Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Joie DeVive]

I just picked up the Better Homes and Gardens Sewing Book copyright 1961 at a local church rummage sale (50 cents!!) and it suggested that if you take a very basic pattern and do as Miss 1929 suggests and create a muslin, that you can figure out a master list of alterations to make to every pattern before you begin.

The thinking goes like this; all pattern companies use the same master pattern or "sloper" for a particular size. Once you know what alterations you need to make in your size, you will know what alterations you need to make on any pattern of the same size. Imagine knowing out of the envelope what alterations you will need to make and making them before you even start! According to the book you only need to make changes to your master list if you gain or lose weight or if you use a different size pattern.
**Note that when pattern companies change sizes (for example bust measurement 36" is now a 14, but in the past it has been 16 and even 18!) it may change your master list of alterations as the sloper may be different.**

I thought it sounded pretty clever myself.

 

[LelaViavonie]

Probably the easiest way is to make a paper copy of your pattern (never do this with your only copy), take each piece and hold it up to you and check the length on each piece first - if length is OK go on to the width.
If it needs lengthening, cut cross the pattern piece horizontally in a place where it will not run into any structural stuff like darts, gathers, etc, spread, and tape on a piece of paper to fill the gap. If it needs shortening, slash and overlap. Very important to stay away from any markings, darts etc., and try not to do this so it intersects with the armhole.
So much for length. Now for width.
Same story, but because of the multiple curves of the body, each piece should be slashed and spread in more than one place - about a third in from each side.
Then, use this paper copy to make a muslin, baste and try on. It will still need adjusting, so probably you will want to fit and mark the muslin, use it to make another paper copy, and then make another muslin, fit, use for pattern, before attempting it on your ($) real fabric.
I had to do the reverse to take my blue suit pattern down two sizes, and it took a few weeks. So it is always better to start with a pattern in your own size - even that will need adjusting to be a perfect fit unless you're perfectly proportioned, which few people are.

Miss 1929 and Joie Devive.. I LOVE U!
Thank you soo much.. I had to read it twice for the lightbulb to go off.. but I think I got it!
I am going to print out your directions and try it out on a pattern tonight.. crossing my fingers i dont pin myself! LOL

Joie Devive.. that book sounds like a wonderful thing to have.. i am going to have to hunt for some good material to read!
Soo Clever!!!

Thank You Thank you!

 

[LelaViavonie]

I am about to as a REALLY silly question.. but what BETTER group of ladies to ask then all of U!

WHat is a Yoke?
In sewing terms of course!

Sorry for the foolish question.. but im still learning how to read patterns.. and am not familiar with all the terms yet **blushes**

 

[LizzieMaine]

A yoke is simply an insert piece that makes up the shoulders of a garment -- in Marie's blouse, the yoke is the animal-print part. It can be cut in one with cap sleeves, as in this blouse, or the sleeves can be added seperately. Depending on the pattern and your preference, it can either be in a contrasting fabric or the same fabric as the rest of the garment.

Yokes go in and out of fashion over the decades -- they were quite popular in the early forties, for example, as a way of adding interesting detail to otherwise simple day dresses.

 

[MarieAnne]

Here is a picture of the shirt I made my husband. These western shirts all have yokes. The guy on the front is wearing a shirt with a plaid yoke. The shirt I made has a yoke and a lower bodice segment which come together to make a complete bodice piece. But the western shirt has a complete front bodice panel and the yoke is just sewn on top like an applique. I thought that was a lot easier.

 

[LelaViavonie]

A yoke is simply an insert piece that makes up the shoulders of a garment -- in Marie's blouse, the yoke is the animal-print part. It can be cut in one with cap sleeves, as in this blouse, or the sleeves can be added seperately. Depending on the pattern and your preference, it can either be in a contrasting fabric or the same fabric as the rest of the garment.

Yokes go in and out of fashion over the decades -- they were quite popular in the early forties, for example, as a way of adding interesting detail to otherwise simple day dresses.

Thank you LizzieMaine.. I understand now.. it all makes sense!

 

[LelaViavonie]

Here is a picture of the shirt I made my husband. These western shirts all have yokes. The guy on the front is wearing a shirt with a plaid yoke. The shirt I made has a yoke and a lower bodice segment which come together to make a complete bodice piece. But the western shirt has a complete front bodice panel and the yoke is just sewn on top like an applique. I thought that was a lot easier.

That is a great pattern!
Wish I could get my hubbster in a western... Good Luck!.. LOL

 

[Josephine]

WHat is a Yoke?
In sewing terms of course!

A yoke can also be on a skirt- it's like a waistband, but on the hips. You can see a good example here with this Butterick pattern.

 

[kamikat]

From http://www.sewmuchmoreinfo.com/Sewopaedia.html

Yoke: The part of a garment that is fitted at the shoulders and neck area or at the hip where often a gathered fabric section hangs from it.

 

[LelaViavonie]

KimKat and Josephine
THank U so much for the information... I love the site!

I will be using that on a daily bases
Thank u ladies

 

[Snookie]

To get it right, one must be willing to invest some serious time into each garment....ugh. I am finding that I *must* make a muslin for each piece I am working on or else I end up wasting precious fabric. However, after doing so, the rewards are very great.

If you use the same pattern repeatedly, the rewards of making a muslin multiply ten-fold! When I'm in the mood to "whip something up" (not that I EVER sew quickly, I'm a snail!), I turn to a tried-and-true pattern so that I can skip the first fitting. Plus, I've started taking notes when I sew and keeping them with the pattern - it helps me remember how to get through tricky parts, or if I've adjusted the pattern slightly - completely worth the 5 extra minutes!

I've made some stuff recently, but don't have any pictures! I made a pair of Rosie the Riveter overalls with this EvaDress pattern and some linen/cotton fabric, and a playsuit-inspired outfit with the Carmen Miranda top from this pattern (changed the sleeves to butterfly sleeves cause they were too tight) and this skirt. I highly recommend the skirt pattern, it was very easy and turned out fab! I don't have any pictures, but there's a clip of me in it - I'm wearing Turquoise/Blue and my husband's wearing a tux. (sorry, no sound!). Camp Hollywood Trying to figure out how to make it into to Halloween costume so that I can wear it again...

 

[kamikat]

I don't have any pictures, but there's a clip of me in it - I'm wearing Turquoise/Blue and my husband's wearing a tux. (sorry, no sound!). Camp Hollywood Trying to figure out how to make it into to Halloween costume so that I can wear it again...

Cute outfit, but WOW, you guys are awesome! How did you do in the contest?

 

[Snookie]

Cute outfit, but WOW, you guys are awesome! How did you do in the contest?

We actually won, thank you for the compliment! And I'm super embarrassed, I thought I was posting in "Show us what you made", I think I was reading too many things too quickly!! Sorry about that...

 

[Mary]

I've planned to take a sewing class for ages and today I was quite surprised when I realized it starts next monday. I need to buy patterns and quick!

I want to make early 30's clothes (especially from 1932 I think). I've looked at evadress and vintage pattern lending library. Are there any other good sites I should look at for patterns?

I knew there's a site called Denverfabrics with fabrics for a low cost. Are there any other good sites for fabrics?

It's going to be so much fun!

 

[LelaViavonie]

Snookie! I loved your video! Congrats on winning!

 

[Miss 1929]

Decades of Style

I've planned to take a sewing class for ages and today I was quite surprised when I realized it starts next monday. I need to buy patterns and quick!

I want to make early 30's clothes (especially from 1932 I think). I've looked at evadress and vintage pattern lending library. Are there any other good sites I should look at for patterns?

I knew there's a site called Denverfabrics with fabrics for a low cost. Are there any other good sites for fabrics?

It's going to be so much fun!

Has very cool repro patterns!

www.decadesofstyle.com

I have this one but haven't made it yet. I plan to make it in black and beige satin first.

 

[Sunny]

I've made some stuff recently, but don't have any pictures! I made a pair of Rosie the Riveter overalls with this EvaDress pattern and some linen/cotton fabric...

Ooh! How did those fit and go together? I've got that pattern and just am waiting for the time to try it. I'm an experienced seamstress, but I've never fit trousers before. Any tips would be great!

 

[Mary]

Thanks Miss 1929!

Yet another great pattern site. There's so much to choose from![huh]

 

[kamikat]

ok, ladies, I'm trying to dip my toe into 40's styles again. I'm just not sure they work for me, though. This dress isn't complete (just pinned up the front, no cuffs, not hemmed, no contrast collar facing) and I don't think I will finish it. What would you suggest I change on the pattern next time to make it more flattering?

 

[JupitersDarling]

ok, ladies, I'm trying to dip my toe into 40's styles again. I'm just not sure they work for me, though. This dress isn't complete (just pinned up the front, no cuffs, not hemmed, no contrast collar facing) and I don't think I will finish it. What would you suggest I change on the pattern next time to make it more flattering?

The shoulders and sleeves seem to be a bit tight and (in the case of the shoulders) maybe also a bit too short in length (are those strain wrinkles?). The effect emphasizes the shoulder slope, which seems to be making your torso look rounder. I think you could extend the shoulders further out to get a better fit, take emphasis off the torso, and get a more classical 40's look. Also, unless my eyes deceive me, you're not wearing shoulder pads, so you probably should wear some to help pad out the slope!

here's a photoshooped pic as an example of how it might look.