabric you are apply to the holes has facing. Practice on scrap, and my formula for manual holes is; left side/ bottom stop/rightsite/ top stop.

The whole prossess (pun intended ) is not as scarry is it makes itself out to be.

Also if your machine has one of those fancy button hole feet, use that. It does make a nice clean button hole.

Good luck!

LD

 

[KittyT]

Make sure the fabric you are apply to the holes has facing. Practice on scrap, and my formula for manual holes is; left side/ bottom stop/rightsite/ top stop.

The pattern calls for a buttonhole in a single layer of fabric. So I should add a facing so that the buttonhole is going through 2 layers? Sorry, I'm kindof retarded when it comes to sewing (but I'm working on it!)

Thanks for your tips.

 

[$ally]

The pattern calls for a buttonhole in a single layer of fabric. So I should add a facing so that the buttonhole is going through 2 layers? Sorry, I'm kindof retarded when it comes to sewing (but I'm working on it!)Thanks for your tips.

I always use interfacing on button holes to reinforce the placket and give some strength, so it won't be weak and puckered.
I just bought a new machine with an auto button-holer. I put the button I will use on the foot, which adjusts to do the entire thing on it's own. So much faster and easier. It makes me feel lazy though

 

[Josephine]

Yeah, i think you're right that i need to remake the bodice.I was tempted to make a band, but i agree, it would look lame and not how i really want it to look in the long run.

I don't know if you've completed the new bodice, but could you add a band that had a little "tail" on the front to it that a buckle could be put on to make it look like it's a belt? Even in a complementary color (like the tie or the bands at the top) since you don't have anymore of the dress material. You could perhaps attach the bodice a little low on the band to make it look more like a belt that lays on top of the bodice and not a part of it.

 

[ssubialdea]

sewing dilemma

I picked up a dress this weekend, classic shirtwaist style w/ short sleeves and an a line skirt (more of a housedress style) Its too big for me but I couldn't pass it up because the fabric and trimmings are just great. What would be the best way to take it in with out cutting the fabric? I'd like to have it to where i can let it out later if I get larger or pass it on to someone else. I originally thought that taking it in from the sides would work but it has decorative pockets that would interfere. Any suggestions? I can post pics to explain this better.

 

[$ally]

Okay ladies, I have a question for you!I'm VERY short-waisted (I swear, I look like I grew from my legs and not from my middle). Along my side, from the lowest rib I can feel to the top of my hip bone, I've only got about 2 inches! I've had to get a lot of vintage dresses altered for me, pretty much every one I have except for the one's that have "Misses" or "Youth" in the tag.
I'm hoping to start sewing from patterns really soon, but I'm wondering how difficult altering a pattern for my short waist will be. How can I do that? Is there a tutorial online perhaps?
Oh, the joys of being petite!

I am also short waisted from rib to hip, and longer in the legs. Most gals are short in their entire torso down to the upper thigh, so we are unique! Modern patterns have a place on the pattern to shorten at the waist. The same thing can be done on vintage. For the princess seams LD mentioned, I just begin to flare it out a little higher.

 

[$ally]

I picked up a dress this weekend, classic shirtwaist style w/ short sleeves and an a line skirt (more of a housedress style) Its too big for me but I couldn't pass it up because the fabric and trimmings are just great. What would be the best way to take it in with out cutting the fabric? I'd like to have it to where i can let it out later if I get larger or pass it on to someone else. I originally thought that taking it in from the sides would work but it has decorative pockets that would interfere. Any suggestions? I can post pics to explain this better.

Which areas need to be taken in? Can you make deeper seams at the shoulders? Sometimes front waist darts and a few tucks can keep it in place, but the armholes are pretty tricky, that requires a gusset.

example

 

[$ally]

So I was over at my mom's yesterday doing the birthday thing for my sister and I mention to my mom about sewing machine shopping. Well my aunt says "I have a sewing machine I'm not using. Do you want it?" So I got my first sewing machine. It's brand new. Yesterday I practiced sewing straight lines and sewed some ribbon edges so they wouldn't fray. Today I mended some seams. Yay!

SWEET DEAL, Miss Pink! I can't wait to see all your cute outfits.
The Viking store has machines on sale right now. I got one in the $100 range -- unheard of! A friend of mine had just paid $500+ for hers.

 

[$ally]

LOL , you get a form & a reprieve from waxing!
Seriously, I forget where I first saw this, but there are several sites showing gals who made a duct tape form.
Heres another link showing most of the process
http://www.europa.com/~qzanny/DuctTapeForm/DuctTapeForm.html

How did I miss this post before? That's perfect for maternity wear?

 

[$ally]

How often do you change the needle?
I recently had problem with my sewing machine with the thread and stitches and the reason probably was an old wrong dull needle and not the fabric or the thread.
I was told the average lifespann for a needle is about 10 hours (sewingtime).
I was also told to stay away from cheap needles I had bought in the supermarket once when I run out from the better ones belonging to my machine they simple was too long for my machine this I could not see but the machine repair guy could.
Well I was suprised to learn all this. I did know I should use different needles for different fabrics etc. but not how important it was to change the needle so often as they suggest you do. Every time you start a new dress a new needle should be used. Well I only wanted to share this because it was new information for me. I found this information. http://sew-whats-new.com/CMS/content/view/189/46/

This was already answered well, but I'd like to add a few things, if I may?
If you're using new fabrics instead of vintage, I suggest changing out your needles every 8 hours. The dyes, sizing, chemicals used now really gunk it up.
If you see a lot of fuzz and dust in your machine, it could be from fraying vintage or cheap thread. Check your thread for nubs that could be stripping off into your bobbin area and elsewhere. Most fuzz strips off while the thread slides through the eye of the needle. Unless stored very well, thread becomes fragile after about 5 years.
If you stitches skip or the fabric grabs, you are probably using the wrong size needle. My suggestions for size to fabric below
sharps: sheers, to avoid pulls
60/8: delicate/ fine
70/10: for lt weight/ gauze
*80/12: is the usual everyday needle I use for average weight fabric
90/14: medium
100/16: heavy
110/18: super heavy
special jeans needle: beyond heavy, canvas, denim, tight weave, rubber-backed (such as a boat cover)

 

[imoldfashioned]

I made a duct tape double before I got my dress form; it worked pretty well but having the thing cut off is a little harrowing--get someone you trust to do it!

Instructions can be found here:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002_p2.asp

 

[MissHuff]

It was pretty funny when I made my duct tape double with my S.O. I couldn't really move and hold on to anything when he was cutting me out so I was leaned over onto the couch to be cut free. Quite an interesting scene to walk into.

If anyone is thinking of making one also think about making a fabric (something stretchy) cover to put over your double because sticking pins into duct tape is a sticky mess.

 

[ssubialdea]

thanks Sally, actually the armholes / shoulders were fine, it was just too large on the rest of the body, especially in the waist. I gave it another look last night and decided it was probably homemade (waist darts were not spaced evenly and theres a wiggle-y seam or two) Anyways I finally decided to try a large dart in the back, from the top of the neck to the end of the skirt, with the waist being taken in the most. This worked just fine and I think if I need to let it out in the future it should be a snap. I love when things work out on the first try!

 

[Snookie]

The pattern calls for a buttonhole in a single layer of fabric. So I should add a facing so that the buttonhole is going through 2 layers? Sorry, I'm kindof retarded when it comes to sewing (but I'm working on it!)

Thanks for your tips.

Get some tear-away stabilizer. You can even use it in multiple layers, and then rip it away from your garment. I use it on rayon blouses, because I don't want any stiffness from interfacing. It'll be in the notions department, with the velcro and shoulder pads.

And like LD says, make sure you practice first!

 

[Ada Veen]

I am also short waisted from rib to hip, and longer in the legs. Most gals are short in their entire torso down to the upper thigh, so we are unique! Modern patterns have a place on the pattern to shorten at the waist. The same thing can be done on vintage. For the princess seams LD mentioned, I just begin to flare it out a little higher.

I have some 50s patterns and they have the shortening/lengthening option too.

 

[$ally]

I forgot who posted about Sept issue of Threads, but thank you. It's their best yet, the most helpful edition for me anyway.

Here's my dilemma.... the fabrics recommended are crepe back satin, crepe de chine, gauze, voile, georgette, sheer fabrics, jerseys and lightweight linens and linen blends. Satin, crepe de chine and georgette are too nice, I don't want gauze or voile, and linen is probably too nice and/or expensive for a house dress. Jersey is the most appropriate fabric, but I've heard that it's a pain to sew. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for sewing jersey? Or is it just not recommended for a beginner?

Besides, the zig-zag that LD mentioned, most new machines have a setting for a stretch stitch that won't tear like a regular straight stitch, but looks like a regular thin straight stitch. It just goes forward-and-back like a tie off, instead of side-to-side like a zig. If you've done a straight stitch on stretchy fabric you know that as soon as you pull on it, you'll hear that dreaded 'rrrrip'. I agree with you, jersey would be comfortable, affordable and good practice.

I have some 50s patterns and they have the shortening/lengthening option too.

That's handy! I wish mine did. Most of mine are earlier though.

Miss Pink, I'm sorry about your machine issue. I may end up with a couple extra machines soon. If I do I'll give you one, OK? I had a Brother and didn't like it. Mine was flimsy and constantly needed adjustments, but I know people who adore theirs, so it's a matter of opinion. It sounds like you used the check list I used:

1. is it threaded properly? check
2. bobbin installed properly? (thread should be in the direction of a "P") check
3. needle inserted properly? check
4. tension balanced? (loops on top= bobbin too tight, loops on bottom= bobbin to loose) check
5. is anything knocked out of whack? not that I could tell
6. take it to the shop and get reamed. ouch

I think I'll try the duct tape fitting form today. I just have to buy a T-shirt to ruin from Savers. Thanks to everyone who posted about that.

I love to read everyone's tips; from just starting, self-taught, mom-taught, apprenticeship, certified, to college degree, doesn't matter. The best seamstresses and tailors I’ve met figured it out themselves before going on to get formal training. No matter how "advanced" we can all still learn from each other. Everyone comes up with their own little tricks along the way. Necessity is the mother of invention. I’m not sure who the father is.

====

 

[Josephine]

I'm hemming a skirt for the first time soon, and it says to let it hang for 24 hours so the bias can relax or the like (I get that part). But once it does relax, what's the best way for me to get an even hem? Will the skit be "droopy" in parts that I will have to take more up?