Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Laura Chase]

What a great dress, and your figure is wonderful!

I think the zipper may have been put in later, but seeing as it is clunky, it might be an old one. Either way, I would change it for either a lighter weight zipper (which will give a smoother fit as the dress is snug) or back to the original snaps with a hook and eye at the waist.

Do not iron it! You will make it shiny! Steam it instead - if you don't have one, you can get a little travel clothes steamer anywhere (although we all crave the big professional style steamers).

I think silver shoes aren't quite it - as there is no other silver going on on the dress, even though silver shoes are an essential item in any vintage wardrobe (or gold if you like gold). I would rather see black shoes with some sort of cutouts to echo the texture of the lace. Like the one on Miss 1940s in the Ladies of the Lounge thread in the Observation bar, close to the last page.

A little black purse, a gardenia in your hair, and pearls would look wonderful with the lace.

Gorgeous dress! What a score.

Oh, I'm happy you told me about ironing! I would have ironed it for sure... Thank you!

Did I forget to say that the dress itself isn't black but a really dark blue. That's why I don't fancy black shoes with it, but rather something light.

Good idea to get some shoes that echo the lace! Maybe even some cream ones, same color as the lace? Because I really want the lace to come forward and be visible. But I'm not sure if the type Miss 1940s is wearing would be good, they are very 40's, I'm thinking of something more 30's for this. But the cutouts on them are ace.

I can definitely see the pearls (a long string) and the gardenia. Soooo happy about this dress now that I've lost a little weight. But this is definitely a special occasion evening dress (for me, I bike so I need something practical for everyday) so I don't get to use it much.

 

[texasgirl]

I have a 30's dress with the hooks and snaps. Let me know if you want to go that route, I can try to take some close-ups. Gorgeous dress by the way

 

[Miss Neecerie]

Pity that Remix cant seem to be nice to you....otherwise they have new lacy shoes....a bit casual...but still

 

[Laura Chase]

Pity that Remix cant seem to be nice to you....otherwise they have new lacy shoes....a bit casual...but still

I might forgive them soon, if the shoes are pretty enough. lol
Are these the ones?:

I think they'd be nice... Hmmm, difficult to say without trying them on. Maybe too heavy/clunky? Even though they are gorgeous!

texasgirl, I would love to see your the hooks and snaps on your dress, if you get around to photographing it. But I won't be touching it anytime soon, so no hurry.

So you gals reckon it's 30's? I'm not good enough to date it precisely, but I know some ladies here would be able to guess on a precise year.

 

[Miss Neecerie]

yea...those were the ones I saw....

 

[BitterEpiphany]

I may cry!

I bought a new sewing machine - a Kenmore - from Sears. It's not a high model or high dollar machine by any means, but I figured it would do the job.

I know this isn't the sewing machines fault, but I want to throw it in Lake Michigan.

I don't know if it's the bobbin thread tension or the actual thread tension but I can't seem to get it working right. Everytime i sew a stich I'm left with a huge knot of thread on the underside (bottom/wrongside) of the fabric. So, surrounded by tiny cut threads and scrap fabrics, i'm begging for enlightenment!

because, referencing the photo that cannot be good.

 

[Josephine]

I don't know if it's the bobbin thread tension or the actual thread tension but I can't seem to get it working right. Everytime i sew a stich I'm left with a huge knot of thread on the underside (bottom/wrongside) of the fabric. So, surrounded by tiny cut threads and scrap fabrics, i'm begging for enlightenment!

If it's the bobbin thread that is tangling, it's the top tension that you need to adjust. Get a scrap piece of fabric and set the tension to 4, and then go up to 6, testing it at each setting.

 

[JupitersDarling]

bias skirts?

I'm starting on a SWAP (sewing with a plan) of sorts, and one of the pieces will be a skirt made out of printed rayon with the greatest print ever- black, periwinkle, fuschia colors, all cinderella-ish with pumpkins, coachmen, and ladies in rococo gowns! I'd like a bit of a 30s/40s vibe, and an actual waistband (not elastic). My dilemma is whether to make it a bias skirt or not.

The only bias skirt pattern I have is a 70s a-line one... same as this one. I'm not quite sure this is something that could pass as 30s/40s (though it might just be the tops obscuring the waistlines). I do have several 40s gored dress patterns I could modify into a 4,6, or 8 gore skirt, but is it possible to cut the made-for-straight-grain pieces on a bias? From what I understand, bias patterns are cut with less ease in the hip area. Any advice?

 

[goldwyn girl]

Did someone here make up this pattern. I have the paper pieces all cut out and it looks huge !!! Unfortunately mine is the size 18 so I need to reduce it some. I have no problem doing this with dresses etc but I have no idea about pants. All tips and experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks girls xxx

 

[BegintheBeguine]

Silver

Laura Chase, that's a beautiful 30s dress and you look lovely in it. Silver is my neutral especially with all shades of blue so I would wear silver shoes.(When I was at Lord & Taylor's last week they had a whole table of silver shoes on display so it seems I'm not the only one who thinks this way.) I hand sew all my zippers which I find much easier and better fitting than inserting a zipper by machine and it takes the same amount of time. Yes, steam it, I steam everthing and use my big ironing board to store boxes full of dishes! The steamer I use most is a travel one from the 70s but if you don't have one already new ones are reasonably priced.
Thanks for the name of the comic: as I was looking at it you know I said I've simply got to read this and I'm not a even big fan of comics.

 

[Miss 1929]

Beautiful shoes

I might forgive them soon, if the shoes are pretty enough. lol
Are these the ones?:

I think they'd be nice... Hmmm, difficult to say without trying them on. Maybe too heavy/clunky? Even though they are gorgeous!

texasgirl, I would love to see your the hooks and snaps on your dress, if you get around to photographing it. But I won't be touching it anytime soon, so no hurry.

So you gals reckon it's 30's? I'm not good enough to date it precisely, but I know some ladies here would be able to guess on a precise year.

But far too daytime for the dress. Those are SUMMER DAY SHOES. Do not wear them with that dress - and especially not after Labor Day or before Memorial Day, unless you live south of the Mason Dixon line! If you really want to be Golden Era about it.

You could also do plain navy suede pumps, that would be the most appropriate. Suede because with a crepe fabric, which is a dull texture, you don't want a shiny shoe. I know I sound picky, but this is what would be correct and also nice looking. And should not be too hard to find either. And you can wear them with other things besides that one dress.

The dress is fancy enough, the shoes don't have to be. A very common mistake (and one I was very guilty of in times gone by) in retro dressing is to try to match all the accessories to the outfit in theme. Let the beautiful bodice on that dress be the focal point with no distractions in fancy shoes, etc. And not a long string of pearls either - long strings are 20s, and this would look much better with a choker or slightly longer, above the neckline. A lomg string will fight with the dress.

Do I sound like a pill? I am just being specific...

 

[Miss 1929]

I'm starting on a SWAP (sewing with a plan) of sorts, and one of the pieces will be a skirt made out of printed rayon with the greatest print ever- black, periwinkle, fuschia colors, all cinderella-ish with pumpkins, coachmen, and ladies in rococo gowns! I'd like a bit of a 30s/40s vibe, and an actual waistband (not elastic). My dilemma is whether to make it a bias skirt or not.

The only bias skirt pattern I have is a 70s a-line one... same as this one. I'm not quite sure this is something that could pass as 30s/40s (though it might just be the tops obscuring the waistlines). I do have several 40s gored dress patterns I could modify into a 4,6, or 8 gore skirt, but is it possible to cut the made-for-straight-grain pieces on a bias? From what I understand, bias patterns are cut with less ease in the hip area. Any advice?

That sounds like fabulous fabric!
Better to do the 70s bias pattern than to try to make a straight pattern go bias. If you want it to be really pre-war looking, change the zipper to a snap closure (although zippers give a much smoother line, and they did have them in the 30s). And test it in muslin first of course.
Trying to make a straight pattern work on the bias often comes out weird. And here's another tip - sew all the long seams from the bottom of the skirt toward the top. There is something about the way the machine hooks the threads together that works better that way.

 

[mackenzie]

And here's another tip - sew all the long seams from the bottom of the skirt toward the top. There is something about the way the machine hooks the threads together that works better that way.

I always sew from the top to bottom. But I guess we can agree on sewing all long seems from the same direction. Don't make one from top- bottom and the next bottom- top. It is not going to hang nicely this way.

 

[Sunny]

I may cry!

I bought a new sewing machine - a Kenmore - from Sears. It's not a high model or high dollar machine by any means, but I figured it would do the job.

I know this isn't the sewing machines fault, but I want to throw it in Lake Michigan.

I don't know if it's the bobbin thread tension or the actual thread tension but I can't seem to get it working right. Everytime i sew a stich I'm left with a huge knot of thread on the underside (bottom/wrongside) of the fabric. So, surrounded by tiny cut threads and scrap fabrics, i'm begging for enlightenment!

because, referencing the photo that cannot be good.

I hope this helps, since although embarrassing, it's easy to fix.

I have a Kenmore as well. I still remember the time that my machine started doing the same thing. I couldn't get more than three stitches before getting a huge snarl, everything wrapped around the bobbin. I took the thing pretty far apart, cleaning and everything I could think of for at least 30 minutes. I finally figured out that the top thread had gotten partially undone; it wasn't hooked into the part that goes up and down. When I rethreaded it completely, hey presto! it worked!

I think rethreading the machine is kind of like restarting your computer. When things start to act weird, it's amazing how often that'll clear up the issue - and also amazing how often I keep banging my head on the machine and forget that simple step.

 

[Rachael]

Sunny, I had the exact same thing happen! The thread had simply come out of the uptake lever . Always start by re-threading the machine, it's cheaper than spending $100+ on a service call you don't need.

 

[anabolina]

I have noticed some of you have "dummies" for your sewing. I think this is what they are called but please correct me if I have the wrong name. I am speaking of the fake body manequin on which one puts her sewing creations.

Is this necessary if one wants to sew garments for herself? I have found a couple sites where people have made their own dummies with duck tape - has anyone tried this? If so, how has it worked?

Thanks!

My dummy(or dress form) is invaluable. It's adjustable, allows me to take pictures of creations without bothering random family members, helps me fit stuff, and has my name since its a Sally Stitch. I call it TAS though, The Other Sallie. I got it off Ebay for $50, but they often come up on Craigslist. I only got the dressform this summer and have been sewing for 2 years now and it's unbelievable how much it helps with sewing and fitting. Before, I would have to take my clothes off a lot while sewing to fit the garment and it was really annoying, now I just drop it on TAS. Awesome.

 

[Rachael]

speaking of dress forms, is there a thread about vintage forms? I have been trying to find images of older mannequins, to no avail. I very much like the french mannequins, but am not sure when they were first used. The ones I have are a metal frame, with the body panels of heavy cardboard covered with gray jersey, adjusted with wing nuts on the inside of the body. Of course, they are also tiny so I have to pad them to get my dress size (10-14 depending on the age or fit of the dress).

 

[Miss Neecerie]

not a huge thread...but

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=12961&highlight=dress+forms

 

[Sunny]

Sunny, I had the exact same thing happen! The thread had simply come out of the uptake lever . Always start by re-threading the machine, it's cheaper than spending $100+ on a service call you don't need.

Glad I'm not the only one who's dealt with this! At least I took it apart myself and didn't call anyone.

 

[Miss 1929]

It's hard.

That is soooo cute!! I finally learned how to read patterns :eusa_doh:
Is it hard to resize a pattern to make it bigger?

Just thought I would ask cause all the patterns I have are a size 10 or 12.. and in much bustier than those sizes..?

Probably the easiest way is to make a paper copy of your pattern (never do this with your only copy), take each piece and hold it up to you and check the length on each piece first - if length is OK go on to the width.
If it needs lengthening, cut cross the pattern piece horizontally in a place where it will not run into any structural stuff like darts, gathers, etc, spread, and tape on a piece of paper to fill the gap. If it needs shortening, slash and overlap. Very important to stay away from any markings, darts etc., and try not to do this so it intersects with the armhole.
So much for length. Now for width.
Same story, but because of the multiple curves of the body, each piece should be slashed and spread in more than one place - about a third in from each side.
Then, use this paper copy to make a muslin, baste and try on. It will still need adjusting, so probably you will want to fit and mark the muslin, use it to make another paper copy, and then make another muslin, fit, use for pattern, before attempting it on your ($) real fabric.
I had to do the reverse to take my blue suit pattern down two sizes, and it took a few weeks. So it is always better to start with a pattern in your own size - even that will need adjusting to be a perfect fit unless you're perfectly proportioned, which few people are.