Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[hotrod_elf]

Hotrod Elf: What parts did you line on the jacket?[/QUOTE]

I lined everything but the yoke, ( it had a facing piece).

I ended up sewing the sleeves of the lining in separet. They are sowed to the sleeves of the jacket. I made up the lining as I went..... Cutting the fabric from the orginal pattern then changed them just a little. I'm pretty happy. I will wear it in public.

 

[ShortClara]

I whipped up BUTTERICK Pattern 4513 RETRO '57 this weekend. I got size 14 for the 36 inch bust and now have a dress 3-4 sizes too big for me. I can take it in, but my question is this. Does anyone have any idea what size I should be buying in modern patterns for 36-26-37? Also, are vintage patterns more true to actual measurements - if it says 36 is it really?

Thanks!

 

[Lady Day]

It depends on the cut and how the fit was of the time.

50 should be form fitting, 40s was a but more boxy. The 'Retro' line of patterns are sized for modern measurements, but if you go by bust/waist/hip, you should come out with a pretty good outcome. I think older patterns, or reissues without the revamp in pattern design, will be as acurate you can get of the fit of the time.

Sorry to hear about your sizing situation

LD

 

[GoldLeaf]

Pattern sizing is strange. I wear a pretty standard size 10 in off the rack clothing. When making clothing from a pattern, I go by the measurements on the package. I am a 16 or 18 in the bust, a 14 in the waist, and something else strange in the hips. If I make a 18 dress, the waist would be huge. I usually end up trying to figure out how to tailor the darn thing.

 

[ShortClara]

Hmmm - I got a 36 bust which should have fit there at least but it's much too big. Well, I guess I'll start measuring the pieces - but now I don't know what size to buy to really get a 36 bust. This butterick was an over the head design (very easy) so I was hesitant to lose to many inches in the making because I wanted it to go over the head and not end up too small to put on. I may just say pfft to the design, chop 8 inches out of the back and make it button down the back

 

[RedHotRidinHood]

Buttericks (new ones) always run large on me too-and they tend to be long waisted. I have weird measurements too:34-28-41, which makes me very nervous about wiggle dress making.
I think your idea about making it button up the back sounds good! Picture?

 

[ShortClara]

Buttericks (new ones) always run large on me too-and they tend to be long waisted. I have weird measurements too:34-28-41, which makes me very nervous about wiggle dress making.
I think your idea about making it button up the back sounds good! Picture?

Thanks! And pics when I finish hee!

 

[ASimpleLady]

I have a simple problem. My waist and hips are so similar in size it's going to be difficult. ( Although I'm working on it, running every day to get my waist to be a waist!) My husband's friend came through on a sewing machine for me so now I'm looking into finding some patterns. Any ideas where I can find some?

 

[ShortClara]

A good way to pretend there's a larger difference between the waist and the hips might be to go for a 50s style dress, with a poofy skirt that pops out from the waist, thereby making it look smaller in comparison to the hips. Make sure you have a proper bra to hoist up "the girls" to make a waist, too. You have to create three separate parts visually, bust, waist, hips, even if they aren't all what you want them to be yet. I know many ladies here also use spanx (sp?) and shapers to help create this effect as well.

 

[Joie DeVive]

I'm looking into finding some patterns. Any ideas where I can find some?

Where to look depends on what you are looking for.

If you have never sewn by machine before, you might be happier with a modern pattern. New ones tend to offer more directions than the vintage counterparts. In the past, the maker assumed you knew how to sew already. Never fear however, a few of the big name brands offer reprints now, Simplicity, Butterick and Vogue amongst them. For these, try your local fabric store. I recommend waiting until the store has a sale to buy, however. Periodically most chain shops (Joann's/Hancock) offer patterns on sale for $1-5 each. Regular price those babies can run $15-40.

If the actual vintage pattern is what you seek, ebay offers the best selection. Garage, estate sales, flea markets and antique shops often have better prices, but not as much selection, particularly if you want to buy in your own size. Prices vary on these as well. I have spent as little as a dollar a piece and as much as $25 for one of my favorites. As the other ladies here can attest, that isn't the highest price that they can sell for either. Just decided what you can afford to pay before bidding if you go the ebay route. It's easy to get pulled in and overbid.

Good luck!!

 

[ASimpleLady]

Well I just got my machine and it's very very very old but of course still works. I've taken a beginning sewing class last fall and I'm going to start with a pillow.

Oh I need some bras desperately! I'm between a 36DDD and a 38DD. Depending on bras and of course I am much smaller around than a 38 and a 36 sometimes you'd have to go up to DDDD to get the right cup size. *Sigh*

 

[peachy keen]

Grading patterns

I have been searching all vintage patterns on ebay because I hope to someday start my own store selling strictly 40's/50's clothing. I don't have much sewing experience yet (I've only made a pair of pj pants ) but I know it's what I want to do. I wanted to start by making a dress that I could wear, but pretty much all the patterns I liked were not my size So, I went ahead and bought some of them anyways, figuring that I might be able to find a website that could explain how to resize them or simply lose some weight (neither of which seem to be happening, atleast not anytime soon ). I thought maybe some of you ladies might have some suggestions, I would really appreciate it!

 

[shebagrl]

Hi Peachy! I wish I knew myself...I have a few really lovely patterns and I'm too afraid to get started because I just know they aren't going to fit (don't I wish I were about 7 inches taller)!

Try these links, hope they help!

http://www.http://www.momspatterns.com/linksmomspatterns.com
http://designloft.blogspot.com/2007/06/resizing-vintage-patterns.html
http://www.squidoo.com/misshelenes/

Good luck! Sounds like such a great idea

 

[Lady Day]

Grading patterns is tricky. As far as I can tell there is no real formula or science to it. You just make adjustments where needed and do a mock up. Its a lot of trial and error. Ill merge this with the sewing FAQ thread. They may be a lot of info in there as well.

LD

 

[peachy keen]

Very helpful!

Thanks for the suggestions! Oh and I'm really happy with those links, I think they are gonna help I'm also gonna keep searching through this thread to get even more ideas. Once I finally try it out, I'll be sure to post pictures of the result(s)--(depending on how many times it'll take to get it right)

 

[kamikat]

Grading patterns is tricky. As far as I can tell there is no real formula or science to it. You just make adjustments where needed and do a mock up. Its a lot of trial and error. Ill merge this with the sewing FAQ thread. They may be a lot of info in there as well.

LD

Actually, there is a formula that is used in the industry. I took a week long class in pattern drafting and grading for wholesale/retail distribution. The problem is that the formula gives you a standard graded pattern, not a pattern that fits you. There are useful bits of info, like each size equals 1/2in at the side seams, but 1/8 in at the armscye (armhole) ect, but it is only a guideline for making a pattern fit you. The best way to start grading a pattern is to get a ton of $1 per yard fabric, trace your pattern, add some to the seams and pin fit. A good thing to keep in mind is that for every 1/4" you add to your side seams equals 1" added to the total measurment.

 

[Grnidwitch]

A good way to pretend there's a larger difference between the waist and the hips might be to go for a 50s style dress, with a poofy skirt that pops out from the waist, thereby making it look smaller in comparison to the hips. Make sure you have a proper bra to hoist up "the girls" to make a waist, too. You have to create three separate parts visually, bust, waist, hips, even if they aren't all what you want them to be yet. I know many ladies here also use spanx (sp?) and shapers to help create this effect as well.

Jackets and such with shoulder pads will work too. Think Joan Crawford without the steroids. Just enhance your shoulders. That will balance your hips more.

 

[dakotanorth]

Sizing and resizing

I have to admit, I really haven't done any women's clothing beyond full-cut pants, BUT I've been reading up on this subject. "All Theory, no Practice" for now.
I have "Der Goldene Schnitte" book, and it looks like you can customize the use of the templates. If you wear a 14 in the hips, but a 10 in the waist, you mark off the critical points and then "Blend" between the two. It is an artform with a science driving it. Don't forget to use a french curve!
I would think you can use this same approach with a pre-sized pattern. Set the critical points, transition between them.

I have to add though, I strongly recommend resizing a COPY of the pattern. If you are new to this, don't risk ruining a hard-to-find original!!
Incidentally, has anyone tried making a copy with a large plotter, say, at Kinko's? If the pattern is printed it should pick it up.

 

[dakotanorth]

Late post, re: fabric stores

Did anyone else out there buy from DenverFabrics.com? They actually had some 100% rayon gabardine. You have to check the weight per sq yd, because some of them are a bit sheer, but for roughly $4.98 a yard they are/were pretty nice.
I say "were" because they are selling the store and thereby liquidating everything.
I'm still tempted to grab a few yards of the lavender gabardine... It could make a nice rock n roll shirt.

 

[DimeADanceQueen]

What?!

Did anyone else out there buy from DenverFabrics.com?
I say "were" because they are selling the store and thereby liquidating everything.
I'm still tempted to grab a few yards of the lavender gabardine... It could make a nice rock n roll shirt.

; ( NO!! Not good.. Blast..

oh, and on the similar line to your topic above, take a gander at http://www.vintagesewing.info