Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Tourbillion]

Ugh! Well this morning I rang the local servicing place, and after speaking with a horrifically rude woman, for longer than was really necessary, I managed to get out of her that I’m looking at around £48 + VAT to have the beast serviced. I may as well buy a new one if it’s going to cost that much! There are some good deals I have found. I can’t see I’ll be too sad to see the beast go. I shouldn’t complain though, it was free!

A must for the new machine is easy buttonholes. That way I may actually try to make something with buttons & not just poppers & fake buttons lol


Thank you for the advice ladies

I think I mentioned it in this thread before, but I used to perform minor "tune up" services on sewing machines for a living.

Dolly, loops on the underside of the fabric is almost always too loose tension on the top thread. A loose bobbin looks like an S on the bottom.

You might be threading it incorrectly (i.e. missing the tension regulators) or maybe you just need to increase the tension. There is a chance that the tension disks are broken, but usually not.

Anyway, did you decide to kill the "beast"?

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Grading up... a lot

Thank you for your help Joie. I've tried that method before and it didn't work too well for me. Clearly I'm doing something wrong. I usually use the slide method which works well for a few sizes but I'm unsure about basically doubling the size of the pattern. I tried searching this board but perhaps I used the wrong terms. Well I will start reading from page 1 when I get a chance and in the meantime will re-investigate that slash method.

 

[zaika]

ironing the kinks out of old pattern tissue.

a good idea or no?

 

[Miss Neecerie]

ironing the kinks out of old pattern tissue.

a good idea or no?

very good idea...just be careful with the tip of the iron....no gouging....but the flat area.....works fine....

 

[Joie DeVive]

very good idea...just be careful with the tip of the iron....no gouging....but the flat area.....works fine....

And use a low temperature!!

 

[Lady Day]

Thank you for your help Joie. I've tried that method before and it didn't work too well for me. Clearly I'm doing something wrong. I usually use the slide method which works well for a few sizes but I'm unsure about basically doubling the size of the pattern. I tried searching this board but perhaps I used the wrong terms. Well I will start reading from page 1 when I get a chance and in the meantime will re-investigate that slash method.

If you are going from a vintage size 12 to a modern 24, you are not grading, but redrafting the pattern. EVERY measurement is going to have to be redone; from the arm holes to shoulder length to neck size, to torso length etc etc etc.

That is going to be a lot of trail and error, and really knowing YOUR measurements. This includes, across the back, torso length, circumference of your upper arm, front upper chest, etc etc etc. I find when grading patterns, those measurements are often secondary and women get ill fits because all they concentrate on is the adding of the bust.

First thing I suggest, be honest with you measurements, not what you think you are, or what you want yourself to be.

Second, Id suggest some sewing forum sites, as this can be remedied not just via vintage patterns, but also through modern techniques. See what those sites have to say. Im sure they have tons of info.

Third, mock up, mock up, and mock up again. Dont jump into a redrafting that is so extreme with your fantastic fabric after the second mock up. Hammer out ALL THE KINKS, so making the garment will be easier in the long run.


Good luck!

LD

 

[zaika]

miss n and joie, thanks!!

i wasn't sure if ironing it would ruin it. but i shall be so careful...very careful. irritatingly careful. lol

i wonder if i should put the tissue between anything? like cotton or something?

 

[Tourbillion]

I iron my patterns on a low iron setting, this is necessary to get the right fit, if it is wrinkled the pattern is distorted. I don't use any press cloth. They come out fine, but you need to make sure they don't get wet.

My iron can leak a drop of water now and again and that isn't good for them.

 

[Sickofitcindy]

If you are going from a vintage size 12 to a modern 24, you are not grading, but redrafting the pattern. EVERY measurement is going to have to be redone; from the arm holes to shoulder length to neck size, to torso length etc etc etc.

That is going to be a lot of trail and error, and really knowing YOUR measurements. This includes, across the back, torso length, circumference of your upper arm, front upper chest, etc etc etc. I find when grading patterns, those measurements are often secondary and women get ill fits because all they concentrate on is the adding of the bust.

First thing I suggest, be honest with you measurements, not what you think you are, or what you want yourself to be.

Second, Id suggest some sewing forum sites, as this can be remedied not just via vintage patterns, but also through modern techniques. See what those sites have to say. Im sure they have tons of info.

Third, mock up, mock up, and mock up again. Dont jump into a redrafting that is so extreme with your fantastic fabric after the second mock up. Hammer out ALL THE KINKS, so making the garment will be easier in the long run.


Good luck!

LD

Thank you Lady Day. I didn't even think about having to redraft the whole thing. I'm glad I posted this question before I started.

 

[Joie DeVive]

miss n and joie, thanks!!

i wasn't sure if ironing it would ruin it. but i shall be so careful...very careful. irritatingly careful. lol

i wonder if i should put the tissue between anything? like cotton or something?

You're welcome.

I'm with Tourbillion, I've never used a pressing cloth. Just low heat, very little gentle pressure, and keep the iron moving. Don't hold it in one spot. She's also right about avoiding water. I don't use the steam function for this.

 

[zaika]

tourbillion and joie - very good points. i'll be sure to at least dump the water (mine leaks something terrible).

 

[Snookie]

I think I need some opinions on this. I love this pattern, but from the mock-up, I think this may not look good on me.

The gathering seams at the hip and bust don't come around to the front enough, so all the gathering is concentrated at the sides and has a "widening" effect. Those diagonal wrinkles across the front section shows that there's not enough ease at the front. And the hip gathers seem too high on the form - make sure they start at the top of your hip, and not at your waist (I think that's what Miss 1929 meant, too).

I don't think the problem is the fabric, it's the fit of the pattern. If you want to make this, I'd try lengthening those gathering seams several inches and try to bring more of the fullness forward, and possibly lengthening the torso (dropping the hip).

It's a cute pattern, but I don't think I'd have the patience to fix it!

 

[Inky]

Interesting Article on Vintage Fabrics/Styles

I was researching wartime skirt lengths an happened to come across an interesting article on fabrics and styles with some nice images.

http://www.fabrics.net/joan1000.asp

also

http://www.fabrics.net/joan702.asp

I hope this can be of use

 

[SweetieStarr]

Sewing "dummy"

I have noticed some of you have "dummies" for your sewing. I think this is what they are called but please correct me if I have the wrong name. I am speaking of the fake body manequin on which one puts her sewing creations.

Is this necessary if one wants to sew garments for herself? I have found a couple sites where people have made their own dummies with duck tape - has anyone tried this? If so, how has it worked?

Thanks!

 

[Lady Day]

Dress forms (altho most women name theirs ) can be found in nearly every size under the sun.

I dont have one, alto at times I wish I did. Check back in this thread, some ladies posted some great info on making your own dress form from duct tape!

LD

 

[Inky]

I have noticed some of you have "dummies" for your sewing. I think this is what they are called but please correct me if I have the wrong name. I am speaking of the fake body manequin on which one puts her sewing creations.

Is this necessary if one wants to sew garments for herself? I have found a couple sites where people have made their own dummies with duck tape - has anyone tried this? If so, how has it worked?

Thanks!

Hi Sweetie,

I have sewn since I was a teenager (*cough* over 30 years) and only had a dressmakers dummy/mannequin for a brief time in the late 80s. It is helpful but not a requirement. The most important thing is in the measuring and knowing how to alter your patterns to fit. I get better results from making a muslin (or cheap fabric) mock up of any new pattern before I cut into my fabric. I usually only do the bodice but sometimes nearly the whole thing (not zippers and sleeves and facings usually). Then I can make adjustments that way.

That being said, I am thinking of making one using the paper tape method found here and here, mostly just because it'd be fun to have. You don't have to stuff it like a duct-tape dummy.

 

[Miss 1929]

I have noticed some of you have "dummies" for your sewing. I think this is what they are called but please correct me if I have the wrong name. I am speaking of the fake body manequin on which one puts her sewing creations.

Is this necessary if one wants to sew garments for herself? I have found a couple sites where people have made their own dummies with duck tape - has anyone tried this? If so, how has it worked?

Thanks!

I have a dress form that is far smaller than I am - it is handy for putting the garments on while pinning and basting, etc., but I have to do all the fitting on myself, which is often difficult (reaching the back of the shoulder especially!).

I plan to do the tape wrapping thing - have my hubby wrap me up, but instead of using the tape-wrap for a form itself, I am going to cut it up and make a pattern from it to make a nice canvas form.

And I would like to plug a really fantastic vintage sewing book - if you can find it out there, it will be worth any amount of money! It's called "Dress Design - Draping and Flat Pattern Drafting" and is aimed at intermediate to advanced sewers. It teaches you how to make the master pattern peices for your body, that you can then use to adapt to any style, and gives you many chapters on the styles of skits, bodices, collars, sleeves - and since it is from 1948, it has some wonderful styles to learn.
Also, it has an exhaustive tutorial on how to make your own dress form, with the pattern layout for the pieces of the form, and the exact measurements each of those has to be to create them in your size. Amazing.
Here's one tip that I though was an excellent idea - they recommend couching down a piece of stout cord down the center front and back, and at the syce (the chest around right at the bottom of the arm hole) bust, waist and hip - that way when pinning the fabric on the mannequin, you can feel the cord through your fabric and know you are on the right spot.

Dress Design - Draping and Flat Pattern Drafting
The authors are Marion S. Hillhouse and Evelyn A. Mansfield, it was published by Houghton Mifflin Co.

If I ever have time, I will copy some stuff from it and post it...

 

[Sickofitcindy]

I have noticed some of you have "dummies" for your sewing. I think this is what they are called but please correct me if I have the wrong name. I am speaking of the fake body manequin on which one puts her sewing creations.

Is this necessary if one wants to sew garments for herself? I have found a couple sites where people have made their own dummies with duck tape - has anyone tried this? If so, how has it worked?

Thanks!

You don't have to have a dress form but I love mine! It makes fitting so much easier for me. I don't have to sew, put on clothing, look in mirror, pin where things need to be altered, take off clothing, resew, etc. Plus I love it for how it makes hemming that much easier.

 

[Laura Chase]

I wasn't sure where to post this since it's a combination of questions, but here it goes. I got this dress (photographed very casually, sorry!):

First of all: Dating? The bias cut, and the gatherings at the chest make me think 30's. In the neck, it closes with some small buttons.

Second: See the big zipper? It must have been replaced later, it's plastic and I think it looks bad (it's not smooth) but I'm afraid of touching it. What should I do? What type of zipper can I safely replace it with? An invisible one? A close up of the zipper:

Third: I'm afraid to iron it, it's crepe but silky smooth, how should I iron it?

Fourth: What kind of shoes do you think would go good with this? I was thinking some silver shoes somewhat like these:

(The pic is from a comic called Lost Girls by Melinda Gebbie and Alan Moore, it's brilliant!)

How should I accessorize it?

 

[Miss 1929]

Late 30s to 40s

I wasn't sure where to post this since it's a combination of questions, but here it goes. I got this dress (photographed very casually, sorry!):

First of all: Dating? The bias cut, and the gatherings at the chest make me think 30's. In the neck, it closes with some small buttons.

Second: See the big zipper? It must have been replaced later, it's plastic and I think it looks bad (it's not smooth) but I'm afraid of touching it. What should I do? What type of zipper can I safely replace it with? An invisible one? A close up of the zipper:

Third: I'm afraid to iron it, it's crepe but silky smooth, how should I iron it?

Fourth: What kind of shoes do you think would go good with this? I was thinking some silver shoes somewhat like these:

(The pic is from a comic called Lost Girls by Melinda Gebbie and Alan Moore, it's brilliant!)

How should I accessorize it?

What a great dress, and your figure is wonderful!

I think the zipper may have been put in later, but seeing as it is clunky, it might be an old one. Either way, I would change it for either a lighter weight zipper (which will give a smoother fit as the dress is snug) or back to the original snaps with a hook and eye at the waist.

Do not iron it! You will make it shiny! Steam it instead - if you don't have one, you can get a little travel clothes steamer anywhere (although we all crave the big professional style steamers).

I think silver shoes aren't quite it - as there is no other silver going on on the dress, even though silver shoes are an essential item in any vintage wardrobe (or gold if you like gold). I would rather see black shoes with some sort of cutouts to echo the texture of the lace. Like the one on Miss 1940s in the Ladies of the Lounge thread in the Observation bar, close to the last page.

A little black purse, a gardenia in your hair, and pearls would look wonderful with the lace.

Gorgeous dress! What a score.